Nissan 370Z Forum

Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   Nissan 370Z Warranty / Scheduled Maintenance / Servicing / Repairs (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-warranty-scheduled-maintenance-servicing-repairs/)
-   -   Need Help - Car Stalled and wont start (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-warranty-scheduled-maintenance-servicing-repairs/94531-need-help-car-stalled-wont-start.html)

Chuck33079 10-10-2014 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kholy (Post 2995927)
So my one concern is that Nissan told me my compression test came back and said i had 80lbs of compression and they told me i should be around 170. Would my motor have started if i was really at 80lbs of compression?

Maybe, maybe not. Did they also perform a leakdown test? If you've got a cylinder at 80lbs, you've got a dead motor unless they screwed up the test.

SouthArk370Z 10-10-2014 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kholy (Post 2995927)
So my one concern is that Nissan told me my compression test came back and said i had 80lbs of compression and they told me i should be around 170. Would my motor have started if i was really at 80lbs of compression?

Also, I was thinking of contacting the BBB.... suggestions? not really sure how the best way to go about this is. I also had a claim open with NNA so i could call them back as well.

I don't know what the compression specs are but they are in the FSM if you want to verify the 170 number.

IMNSO, you need to find a new shop. Good luck. I tried three Nissan dealers in S AR and N LA and none of them seemed to be able to work on a Z. :(

phunk 10-10-2014 01:34 PM

Replace the bad sensor and then confirm the car is otherwise OK. Perform your own compression test on the engine to see if what Nissan says is true.

If what they said is true, they probably did the compression test first and then decided to just tell you straight out that you need a new engine and didnt bother to diagnose why it doesnt run.

If what they said is false, then just pretend it never happened and/or call Nissan corporate and tell them how this dealer attempted to screw you into a new engine and you can probably get your $300 diagnostics back.

djlouedwards 10-10-2014 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk (Post 2996203)
Replace the bad sensor and then confirm the car is otherwise OK. Perform your own compression test on the engine to see if what Nissan says is true.

If what they said is true, they probably did the compression test first and then decided to just tell you straight out that you need a new engine and didnt bother to diagnose why it doesnt run.

If what they said is false, then just pretend it never happened and/or call Nissan corporate and tell them how this dealer attempted to screw you into a new engine and you can probably get your $300 diagnostics back.

:iagree:

Make sure the compression is right.

phunk 10-10-2014 04:09 PM

Oh and I forgot to answer your question, yes the engine will run and it will run just fine with 80psi compression. But it will be down on power and economy, and may burn oil. Each cylinder is tested individually. If only one cylinder tests so low, you might not even notice the loss in power during part throttle driving.

kholy 10-11-2014 02:46 PM

Update: new sensor installed and car does not start. Once sensor is disconnected car starts up fine again. Any ideas what else to check

kholy 10-11-2014 02:51 PM

Also it is throwing same error as before. P0340 - camshaft position sensor A
Circuit bank 1 or single sensor

Element600ee 10-11-2014 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kholy (Post 2995927)
So my one concern is that Nissan told me my compression test came back and said i had 80lbs of compression and they told me i should be around 170. Would my motor have started if i was really at 80lbs of compression?

Also, I was thinking of contacting the BBB.... suggestions? not really sure how the best way to go about this is. I also had a claim open with NNA so i could call them back as well.

with these motors its hard to perform a compression test because the throttle boddies need to be wide open to get a good reading and the way ours work there not until the car actually is runing they stay closed no matter what on start up then fully open and allow the cam actuators to control revs . the only way to get good accurate numbers on these cars is to leak down them ..

phunk 10-13-2014 11:37 AM

You will still get a usable compression test number. Or just simply unbolt the throttle bodies or remove the brake booster and EVAP vacuum lines so it can get at least some airflow in there.

BTW the throttle system is activated without the engine running if the car is in gear. I have never looked to see if it stays activated while cranking. 50/50 likeliness on that. But I think it does.

kholy 10-15-2014 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk (Post 2998289)
You will still get a usable compression test number. Or just simply unbolt the throttle bodies or remove the brake booster and EVAP vacuum lines so it can get at least some airflow in there.

BTW the throttle system is activated without the engine running if the car is in gear. I have never looked to see if it stays activated while cranking. 50/50 likeliness on that. But I think it does.

the car starts... so i am assuming i could do it that way.... it just doesn't rev past 3,500

car sounds 100% normal running no sounds or anything. But as soon as that sensor code is cleared the car shuts off

Joepro 10-15-2014 08:18 AM

Read up on the fsm....i think thy crank sensor can throw this code as well...my comp test was 210 avg when I was chasing my issue....could be a vtc hub issue/ cam chain...they are easily damaged from low oil.

kholy 11-07-2014 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joepro (Post 3000679)
Read up on the fsm....i think thy crank sensor can throw this code as well...my comp test was 210 avg when I was chasing my issue....could be a vtc hub issue/ cam chain...they are easily damaged from low oil.

Joe: I am not a gearhead here so I am having a hard time figuring out what i need to read up on.. unfortunately I have been out of the state for 3 weeks so i haven't had any time to work on this

I have also called and left my corp contact a message as i am not happy with my overall nissan experience. My local dealership stated to me that the motor was getting no spark and would not turn over at all no matter what they tried to do. The fact that some non nissan tech got it started in 5 minutes is whack. I really hope the rep calls me back today to discuss options

SouthArk370Z 11-07-2014 11:18 AM

FSM = Factory Service Manual. Contains diagnostic procedures and explanations of what the DTCs mean. See link in my sig.

Joepro 11-07-2014 12:02 PM

I think engine control is section 18? Do a control f abd search your dtc code and you will find the applicable dg flow charts. Don't exepect much from Nissan, you will talk to a case manager who knows nothing about cars... and unless nissan is different they cannot force the dealer to refund or do anything your best bet is the gm or dealer principal.

kholy 11-07-2014 01:59 PM

So if it were to be a VTC hub/chain issue is that something huge to replace? full motor replacement? what are we talking?

johnham 07-19-2015 08:47 AM

My car is having all of the symptoms your car had! What ended up being the problem?

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

brad1 07-20-2015 09:35 PM

Had exactly the same problem. The camshaft sprocket was out of position. When you disconnect the camshaft sensor it will start, but will run in "limp home" mode, max out arount 3,000 RPM. Camshaft sprockets cost about a grand a pop plus the labour, but it beats the hell out of replacing the whole engine. Make sure you test compression though. Chances are it was running low on oil that caused the problem in the first place and there may be other damage.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:38 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2