All of this happened without warning? Like gradually increased noise? I think it's bad luck or accidental overrev that would cause the noise to appear suddenly (i.e., something decided to give up out of the blue).

How does your engine idle? Did it increase or become inconsistent? If you get leaks or droplets, I'm pretty sure you'd smell something by now.

That noise is definitely scary. I realized the sound in the video I made were just ticking injectors. Phew! Yours is definitely different.

There were no prewarnings. No noises. Hell I even dynoed the car a couple weeks ago and it registered perfectly acceptable numbers. It could be a high rev that triggered it. I don't drive the car like a grandma and I certainly don't drive it like a pissed off teenager.

They said they'd look at mine today too. I hardly have any mods either. None that affect any of this, that's for sure.

this thread made me check my oil like 5x over the weekend. heck, i even checked it before heading into the office today!

Man I hear you. From now on forever I will check my oil a least a couple times a month, if not once a week, on every car I own from here out.

No check engine light, low oil or anything. I checked the oil temp on my drive home Thursday night and it was at normal range, engine temp was normal as well. I drive mine like a grandma since I'm commuting so far each day and even more so when I have snow rims/tires on which I have currently...some of the easiest 46k miles a car could possibly see :)

Need an answer quick guys if you can

Dealer said 2 MAF have issues; 1 is no signal, the other is very learn.

1375.00 for replacement

What is our emissions coverage for warranty?

THey are also going to put me on a consumption test as well

Sorry if this doesn't assist at all, but:

1. MAF sensors are NOT even close to that expensive
2. MAF sensors should not be your fault and should be covered by warranty
- its not your fault your MAF sensors failed.

I'm outside the 3 yr/36k miles on that part so it's no longer covered. He double checked and I found it as well on the nissan warranty information. Sucks that it's not covered but it is better than having to get a new engine. They're going to change the oil and put the tape on it for the oil consumption test so I'll be back within 2 weeks to have it checked.

$1375 is steep especially since it's right there and easy to access but it's cheaper than me having to trade it in to get a new car...but I have another 1k+ expense is tires coming up now too...

As my grandpa always says...it's always something


I found OEM MSRP pricing for a MAFS is 561...I can't imagine them spending that much per but if I were to buy myself I could get it like $450 so I guess it isn't absurd but still...it's a piece of plastic it looks like..

It's the sensor that reads air in your intakes. So they think your problem is going to be solved with a MAF replacement? I'm slightly under the impression that if your engine is clanking and knocking like mine then that is definitely not a fix for it. But you have a different situation than I do, you have oil. I had none whatsoever.

Yea, they said the check engine light was on (which it wasn't when I had it at home) so they were going to get that to go away and replace the senors. Hopefully that is the cure and no additional engine damage was caused. I'll be back within 2 weeks so if I have any issues I'll be sure to let them know. Mine didn't sound quite like yours...it probably sounded worse than it actually was though...kind of relieved now that it's not the block

Yeah but what I'm confused about is:

Ok so they replace the shortblock, is that the ONLY thing that needs replacing? It sounds everyone else noticed that their engine was eating oil BEFORE they ran out and started breaking stuff internally. I could be wrong but this is the impression that I'm getting. I believe that I'll have more than just the short block replaced. Though I would much rather that be the only thing that is messed up. And how long is this process supposed to take? I want my damn car back!

Well, if all mine is just the 2 MAFS and my oil changed and cap taped I should have it back today. I'm at work so my dad will go to pick it up for me...after 2 weeks if all is good w/ the oil level and no issues I'll order up my new tires for the Rays...not before then though

Before the oil change and discovering the shortage, there was noise? Then you changed the oil and noticed unusually high temps plus noise?

So before all of that, did you notice unusually high oil temps as well prior to refilling oil?

I'm thinking something decided to give up, and it's probably just bad luck :(

Can't wait to see them dissect the motor, though. If the block is still good you can probably salvage it.

Before the oil addition and discovering the shortage, there was the knocking and high oil temps. After 5 quarts of oil, there was still knocking, but I did not run the car long enough to examine anything because everyone on here was telling me to keep it off and have it towed, which I did. I'm willing to bet it would've ran lower though because there was actually oil in it. I'm wearing my lucky items just to make sure I'm going to be in luck when it comes to warranty. :tup:

Just checked the TSB and saw this:

APPLIED VEHICLES: 2009-2010 370Z (Z34)
APPLIED ENGINE: VQ37VHR
ONLY APPLIED VIN / DATE:
Vehicles built before: JN1AZ4FH(*)AM303670 / 05-Apr-2010
Vehicles built before: JN1AZ4EH(*)AM503778 / 05-Apr-2010
IF YOU CONFIRM
Engine oil level is low.
OR
There is unusual engine noise.

____________________________________

I see that the letters E and F are in bold. My VIN number also has MATCHING letters and numbers like the above VIN's mentioned, except for the last 6 numbers.

JN1AZ4EH



______________

Also just noticed that they replaced the Short Engine, which those suckers are sold for minimum $4000. Yikes! Part no. 10103-JL3MA

ALRIGHT ---------- HERE'S THE RUNDOWN

They have to basically take the motor apart. They said if there is any damage to the top block then the whole engine gets replaced. Even the slightest bit. If there is no damage to the top block then the short block gets replaced and I have to basically break in the motor like it was brand new. All covered under warranty no matter what. They said everything was clean and fine on my end and it was not my fault, which is true :)

So I'm hoping it's just the short block so it can be a relatively short process and I DO NOT have to deal with a diminished value of the car because of a new motor.

Told you guys Baker is great!

Well it's in their hands, but tbh if I had any sway and it were my car, I'd be gunning for the full engine replacement.

They're going to have to pull and re-install the whole engine either way, so any risks from that are common to both solutions (e.g. errors in the installation process). The VIN on the lower engine block is going to change either way, if it's the matching VINs you're worried about value-wise.

I'd rather have a whole new engine in that case than have them slap in a new shortblock + existing heads. You get newer everything for free, and less chance of some unseen fallout affecting the heads' longevity. How well do you trust that their mechanics would notice (or even be *able* to notice) some subtle problem that developed in the heads from running oil-free?

:iagree:

I understand where you're coming from. Either way I hope I don't get a new block or new engine that has less power than my current one. I've heard of some people with pretty low dyno numbers and that makes me a bit uneasy. Would be cool if I got a factory freak though. More importantly I want the car back with a well operating motor that doesn't eat oil in a relatively short period of time. Like by the end of this week.

They can probably do an whole-engine swap in a few days time given scheduling constraints, they dropped mine out in the past for a quick header installation with no problems. With the added complications, though, of inspecting the heads and waiting for major parts shipments (I imagine short blocks and whole engines aren't something they keep waiting on the back shelf at the dealership), I think it'd be wishful thinking to be back on the road in a week.

(And I wouldn't worry about the Dyno numbers. Factory freak-ness is never more than ~1%, the rest is just different dynos and different atmospheric conditions, or factors other than the engine (e.g. gearing, wheel size/weight, etc)).

I thought I heard incorrectly when I was on the phone with the service guy but he checked with the mechanic who was working on my car to confirm but they indicated that burning 1 quarter per 1000 miles is considered normal. Nissan has higher requirements of 2500-3000 miles to burn 1 quart...still I think that's pretty ridiculous...I'm at work so my dad is going to pick it up now but he's going to question that...seems a bit high, don't you guys think so?

Glad to hear they are taking care of you.
I would not worry about the extra time honestly, an extra week or so to get a full replacement is better than just doing a short block and then having more problems down the road.

I hear ya. As long as it's available for Nismo Fiesta! lol

so my Z has the date: 07/10 in the door and has the beginning VIN of JN1AZ4EH

does this mean i'm affected by the TSB?

If not you can always roll in an Altima, I hear they are the new in car. :ughdance:

It means that if this same exact thing were to happen to you then you would be covered if you're under 36,000 or have an extended warranty.

Good to hear their doing the right thing :tup:

Interesting thread. Since I just got my Z so I'll definitely keep my eye on the oil level. Anyone got a link to the TSB? If it was posted sorry I missed it.

I haven't had mine long enough to do the first oil change, but I do all my own work. I'm OCD so I keep all my receipts from oil changes as well as a maintenance log book in the car (helps with resale).

I see a lot of misconceptions in this thread as well revolving around warranty. Dealerships CAN NOT void your warranty for doing the work yourself unless they can prove you caused the problem. There are laws against this. The only way a dealer could have such a policy is if they provide free oil changes to their customers.

It's the same reason they can't force you to use their oil or filter.

To the OP, it wasn't the Mobil1 that was the issue. If you burned 5qts in 5,000 miles there was something major wrong going on.

Maybe these cars need a 5W40 or 10W40 weight oil.

Fixed. AND YOU CALL YOURSELF A MOD!

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk

:icon18:

Oh I definitely agree with the different weight oil. Hell we used 5W-30 in my Cobalt and that's a completely different car.

Well, my point was that manufacturers spec an oil, in part, to help with their EPA mileage requirements. You can find this as fact by looking at an oil spec for some cars in the USA vs. Europe. Same car, same engine, and completely different oil specs.

The 5W30 for the Z may be a result of an EPA mileage requirement when in actuality a 5W40 or 10W40 would actually work better for the motor.

I have no information to support that theory as of yet, just throwing it out there.

This is true for other Nissan's as well. I've seen tons of people put thicker oils in 240's.

The factory freak is a myth -- here's the kernel of truth (at least to the best of my knowledge): Older GM cars occasionally had a different cam put in on the assembly line when designated cams were short on supply, and because so many parts were interchangeable. If the different cam happened to have a wilder profile, you lucked out with a more powerful engine.

Oil weight varies quite a bit, especially on the internal tolerances of the rotating assembly. All modern engines found in new cars are built with tight tolerances so as to help with longevity and reliability. I don't see a need to add thicker engine oil to a car that is only 3 years old unless it has very high miles and or the motor has been rebuilt.

Lets not turn this into another Oil thread.

Stick to the topic, And if this can't be done? I'll just Close it.

Thanks

Well this makes sense as to how I was introduced into factory freaks, first new car was a GM. I had a Chevy Cobalt SS for 5 years and we saw some that would come 185whp from the factory and some up to 235whp, the Supercharged version (2005-2007). Nobody saw any factory freaks out of the turbocharged version (2008-2010).

Yeah my reference to the ~1% or less factor is that there probably are factory variances in tolerances and adjustments. It's just not enough to matter enough to care about.