GBHRPS,

This forum wants a URL for the photo which I provided but let me try again.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AnkN40NPs47-gahoT3-R4Ey3eYaEug

Same issue that I had
 

As posted earlier in this thread. So far still Ok. It's been 5 years with fingers crossed :driving:

You can see my post pictures at: http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-r...ml#post3329785

Found the broken wires
 

Thanks to the guidance of Top Hydraulics and many posters here, my mechanic was able to isolate the culprit – see pix. Pinched wires causing a short. The wires are located on the driver’s side and attached to the hinge / arm bracket that lifts the rear cover. They run to the 5th bow lock attached to the cover. You have to remove the protective sleeve to expose the wires. They pinch just below the little black casing that holds the wires to the arm. 10 cents of electrical tape = problem solved. No thanks to my Nissan dealership and they’re “replace the whole roof solution”. I’ll never go back there again. Pain in the *** and poor design flaw but easily fixed. Big props to Top Hydraulics and this forum

dtman and Cryogenius,

Guys! Thanks for posting the pictures. I can't tell you how much that is going to help people out.

Watching this Roadster section of the forum since 2017 I been able to piece together from many sources that MOST of the top issues out there are about the top striking the storage compartment door (the other way around) on opening (new bungee cord design seems to solve that issue so far), and top inoperable due to pinched broken wires somewhere on the driver's side harness at the hinge.

But NOW ... everyone knows where to start looking for the broken wires due to your help, and Top Hydraulics with Karl in Oregon and his top repair videos on YouTube.

I'm going to open my top part way shortly (still in the 40 degree range here) and check that section of the harness to see if its folding underneath a hinge or an arm that might be pinching it. Perhaps using some tape or such could pull it slightly in another direction out of harms way. I'll have to see and report back.

The more we know .... the better to make the repairs ourselves and save big dollars.

Gene

GREAT JOB - Fixing & Posting This Top Wire Fix - :bowrofl:
One Question - At What Point OR How Do You Insert The 2 X 4 Support
Obviously It Must Be Needed To Keep The Top In That Position
Please Explain That Important Step - THANKS - :tiphat:

The location where mine pinched is just below the black plastic case that holds the wires to the lift arm. The up / down action with flexing wires attached to an immoveable bracket is where the problem arises. We just detached it from the bracket rewrapped it and let it move freely with only the hydraulic line left in the bracket. Still keeping an eye on it for issues.

As for the 2x4 – once the lid is open, I just stuck it in to hold it open and allow more space to work.

The hardest part of the whole job is removing the 5th bow lock if your system won’t open. Top Hydraulics show how to do that in their videos.

Best of luck everyone.

Dear 370Z forum members,
Just a short message from France to thank you for all your informations and pictures helping me to solve my roadster roof problem (stop half way !). Nissan was only able to give me DTC code B177D meaning "open sensor failure" and impossible to solve a "simple problem" except by changing all the roof system for more than 20K€. Finally, with the help of Klaus and videos from TOP HYDRAULICS, i decided to change myself the 2 main lift cylinders (little oil leak) and also discover a non visible cut wire (green wire "open sensor"). After reconnection of the green wire, my roof now perfectly work and stronger with the excellent cylinders from TOP HYDRAULICS. Picture attached show you exactly where was the "cut wire". Finally, this "big problem" for Nissan was not so difficult to solve ... and hope it will help you if needed.

I wish the top on our 370z is a simple one like the Boxter, just fold into the compartment, no lid no complicate hinges and actions..

I saw the post from mikeshay, and I have the exact same issue with mine, both sides :icon14:

I did a search for couple months and found some other roadster owners have the same issue.

The problem is, Nissan doesn't make or sell those parts, (I'll tell you why later in this post)

So I am stuck, too.

Went to a shop and originally I was thinking have them remove the top and remove the part, then bring the part to a machine shop to see if they can machine a replacement.

However, thinking the cost and possibility, remove the top, take it apart, and if someone can machine the part, without knowing too much details about the size/shape/ material of the part, is pretty risky, since it might end up someone unable to machine the part.

On the other hand, even if someone can machine the part, there's no guarantee how good the top will perform or last after taking it apart and put it back together and you know, the Z top is an "unique" piece.


Eventually, not wanting to pay CAD$20k+, so...


Look up eBBay or whatever places/website they have a salvaged 370z roadster, just buy the whole top from them, cost is anywhere $3k - $5k.

Have a shop to swap the top, done!

That's what I did to mine, and it works perfectly now, plus, I have an extra set of pump, ECU and 20 hydraulics sitting in my basement just in case.


Just a note for those who run into the same problem in the future, don't pay $20k to Nissan.

My shop lube all the hinges on the replacement top, thus it works quiet and smooth now.

so I take a closer look on the old top, and realize the broken bracket is actually a big piece of cast metal, and the shape is impossible for a shop to duplicate.

The broken piece that disclose under the canvas, is only a small bit of the whole.

The bracket actually extended to as part of the pillar behind the window.

Size is big and the shape is awkward.

No wonder Nissan doesn't sell the part because it's very difficult to remove it from the frame.

And Nissan/Magma, design this part to be this delicate.... :ugh2:

Top won't close
 

Top opened okay but now won't close. I hear the relay pick up and the pump motor run for a bit. Not sure it is related but about a week ago the driver side door would not unlock until I put the top up. I will check the wiring once I get it open as well as fuses. The car is driven about 5 times a week. 51K on it garaged. I am electrically/ somewhat mechanically versed. Anything I can check on my own. I will check the wiring at the week point. Any help is appreciated.

does the front latch ?

yes it does.. Once the top moves it acts like normal.. plan ti checking the wiring today. any other suggestions is appreciated.. my local nissan dealer is worthless

yes it does.. Once the top moves it acts like normal.. plan ti checking the wiring today. any other suggestions is appreciated.. my local nissan dealer is worthless

UPDATE. I fixed the wiring harness on the arm it was not in great shape. But now the top will either go up or down. what was interested when I took the connector that holds the hydraulic lines all pressure was released.. I see no leaks on it. Was wondering how to check the fluid on the hydraulic system? what else can I check/do? thanks

marksta,

You may not get an answer here because so few Roadster owners are wrenchers who are willing to tackle an issue like yours. So, contact Klaus at TopHydraulics.com.
Top Hydraulics, Inc
3235 Pacific View Drive
Florence, Oregon 97439
USA

541-902-3214

info@tophydraulics.com

Be sure to fully describe your issue, as these guys are the only true experts at repairing the problems with 370z tops. Watch their YouTube videos on 370z Roadster top fixes and you'll see what I mean.

Give them a call or an email.

Gene

Will do.. Look at again last time today than I will give them a call.. Appreciate your response

similar thing happened to mine couple years ago, yhe top can open no problem at all.

only when it is closing, the front latch onto the windshield frame no problem but cannot complete the latching at the back.

found the it's the faulty sensor at the top-storage.

FIXED. Thanks to Top Hydraulics for their advice to reset the system AFTER I repaired the wire harness going to the hatch assembly. They told me to remove the common from the battery for 2 hours, cycle the windows than try the top- it worked!!!

I'm having the same issue, the hydraulic pump was recently replaced I've also tried disconnecting the battery. The rear bow will not engage. Top Hydraulics is also helping me trouble shoot this issue.

Check the hydraulic fluid level. Check for hydraulic leaks. If the fluid level is low or if there is air in the system it won't work completely. Klaus at Top Hydraulics told me the system is self-bleeding, which means it will bleed any air in the system automatically, but if there's not enough fluid in the system (from a fluid leak) it will only go so far then quit. I accidentally nicked a hydraulic line causing a leak. The top would only go so far then quit. I replaced the lines and filled it with new fluid. It works now.

Hello gang, I am back at it with a new set of symptoms on my 2010 roadstar. Here are the details:

1) Soft top has been in storage (top down, or open) for about a month. I start engine, no warning lights and all seems good until...
2) I hit the CLOSE button. The storage lid opens about an inch and gives up. Roof open light stays on. The lid drops back down due to gravity but the light stays on.
3) I hit the OPEN button. The motors turn and the lid closes completely. Roof open light goes out and all seems good.
4) I repeat the process again with the same results.
5) I manually raise the roof halfway, start the car and hit the CLOSE button. The soft top closes and latches as it should, and the roof open light goes out - no warnings.

I have not tried to open and close the top again. I do notice that the soft top is hitting and pulling down the storage compartment cover when it opens - which I believe is a sign of weak bungees. I have heard of the top not opening when the bungees are weak, but have not found anyone with difficulties getting the top to close.

I saw no sign of hydraulic fluid leaks in the storage compartment.

Question: Would weak bungees cause the top to rise only an inch or two and then give up? Has anyone else experienced this problem and solved it with new bungees. I need to replace them anyway, but I still wonder if that is the problem. I think I am good on the electrical because the top can be hydraulically latched open or closed without roof open warning lights at the end of travel.

More on Bungees
 

I am trying to replace the fifth bow bungees, and this is a story unto itself.

Part numbers 971F8-1ET0A and 971F9-1ET0A for the bungees on each side is discontinued and replaced by the 971F8-1ET0B kit. However, the 971F8-1ET0B kit is discontinued and replaced by the 971F6-1ET0A kit. That is available by special order from my dealer parts (delivery in one day) for $233.

The same part seems to be available on [URL="https://frsport.com/search?q=971F6-1ET0A"] for $157 plus shipping(?). Anyway, the soft top bungee saga continues.

I've read through each post/comment ... still need help!
 

Brought my Z to a few shops now "pro's & Nissan master techs).
Now that the open/close button has power again my top will open (I have the use the tool to unlatch it from the windshield manually) the top will open all the way and BEEP once done.

However, when I press the button to close the top, it closes all the way, locks in the back, but it does not beep. The second that I let go of the button the top unlocks just in the front and pops back up immediately. I then will have to shut off the car and use the tool to close/lock it to the front.

*If you have an idea on how to reattach the defrost wire to the rear window that would also be great!

Thank you in advance ...

Update on soft top malfunction
 

Update: I went through the sensor diagnostic procedure given by Top Hydraulics on their YouTube video, and found that once again I had a broken wire which I had previously repaired. Symptoms different this time, but it was the number 76 connection again (5th bow striker sensor). Top now works but I still may take on the bungee replacement as a preemptive measure.

Update No. 2: Started the bungee replacement procedure but chickened out when I got to the "cut old bungee cords out" step. They all seemed to be in good enough condition and there was no way to recover once they were cut other than to muddle through the remaining 5 or 6 hours of work (per SIDE) if I could even figure it all out. I put it back together and the top would not open because the fifth bow was hitting the back lip of the storage compartment. It looked as though the lid was about 1/4 - 1/2 inch proud of the compartment edge and therefore would not go in. I did more research and found that there is a known problem of a pin coming out of a drag link channel, and the channel needs to be opened back up (NTB14-064). This took about 3 minutes to accomplish once I saw that this was indeed the problem on both sides (note: 3 minutes does not include the manual opening of the soft top because I had already done that). Hint: I used a large screwdriver with a square shaft and put vise-grips on the shaft for more torque. Be careful! The metal you are bending is relatively soft and does not need THAT much encouragement. Top now working again. Here is the file on the Nissan Technical Service Bulletin, and a illustration that I did showing before and after.

https://f01.justanswer.com/05muranos...4-064_370z.pdf
https://flic.kr/p/2kSmzWD

Please provide additional info...
 

How to reset the system?
* I've removed the common from the battery for 2+ hours ...
Cycle the windows ... do you mean to hold the window up switch to set them?

Thanks in advance

I just want to thank everyone who posted on this topic. Our 2016 370z soft top has had a couple of issues. After researching and reading all these posts we have found our issues. I've installed the 5th bow kit and now just this weekend found the broken wires. all is good now. I also bought a Mucar DTC reader. It read all the cars modules and provided me with exact fault codes for my cars top. I highly recommend it for it was only $50, and it works from my iPhone. Also want to thank the individual who led me to the manual. It was for a 2009 but it seems the top has not changed on my 2016.

Totally agree Jill, this forum is brilliant for identifying problems and getting your car fixed without wasting time and money at Nissan etc, esp when it comes to our roofs as unfortunately, they don’t understand them very well, don’t sell parts for them so for any issue they simply quote you a new roof for $15k or some ridiculous price. The forum has helped me many times so I always try and post any usual/helpful info that I come across and of course encourage everyone else to continuing doing so.
It would appear that about 90% all top not working issues are those damn wires held in by that plastic housing that's attached to the deck lid arm. I was aware of the problem when my top stopped half way when opening just before Christmas. I went straight to wires where they bend 90 deg below the bracket and sure enough had the pinched wires. I ended up replacing about 6 inchs of all the wires as while only two were broken they all were very hard and brittle due to the constant bending.
The other good tip is to not put them back into the black plastic housing as the issue will just happen all over again. I just attached mine quit loosely to the arm with Panduit/cable straps.That way they can just move freely, kind of fall naturally and not kink. I even left the hyd lines out a swell as these can also wear due to their very thin walls. Tophydraulics can sell better quality ones if required.

Mine is the same. It opens about a foot and stops. I give it a little love tap, and it opens all the way. The metal cover on mine opens, but it seems to stick a bit first.

[QUOTE=alcheng;3316273]
To some of you who wants to get rid of that warning light and buzz, here's the solution:
open the battery cover under the hood, there's a small fuse box in front of the battery, on the cover there's the diagram telling you which fuse is for which component, there's two fuses for the roof, one is a big one with a 40A and there's another small one in 15A, I remember it's the 2nd one to the right on the top row.
You can remove that 15A fuse, the warning light will turn off and no more buzzing, so you can drive in peace.



What happens if you remove the 40A "Big" fuse - Obviously the roof will be disabled - Besides that will the roadster function "Normally"? :confused:

I already "Pulled" my steering lock fuse and I'm glad I did :tup: