Seems to me if you get it from Nissan you will have the same thing you have now. Not a good thing at that price.

From the sound of things Top Hydraulics will rebuild the cylinders with better seals. If it were mine I'd send them to TH and rebuild it with better than new, probably one or two at a time until they're all done.

As always YMMV and all that.

Hey guys,

readed the whole topic and have a problm as well. At the beginning there was no trouble to open the roof but sometimes during closing is stucks befor the back has starts to get closed (see video)
https://streamable.com/4h1id

But when i supported the roof at this point by hands it worked. Then sometimes the same happend during opening. Now the roof is not coming out more then 20 cm of the box then it falls back. After 2-3 seconds i can try it again but still the same. The pump is working until this moment and more or less operating fine.
I‘ve tried to block the roof befor the issue to check if there is a problem with the weight but its working fine as long as i hold it. But when i release its still just going to the same point.

I hope someone can help me.
Best regards from germany

We found out that it was a wire from the upper left sensor.

Any chance you could tell us more about how you found this out? Thanks

Glad you got it solved.

KenB,

There are 8 small hydraulic rams in the top mechanism. Each one has a sail switch (read position switch) at its two positions, fully extended and fulled retracted. They tell the top computer when the ram has reached either end of its travel, the computer reads the info, and then starts its next part of the open/close operation.

In K4mik4ze's case, they discovered a broken/frayed wire at one of the sensor connections on the ram and corrected it.

Sadly, if the sensor had been at fault and needed replacing, since Nissan does not sell rams or sail switches as individual parts ... the only solution would have been to replace the entire top mechanism, .... to the tune of upwards of $12 000 dollars.

Its crazy expensive, but it makes more sense from Nissan's point of view to replace an entire top, motor, computer, cloth, frame and hydraulic system as a one piece item, to ensure a one time fix with no call backs. Its sort of like ... they'll replace a sticking brake caliper with a new one, rather than take the old on apart, clean it up, lube it, install new seals and reinstall it.

They make more money on the parts, hopefully spend less time on labour, and should have less call backs and complaints.

Sad but true...

We checked the power on each line (at the plug) and on the left there was nothing. Then we replaced the Wire. Is not so hard, but you need support and maybe 2 hours to fix it. Usually the sensors does not fault because is a pretty simple one.

Basically there is 12V on the line, when the system faults, then there is still a 2-3 Volt check signal. Hope it helps. In the most cases it´s a part of the harness.

I would say there is a pretty simple way to check if its a mechanical or electrical fault.
When the system has a failure, the roof is absolutely not operating.
That means, there is no signal when you pushing the button etc.
Thats also the reason why i was so sure to check the electronic first.
Because at the beginning of the problem i started to disconnect single sensors,
and the symptom was exactly the same like after my broke wire.

Maybe it´s a safety feature of the ECU to stop everything until every of the wires gives a 12V signal back.
So if the roof it´s operating just at the beginnen or something else it could be that the wire has connection in this position but loses it during the movement. Good way to check this, put the root manually to the service position and look if you get a feedback when you pushing the button.

I hope it helped a bit, good luck!

Appreciate the details. This may help someone if a problem pops up

Thanks,

Spoiler

k4mik4ze,

Thank you for the follow up! Its going to help someone. maybe even me, down the road.

Not every fix is $12 000.

k4mik4ze,
Thanks for the details. It's a good bet to test for a wire fault. Even in my case when the roof did not respond at all to the start button it turned out to be a shorted wire near the cover hinge.

Wow, in reading this I am wondering if that is what is my problem with my top no longer working. Thank you for this information and will have a friend who is a car expert read this.

If not viewed already, I posted a few pics of the trouble area and fix earlier in this thread. Good luck. Keep us posted on your findings. Thanks.:tup:

So, the wiring harness to operate the soft top failed on Thursday. Was driving around with the top down but thankfully it did not rain. Took it to the dealership. After 3 hours of diagnosis, 1 hour to fix the wiring and about $50 for 3 wires and a wiring sleeve the cost was just under $600 CAD. I'm just glad it was a wiring issue and not a cylinder issue. :ugh2:

My problem was the exact same problem as yours and in the same exact location, the driver's side wiring. :tup:

Joining the broken roof club!
 

Roof failed on our 2010 370 Z Roadster (57k) this weekend. Checked the usual suspects: battery, fuses, truck closed - so will take a look at the wiring harness for breaks and insulation cracks. Really not happy as the extended warranty just ended!

Any advice/coaching welcome, as well as any recommendations for a good alround mechanic to help in South Orange County.

When you say it failed, what exactly happened? Roof is closed and wont open, roof is open and wont close, roof partially opened or closed and just stopped?

By failed I mean - roof is down and wont go up - metal cover opens, but roof does not even attempt to come out of housing.

Is there a switch that tells the car that the cover is open? If so, that's the first thing I'd check.

What Southark said. Id also try to give it a little yank while someone actuates the roof switch. Could just be as simple as tight/rusted hinges on the top.

Thanks for the suggestions guys - will give it a shot

Scottish

Just is case you haven't looked here, it might help https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/2010/RF.pdf


Dan

Update
 

Well, after a couple of months of playing around and getting very educated about this problem, I still have an electric/power roof that doesnt work! As well as the associated problems of the visible and audible warning light/buzzer, and the electric trunk release not working (all because the CPU thinks the roof is in mid cycle).

I took it to a local convertible specialist who looked at a few items and ended up taking it into Nissan for a CPU diagnostic (costs ~$250 FYI). The diagnosis from Nissan (dealer) was an error at the "5th bow assembly". Nothing mechanical, but either a broken wire in the harness somewhere, or a problem with the CPU itself. Either way, the recommendation from Nissan was a complete replacement roof kit (roof, harness, hydraulics, CPU, etc). Estimate was for $15,850 plus $1,200 labor. Needless to say I am not spending $18k on a 2010 car!

Nissan USA were particularly useless when I raised this with them and basically said: out of warranty, tough luck. Did a little research on this one and apparently this is a known problem with 370Z cars with Nissan with apparently around 600 cases in the past 5 years. And apparently very few people go with the Nissan suggested $18k repair, not surprisingly.

Really not happy about the situation, at all!

PS - there are manual processes to: 1) open the trunk from inside the car using a key (behind the passenger seat); 2) open the hood manually using the cable release in the trunk and a socket set to release the roof up by the rear view mirror - this method is recommended by Nissan only for emergencies to open of close the roof in the event of electrical failure, but what the hell - I now have a Wrangler with a manual lift off roof and a 370Z with the same!

Estimate
 

Adding estimate from Nissan

scottishpaul,

Provided the Nissan dealer's diagnosis is correct, half of your battle is already over from what I can see. The 5th bow is the rear most one below the rear windshield, and they're saying that where that 5th bow hinges and swings up to allow the top storage lid to open, there most likely is a break in the wiring harness.

It is a common fault in ALL convertibles from ALL manufacturers that are opened by hydraulics or electric motors. The wiring at the bow hinge points gets flexed and bent every time the top goes up or down. Eventually the flexed wires will break, and the top stops working.

OldGuyFla gave you a link to the factory service manual section for the Z, download it, read it, study it, and you'll get an understanding of the system ... and know where to look for the wire breaks. It should be a very simple repair once you've located it. Use the same type and size of muti-strand wire and lengthen the broken section a bit, and you most likely have a fix.

And if you're not a DIYer, you live in California convertble country and there will be a 1000 specialist shops that can trace down and fix your issue, particularly if you arm them with a copy of the FSM section (factory service manual) OldGuyFla gave you a link to. Just check around and find a good one that has worked on Z's before.

And should your issue be hydraulic, Top Hydraulics in Oregon can remanufacture your failed rams, lines, or hydraulic pump for a lot less than Nissan wants.

There are lots of threads in this forum on just this top issue. Do some homework, educate yourself, and you'll be armed towards getting your top fixed for a lot less than Nissan has quoted. Good Luck!

Gene

Might consider the "Hard Top Option"

Scottish Paul- Before giving a dime to the stealership go talk to Eric at "The Prestige Companies" in Anaheim. He is a top notch pro and has diagnosed/repaired issues with our tops on several occasions.

Tell him Tyler from Best Coast Auto sent you!!

Good to know about this place. Close to me to boot! :tup:

2010 Roadster with 91K
 

Hi Everyone, I'm new to the forum and really need to tap into your collective body of knowledge and trouble shooting skills: The day before yesterday, I had the top down in the daytime with temperatures in the mid-forties. Came back from running errands, pulled in the driveway, hit the top button and nothing no warning lights, etc. Does the top system have fuses in the fuse box and could just have been the cold weather only since temps have drop this week. It has worked okay all through summer and fall until two days ago. Thanks in advance!

okie.marv,

Two things:

The owner's manual says to not operate the roof if the temperature is below 40 degrees F, mainly because the hydraulic oil would be too thick at that temperature to operate the pump and top rams without doing damage.

The other one that the trunk MUST be latched down correctly for the top to operate.

If those two parameters are met, the top should operate correctly, provided that you don't have any other issue.

The age of your car would make me guess that you have a broken wire in the wiring harness where the convertible top frame hinge areas are. Years of flexing may have broken one or more of the thin wires, particularly if the wires were cold.

Get back to us if you can't solve the issue. Good Luck!

Were both windows rolled down when you tried to put the top back up? If so, roll the windows up. It doesnt have to be all the up nor both windows, just one window partially up is fine.
Ive had this happen to me before. It happened both opening and closing the top. It might be a window reset issue.

Dear Bunk -- You just made my day! Rolled the windows back up and hit the close button and it worked like Perfectly. Thank you for taking the time as well as other members who contributed.

What??????!!!!!!!! That makes no sense whatsoever!

When the top is up, and the windows are closed, ..... the first thing that occurrs when you press the button to open the roof, is the windows power down! So why would your car have to have one window partially or all of the way up in order to get the system to close the top????!!!!

Baffling!!! But if it works ... why not?

Strange!

Right, Im assuming that the top system isnt detecting the windows rolling down, so it does nothing, if in fact the windows are all the way down.

..rolling the windows up gives what ever sensors involved something to do so it goes with the whole sequence...
I havent had time to really troubleshoot it. Ive been just living with making sure the windows are at least partially up before opening or closing the top. Like I said, it could just be a window reset, or a sensor. I havent looked at the schematics so I dont know how the top works..... yet..

Im glad it worked for you! Im sure theres still an underlying issue. Ill find some time to troublshoot it one of these days. If you find the issue before anyone else, feel free to post it! :tiphat:

Nice work Bunk...Glad Marv’s top is working again..

Kudos

-Spoiler

FYI, I did a window reset. Top opens and closes fine with the windows rolled down.

Drives: 2010 370z roadster
Rep Power: 1
mikeshay is on a distinguished road
Default
I have a 2010 I bought new , never had any top problems until late last summer the lid hit the roof bow a couple times then one time I heard a loud snap roof wouldn't close, ran it to the dealer , one of the frame brackets had broke free, no fix 12gran for a new roof, 3rd one they had seen like that last summer all 2010s now I have a convertible that is totally useless looks like I'm going to get a hardtop for it cars not worth putting 12g into plus labour to install it

Soft Top DIY Repair Success
 

I had the usual symptom of a light on the dash and alarm when trying to drive.

One great resource I found on trying to solve this problem is on YouTube. TopHydraulics has made 10 videos explaining every component in the system and how to access them for maintenance. With this information and a shop manual you can, with patience and a pure mind, figure out what is wrong. If the problem is with the hydraulics, TopHydraulics can sell you a better and cheaper component than the dealer.

In my case, following the procedure of TopHydraulics Chapter 9, I was measuring 0.8 volts or 3.0 volts on all of the sensors (all voltages are based on roof position) and they were all correct, with one exception. That exception was the 5th bow striker sensor that was measuring only 0.1 volt. Note: there is a metal bracket that holds the control unit and I had to pull the unit out of that bracket to make the measurements. The unit just slides into the bracket without fasteners and with the right motion you can pull it out with all the wires attached for easier access.

Elsewhere in this discussion there is a photo of the wire harness that runs back to the storage lid where the sensor is located. It is on the driver's side and it is in contact with the 5th bow by (bad?) design. This is where my problem was and based on my reading it is a common problem. Within the wiring harness the wire had either fatigued or been abraded by the mechanism. Strangely enough I had measured a voltage reading but the wire broke completely as I was unwrapping it.

I really had to unwrap a lot of the harness to get to the problem, so I recommend perseverance on examination of the harness. Klaus asked me if I had actually unwrapped enough of the harness and it is a good thing he did.

I have included a photo of my re-wrapped harness for reference. I spliced in a wire and used heat shrink wrap followed by electrical tape. For the wire I used to do the splicing I tried to find a wire with the same copper and flexibility to avoid stress concentration where the two wires meet; if one wire is stiffer then the softer wire will eventually fatigue. I did solder the connection, so maybe I created a stress problem for myself. If this fails again I may try a connector.

The next time this happens I will just check the harness - this is relatively easy. Only if I see nothing will I get into the sensor voltage measurements.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AnkN40NPs47-gahn..._3MtQ?e=pRb9Bo

Cryogenius,

Thanks for the update!

Great to know that Klaus's videos are getting results, and that there are some of us with enough automotive/electrical DIY knowledge, who are able to tackle these top issues and then help the rest of us out.

Can you share that picture with us and then point out where the wiring fatigue break was? It'll certainly help someone here to see where they need to start digging if they have a similar situation as yours.

Thanks!

Gene