anyone know any dealler in WA area please recomend me for good price

ilostmypill · 08-27-2010, 03:09 PM

anyone please recomend me a good dealler in seattle area for good price>
thanks

tjlazer · 08-27-2010, 04:39 PM

Puyallup Nissan is your best bet. I got mine at Larson of Fife and they were ok, but was not overly happy with my experience. I did talk them down a lot on my 09 when I bought it in Jan of this year though!

azn370z · 08-27-2010, 04:57 PM

Why don't you try emailing a dealer, simple as that.

daleks · 08-27-2010, 05:33 PM

All dealerships are the same. The best way to get a "good price" is to find a dealer with the car you want on the lot. Look up the invoice price on KBB or cars.com for your zip code ahead of time. Show up and represent yourself as a serious buyer (aka look like an adult), and then stick to what you want to offer and don't budge a penny.

Let them start talking numbers first to you and just go after their line items. You don't want roadside assistance, nitrogen filled tires, prepaid dent removal service, extra clear coat, etc. When I bought my Toyota the dealer had a line item for "refunding" me half of the holdback (percentage of sale manufacturer pays to dealership in the form of a rebate). It's all BS. Just focus the final number in terms of invoice (including destination) + dealer profit + TTL (tax, title, license). You want to whittle away at the dealer profit section since the other items are fixed.

If you're financing the finance manager will try to make you feel like an idiot for not signing up for the extended service warranty. I strongly feel these are unnecessary and be consistent in saying you're not interested should you not wish to have one. You need to make up your mind on this BEFORE going to the dealership though. The finance manager will also tack on a silent $150 document fee. You can negotiate that one away. There is a B&O fee too that we pay since we're in Washington state, but it's nominal (<$50).

If they are rude or challenge you to explain yourself, then tell them you want look at other dealerships. It's not like Nissan dealerships are rare. The mental part of the game is they try to make it seem like they're doing you a favor, but in reality it's the other way around. Always be polite, but get everything in writing (invoice for deposit and downpayment), and don't take any sh*t from anyone.

One more thing is if you're doing a trade they won't offer you much. Trades generally work by them calling around for a buy bid on your old car. The offers are rarely that good, and then you have another factor to consider in whittling away at the dealer profit since it now includes the amount they can make off of your trade. Plus, at some point they'll ask you for your keys while you're sitting down talking to someone else. It's generally to go check the odometer and do a quick check on the car, but they never bring the keys right back. It's a mental thing to make it feel like they already "have" your car. My point being is to never give them your keys until the deal is in writing and when they inspect the car just walk over there with them.

Have fun.

ilostmypill · 08-27-2010, 07:44 PM

thanks guys

Nikon FM · 08-27-2010, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daleks

All dealerships are the same. The best way to get a "good price" is to find a dealer with the car you want on the lot. Look up the invoice price on KBB or cars.com for your zip code ahead of time. Show up and represent yourself as a serious buyer (aka look like an adult), and then stick to what you want to offer and don't budge a penny.

Let them start talking numbers first to you and just go after their line items. You don't want roadside assistance, nitrogen filled tires, prepaid dent removal service, extra clear coat, etc. When I bought my Toyota the dealer had a line item for "refunding" me half of the holdback (percentage of sale manufacturer pays to dealership in the form of a rebate). It's all BS. Just focus the final number in terms of invoice (including destination) + dealer profit + TTL (tax, title, license). You want to whittle away at the dealer profit section since the other items are fixed.

If you're financing the finance manager will try to make you feel like an idiot for not signing up for the extended service warranty. I strongly feel these are unnecessary and be consistent in saying you're not interested should you not wish to have one. You need to make up your mind on this BEFORE going to the dealership though. The finance manager will also tack on a silent $150 document fee. You can negotiate that one away. There is a B&O fee too that we pay since we're in Washington state, but it's nominal (<$50).

If they are rude or challenge you to explain yourself, then tell them you want look at other dealerships. It's not like Nissan dealerships are rare. The mental part of the game is they try to make it seem like they're doing you a favor, but in reality it's the other way around. Always be polite, but get everything in writing (invoice for deposit and downpayment), and don't take any sh*t from anyone.

One more thing is if you're doing a trade they won't offer you much. Trades generally work by them calling around for a buy bid on your old car. The offers are rarely that good, and then you have another factor to consider in whittling away at the dealer profit since it now includes the amount they can make off of your trade. Plus, at some point they'll ask you for your keys while you're sitting down talking to someone else. It's generally to go check the odometer and do a quick check on the car, but they never bring the keys right back. It's a mental thing to make it feel like they already "have" your car. My point being is to never give them your keys until the deal is in writing and when they inspect the car just walk over there with them.

Have fun.

I love it! I hoped you exercised that goodness during your purchase. After reading the online chatter I have not even bothered to go on their lot.

Spec Jay · 08-27-2010, 10:43 PM

Advantage Nissan!
I have bought 2 of my cars there always great people and a mod friendly service side too!
I usually stop by and BS once a week or so and if i remember right there were 7 z's that just came off the truck
I can hook you up with my sales guy, very relaxed and zero bs. PM me if you want.

08-27-2010, 03:09 PM	#1 (permalink)
ilostmypill Base Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: vancouver Posts: 162 Drives: 2010 40th Rep Power: 14	anyone know any dealler in WA area please recomend me for good price anyone please recomend me a good dealler in seattle area for good price> thanks

08-27-2010, 04:39 PM	#2 (permalink)
tjlazer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tacoma Age: 52 Posts: 2,496 Drives: Z34, R35 Rep Power: 19	Puyallup Nissan is your best bet. I got mine at Larson of Fife and they were ok, but was not overly happy with my experience. I did talk them down a lot on my 09 when I bought it in Jan of this year though! __________________ 2009 370Z Monterey Blue,Nismo Conversion,RE-11's, K&N Typhoon intakes,Blue Kickplates,Homelink,FI 18" CBE,ERZ HFCs,Hotchkis sways, Swift Spec-R, EVO-R Highwing, UPREV

08-27-2010, 04:57 PM	#3 (permalink)
azn370z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Seattle Posts: 1,722 Drives: z34 - R1 Rep Power: 489	Why don't you try emailing a dealer, simple as that. __________________ 2010 k23 H&R sport springs / Spc rear camber arms / SSR SP1 / Berk cbe / Varis cf lip / Nismo S-Tune side skirts

08-27-2010, 10:43 PM	#7 (permalink)
Spec Jay A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Bummerton Posts: 1,510 Drives: MtB 09 370z Rep Power: 19	Advantage Nissan! I have bought 2 of my cars there always great people and a mod friendly service side too! I usually stop by and BS once a week or so and if i remember right there were 7 z's that just came off the truck I can hook you up with my sales guy, very relaxed and zero bs. PM me if you want. __________________ 09 Monterey Blue Global Time Attack Street Class Build Build Thread:Saber! Instagram:@SpecJay

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08-27-2010, 05:33 PM	#4 (permalink)
daleks Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: St. Louis Posts: 424 Drives: 2011 Evo X MR Rep Power: 15	All dealerships are the same. The best way to get a "good price" is to find a dealer with the car you want on the lot. Look up the invoice price on KBB or cars.com for your zip code ahead of time. Show up and represent yourself as a serious buyer (aka look like an adult), and then stick to what you want to offer and don't budge a penny. Let them start talking numbers first to you and just go after their line items. You don't want roadside assistance, nitrogen filled tires, prepaid dent removal service, extra clear coat, etc. When I bought my Toyota the dealer had a line item for "refunding" me half of the holdback (percentage of sale manufacturer pays to dealership in the form of a rebate). It's all BS. Just focus the final number in terms of invoice (including destination) + dealer profit + TTL (tax, title, license). You want to whittle away at the dealer profit section since the other items are fixed. If you're financing the finance manager will try to make you feel like an idiot for not signing up for the extended service warranty. I strongly feel these are unnecessary and be consistent in saying you're not interested should you not wish to have one. You need to make up your mind on this BEFORE going to the dealership though. The finance manager will also tack on a silent $150 document fee. You can negotiate that one away. There is a B&O fee too that we pay since we're in Washington state, but it's nominal (<$50). If they are rude or challenge you to explain yourself, then tell them you want look at other dealerships. It's not like Nissan dealerships are rare. The mental part of the game is they try to make it seem like they're doing you a favor, but in reality it's the other way around. Always be polite, but get everything in writing (invoice for deposit and downpayment), and don't take any sh*t from anyone. One more thing is if you're doing a trade they won't offer you much. Trades generally work by them calling around for a buy bid on your old car. The offers are rarely that good, and then you have another factor to consider in whittling away at the dealer profit since it now includes the amount they can make off of your trade. Plus, at some point they'll ask you for your keys while you're sitting down talking to someone else. It's generally to go check the odometer and do a quick check on the car, but they never bring the keys right back. It's a mental thing to make it feel like they already "have" your car. My point being is to never give them your keys until the deal is in writing and when they inspect the car just walk over there with them. Have fun.

08-27-2010, 07:44 PM	#5 (permalink)
ilostmypill Base Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: vancouver Posts: 162 Drives: 2010 40th Rep Power: 14	thanks guys