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So this quickly devolved into our 10001st oil thread as expected. :p
Regarding diff types of oil synth vs Dino. If here talking about a dd car, even the z, IMO it doesn't matter and as long as you change the oil at regular intervals, you should be able to get 250k miles no problem assuming no manufacturing defects. If you track, then that's when oil types, diff weights of oil etc start to matter IMO. |
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not 300~500K with best maintenance and oil change ?? just wonder :D |
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:icon17: |
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you mean that you diss.ent from my opinion ?? |
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Oh, and now ibtl. |
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1) I saw a youtube about how to do the self engine compression test, but I don't think I can do that. Where can I get the test then? 2) How much usually it costs?, I mean the compression test. 3) Sometimes I feel like it showes a bit slower response on my full-acceleration than before. Do you think the test result can answer to that feeling? Even now I'm not sure whether it really goes slower or just it's by my subjective. |
Would Redline be better than Nissan's Ester?
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No no no, you need mobil 1.
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I use Wesson oil myself, with just a drop or two of Virgin Olive oil. ONLY the Italian genuine Olive Oil, mind you.
J/K, I use PYB, it's Moly levels are thru the roof, and I change at 3-3.5K intervals. I'll never go to track, and 5K is the highest my car tach has seen, and that was "S Shift" thinking I was going to 3rd instead of 5th at highway speeds. I enjoy oil discussions and none of us is ever smart enough to stop learning something once in a while, even about oil. Only problem is sometimes the Mods have to close the thread because of bitter arguments erupting. |
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Why? You have to rev this car to make power. |
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SN oils are blends these days: have to be to meet the specs. Its not regular 'dino' anymore...major improvements in lube industry over time, we benefit. its very subjective (and often ignorant) to think/state with authority that one oil is 'better' then another. This often comes up with synthetics. Just because one blend may use more PAO or Esters does not make it better. They all are just different formulations (which are proprietary to the blender). For example Redline can be very shear stable which is great in racing conditions, but has a much lighter add pack: so running it on the street means you need to change it more often. Does that sounds like a smart use of oil and money? Not when there are better add packs and shear stable products out there for the street at a lower cost :) Folks do realize the total number Zs and other 3.7L VVT cars out there that get 3-5k stock dealer bulk 5/30 oil changes in them and are perfectly fine? Myself, I have been trending my Z on BITOG.com in the UOA forum. Few others there too, some G37s if folks want to see just some examples. I do it out out of pure geek factor/curiosity. The $20-30 spent on a UOA, if I was truly concerned, would be better served in just changing the oil more often. :D - b |
I had excellent Blackstone reports running Redline 5W-30 in my 2009 Z. However, the cost of the Redline went up quite a bit and I have been able to buy several 6 pack cartons of the Pennzoil Ultra (not the new Ultra Platinum) Euro Spec oil on Amazon.com for several dollars less per quart. It has performed comparably with the Redline in the Blackstone resports. Additionally, my consumption went down from about 1.25 quarts per 5000 miles to about a half quart between changes with the Ultra. Not sure why but I like it. The Nissan Ester oil is OK, but it needs to be about $6 per quart for what it is. You can do much better for the money.
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my UOA's seem to be much better....and mine sees a few track days/year using pennzoil ultra platinum
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Excellent post..... Thanks!!
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