Originally Posted by Scott@Synergy (Post 3070868)

This is why I run redline, can't beat the Mo! Zinc and Phos are your other wear metals you want! The 99 Mo is mobil 1.

And as far as I know redline and Motul use the best stock, Polyol-ester.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psd58a259d.jpg

Originally Posted by Scott@Synergy (Post 3070898)

Well keep one thing in mind...dealers hire a ton of $8-$10hr whoevers to do their tires and oil changes. They normally have maybe one A tech that will never see your car. Service writers are also anyone looking for a job that usually don't know their butt hole from an arm pit. Everyone there I can guarantee doesn't care about Nissan let alone your Z. It's just a job, plan and simple! The best work you'll ever get on your car is from you. Or a least being on here find some local buddies to help you out or by chance befriend the A tech some how. This only comes from years of experience in the business. I wouldn't trust a dealer as far as I can throw them. Also...you seem very hell bent on following what Nissan tells you to. I'd do my own research on this. They tell you what to do safely for legal purposes. They can't tell you to break in a motor properly because of lawsuits and people killing themselves. Same goes with bedding in brakes. I'm not saying stop what you're doing, I'm just saying think outside the box and dont drink so much of their coolaid haha.

Just a quick example, Subaru swore by a 7500 mile oil change or 3750 under extreme conditions but forgot to test the 3 micro screens in banjo bolts on the turbos and else where. The long changes and people listening caused a lot of blown issues when the screens clog. Now they say ALL turbo motors are extreme and to change at 3750. People on forums also knew this way before and removed the screens. I think this a good example of don't alway listen to the manufacturer and keep your ear to the ground here from the people that know.

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3070901)

He's getting the oil changed and services done. I don't believe everyone at all the dealers is out to get you....LOL I don't use the Nissan oil either. I will only use a Nissan oil filter for my own reasons.

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3070902)

Hmm, I see your silicon levels are well in line with what I would expect. The Ops above appear to be higher. Hence, I was hinting at a leak somewhere causing unfiltered air to pass into the engine.

Originally Posted by Scott@Synergy (Post 3071780)

Check out bob the oil guy or something forum. You'll find more on oil you'll care to see.

Originally Posted by shaun66 (Post 3071797)

Gonna change oil this week. Hopefully my motor likes Mobil 1! Judging by that oil analysis maybe not so much. hmmm

Originally Posted by nis350 (Post 3071975)

the reason I asked about dino oil is because I want to see if it is just as good as the expensive oil if the change interval is 3k-4k miles. i have heard many think that the good dino oil is just as good with short change interval.

I've personally used mobile-1 full synthetic for decades on all my cars with good results.

Originally Posted by nis350 (Post 3071978)

not sure how significant those stats are relative to the real engine longevity. While it is a different engine, my friend changed oil (dino) every 15-16k on his Camry and have no oil related engine issues at over 250k miles.

Originally Posted by nis350 (Post 3071978)

not sure how significant those stats are relative to the real engine longevity. While it is a different engine, my friend changed oil (dino) every 15-16k on his Camry and have no oil related engine issues at over 250k miles.

Originally Posted by Scott@Synergy (Post 3071993)

Depends. Dino oil breaks down really fast. The best to worst list is basically how long the oil stays oil with use under low to high extremes. Do a track day or get your oil above 200+ degrees and expect the dino oil to kill your motor fast. Redline on the other hand you'll be able to use for the 24 hours of Le Mans. As the oil breaks down and shears off that's when you want your micro lubricants to be there. Again Redline kills Mobil 1 for example. RL uses a better base and more Mo, Z, and Ph. For DD I still wouldn't use dino oil as it won't be synthetic. You still want the motor to not wear out.

Originally Posted by Scott@Synergy (Post 3071994)

And I believe it. But do a compression test and dyno it. This is why motors lose power over time. I bet it's no where near stock.

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 (Post 3072022)

That's a Toyota. That's made by people who know how to build cars. They fix themselves