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Should I get a Warranty -- How many issues have you had?

I have not had a single thing go wrong since the factory warranty expired and the Nissan aftermarket $100 deductible warranty kicked in. Living in Florida, we have to pay

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Old 06-03-2014, 03:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I have not had a single thing go wrong since the factory warranty expired and the Nissan aftermarket $100 deductible warranty kicked in. Living in Florida, we have to pay whatever retail is for the extended warranty, so I purchased mine from Santa Rosa Nissan in California for less than 1/3 the cost of the local dealer quote.
If you can afford it and need peace of mind do it.
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Old 06-03-2014, 03:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Bear in mind that mods will effect the warranty. If you install an aftermarket exhaust system, you can probably forget about the engine being under warranty.
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Old 06-03-2014, 04:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grandpawmoses View Post
Bear in mind that mods will effect the warranty. If you install an aftermarket exhaust system, you can probably forget about the engine being under warranty.
Exhaust messing with engine is a huge stretch.

Either way, keep your OEM items in case your engine does go bang
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Old 06-03-2014, 04:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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No. Save your $$$. Most of those are written so the normal wear items aren't covered or they are reasons why not to cover it.
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Old 06-03-2014, 04:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Ext Warranty

Lots of thing to consider here. #1 - who is the warranty with. Nissan, or the dealership, or a third party. Third party I say no. Nissan, yes for $1400. BUT, These prices CAN be negotiated !! I just bought a 2014 new, and the Nissan dealer went from $2520 to $1495 really quick. 3 additional years Nissan.
Also, the previous Z, (2012) purchased from a Nissan dealer used, came with a "Certified Warranty" from Nissan for a period of 84 months from the original date of sale. This was a big plus on buying the car. And I read these warranties carefully, and they are okay. I have never read any good reviews on third party warranties.
Just my 2 cents.
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Old 06-03-2014, 04:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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No. Save your $$$. Most of those are written so the normal wear items aren't covered or they are reasons why not to cover it.
The wear and tear items are the cheapest though...
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Old 06-04-2014, 08:10 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grandpawmoses View Post
Bear in mind that mods will effect the warranty. If you install an aftermarket exhaust system, you can probably forget about the engine being under warranty.
i don't see why an exhaust would void a warranty?
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Old 06-04-2014, 06:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You can do whatever you want behind the cats and keep your warranty. If you alter the manifolds or catalytic converters, then your powertrain warranty will be voided.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:55 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njobe89 View Post
i don't see why an exhaust would void a warranty?
Long version (and maybe a little overly stated):
When you modify an exhaust or intake to be less restrictive, you cause the engine to run leaner (and hotter). The wide band O2 sensors will adjust the ECU to accommodate for this a little but a retune really is needed or you could ruin an engine. The dealer and factory rep is going to look for a reason to deny any "big ticket" warranty repairs.

Not speaking of Nissan but my personal experience with Harley-Davidson: If a bike comes in for an oil change or whatever and the mechanic notices a non Harley modification, the dealer can "flag" the bikes VIN and it can be denied specific warranty repairs in the future. Now the Magnuson-Moss warranty act does protect you because it requires the modification to be directly associated with the problem.

Last edited by grandpawmoses; 06-05-2014 at 07:09 AM.
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:08 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grandpawmoses View Post
Long version (and maybe a little overly stated):
When you modify an exhaust or intake to be less restrictive, you cause the engine to run leaner (and hotter). The wide band O2 sensors will adjust the ECU to accommodate for this a little but a retune really is needed or you could ruin an engine. The dealer and factory rep is going to look for a reason to deny any "big ticket" warranty repairs.
Thanks for the quick educational lesson, didn't know that and of course the dealer would try to find the smallest thing so they don't have to pay, bastards... i already have my exhaust on now and getting the intake put on this weekend and i wasn't thinking of getting it retuned, but i guess i need to now lol
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Old 06-05-2014, 11:42 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njobe89 View Post
Thanks for the quick educational lesson, didn't know that and of course the dealer would try to find the smallest thing so they don't have to pay, bastards... i already have my exhaust on now and getting the intake put on this weekend and i wasn't thinking of getting it retuned, but i guess i need to now lol

If, after the exhaust and intake mods, everything seems to run okay, there is a cheap way to tell if you're running too lean. Warm up the car, Run it hard for about a mile, shut it down & coast to a safe stop, immediately remove a spark plug and check its' insulator color. Black is too rich, white is too lean, and tan is what you want to see. If it's white, get it tuned immediately.

For what it's worth
Not to justify the cost of a tune but it involves a lot more than just getting the air/fuel ratio to a stoich AFR(about 12.7 AFR for 91+ octane fuel in a naturally aspirated engine). It also involves timing, spark knock retarding, cold cranking enrichment, acceleration enrichment, and deceleration enleanment to name a few. The AFR is adjusted for each cell in a table of throttle positions against engine RPM's. This is done for each cylinder too. The dyno technician really needs to know his stuff and will still take over a dozen wide open throttle runs even with todays computer assisted tuning software. Also, get a copy of the tune or "map" on a thumb drive & keep it. It'll save you some money if you ever need to reflash your ECU.
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Old 06-05-2014, 12:26 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grandpawmoses View Post
If, after the exhaust and intake mods, everything seems to run okay, there is a cheap way to tell if you're running too lean. Warm up the car, Run it hard for about a mile, shut it down & coast to a safe stop, immediately remove a spark plug and check its' insulator color. Black is too rich, white is too lean, and tan is what you want to see. If it's white, get it tuned immediately.

For what it's worth
Not to justify the cost of a tune but it involves a lot more than just getting the air/fuel ratio to a stoich AFR(about 12.7 AFR for 91+ octane fuel in a naturally aspirated engine). It also involves timing, spark knock retarding, cold cranking enrichment, acceleration enrichment, and deceleration enleanment to name a few. The AFR is adjusted for each cell in a table of throttle positions against engine RPM's. This is done for each cylinder too. The dyno technician really needs to know his stuff and will still take over a dozen wide open throttle runs even with todays computer assisted tuning software. Also, get a copy of the tune or "map" on a thumb drive & keep it. It'll save you some money if you ever need to reflash your ECU.
i'll be going to z1 motorsports, everyone seems to agree they are well trusted, but i will ask for that when i go and see them.

is this the general rule for every car or just the Z's? i had a rsx-s before with some bolt on and never did a tune on it or anything and it went fine for the time i had it.
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Old 06-05-2014, 01:29 PM   #13 (permalink)
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This is false. An exhaust doesn't blow an engine. They would lose in court. They may give you **** about it, but if you stick to your guns I would say its not a problem generally. I know a lot of people with STis (my previous car) that have had an engine blow with an exhaust and it was covered.

Quote:
Originally Posted by grandpawmoses View Post
Long version (and maybe a little overly stated):
When you modify an exhaust or intake to be less restrictive, you cause the engine to run leaner (and hotter). The wide band O2 sensors will adjust the ECU to accommodate for this a little but a retune really is needed or you could ruin an engine. The dealer and factory rep is going to look for a reason to deny any "big ticket" warranty repairs.

Not speaking of Nissan but my personal experience with Harley-Davidson: If a bike comes in for an oil change or whatever and the mechanic notices a non Harley modification, the dealer can "flag" the bikes VIN and it can be denied specific warranty repairs in the future. Now the Magnuson-Moss warranty act does protect you because it requires the modification to be directly associated with the problem.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:40 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattimus View Post
This is false. An exhaust doesn't blow an engine. They would lose in court. They may give you **** about it, but if you stick to your guns I would say its not a problem generally. I know a lot of people with STis (my previous car) that have had an engine blow with an exhaust and it was covered.
I appreciate your input but let's get this back on track. I've attached a picture of piston damage done by a lean engine. This is the engine failure I'm referring to, not blowing an engine.
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File Type: jpg 169500d1236892930-98-zr-500-melted-piston-piston_001.jpg (90.9 KB, 14 views)
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:05 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I would drop the $$$$ on the Xtended warranty if u don't work on the Z urself.
For the following reasons:
1) oil consumption
2) oil overheating
3) plastik CSC failing
4) rear diff silicone bushing tearing
5) I could go on, but I refrain....
The Z is a cost-cutted POS, but w/the right mods and time dropped into it...it can become a fun reliable daily.
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