Hey can anyone explain to me why cant I get over 300 whp with an uprev tune on my 2013 370z and the set up I have - want to stay N/A

Stillen G3 CAI, Berk test pipes, Stillen CBE

Am I missing something ??

if you look on this thread, the first person to post a dyno sheet has the exact same mods as you.. except he went Berk HFC instead of TP's.

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...r-results.html

He is at 299/233tq without UPREV

So that means that your TP's will yield 1-3 more whp, and uprev will give you another 10whp. - Should be at 310whp no problem

So i'd say if you already have UPREV, your tuner did something wrong or you dyno'd at a hot temperature, or other factors...

My list of first modz

1. 5% 3m window tint
2. Beluga CBE & Y-Pipe
3. Nismo S-Tune Front lip, side skirts & rear spats.
4. Kenwood DDX370 DVD-Touch Screen HU
5. GTR start & map lights
6. Continental DW tires all around (used 285 35 19 in the rear)
7. NST Pulleys(in production)

You hit the nail on the head. It's August. Re dyno in December for peak numbers. Also, look at area under the curve, not peak numbers.

Get an oil cooler kit, radiator, and diff cooler kit too! Just to "fix" heating problems, for track and hard street use


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I was told that it would not go over 300 whp but as I read more I see N/A 370z going well over 300 and if I change the pully i'll get even more right?. I like the shop im going to hard to find a good shop.

Here you go: http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ag-thread.html

The pulleys dont actually give you any more horsepower, I believe it just helps to get you thru the gears so you go faster. I could be wrong though.

I think you should just wait it out and retune when the weather is nicer or go dyno at a different shop. Dynos all read differently based on the brand

Does the original poster to this thread still need help 4 years later? Seems unlikely. Is he still here on the forum even?

What did OP choose?

Thanks to all great advise

Input
 

Hey everyone, I just bought a new 2014 Nismo. I want to do some up grades to it. Already got a fast dimensions cat back with hfc's and stillen gen 3 intake. I was wondering what else (kind of minor) that could be done. Are things like oil cooler and clutch helper spring good to have? Or are they really not necessary.
Thank you for your help.

I am guessing you mean Fast Intentions? Anyways, what exactly are you looking for out of the car?

1. Clutch helper spring. Do you mind how the stock clutch feels?

2. Oil cooler. You have the OEM one since your car is a 14, have you had any issues with oil temps?

Lol, yeah, brain fart there. I haven't noticed anything weird about the clutch, was just wondering if it helped at all. Nothing with the oil temp as of yet. Have just read in a few places that it is notorious for running high on the Z's

The easiest way to tell if you would like the clutch helper spring is to just take out the spring that is there now. You can drive around for a bit without it there to see if you like the way it feels. When you put the new clutch spring in it feels the same way.

As far as the oil cooler if you don't plan on tracking your car you should be fine with the stock oil cooler you have in the car now.

Other little things you could try is to maybe do something with your headlights or to upgrade your sound system. There are plenty DIY threads to re-do your lights or suggestions for audio upgrades.

If you happy with the clutch, leave it alone.
Pre 2013 had a bigger issue with oil temperatures. But only if you track the car or live in a very hot climate. You might have to wait until the hot Jersey summer to see if it's an issue.

clear bra

^ +1

Absolutely Necessary:

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...7/DSC_4249.jpg

adds about 55whp & you can get a premium membership to go with it!


Congratz on the car and welcome!

wats a fast demented? :ugh2:

Oil temps shouldn't b a problem for the op in jersey. I've driven around in mid 90 degree temps in the middle of August and I was fine. Even made a trip down to North Carolina with no overheating issues.

Ok, thanks for the advice everyone, I appreciate it.
Already upgraded the head unit, I couldn't take that god awful factory one. Tint is done, CAI and CBE, HFC will be done shortly!

I'd put in sway bars and lowering springs like swifts or stiffer H&Rs before the cooler. Makes the driving experience way better.

Yep agreed. Mine is getting that and the tints done on Sunday. Hopefully I can push then to do the side skirts and also the rear fenders with the price I agreed upon also. I think the sideskirts and rear lower fender flares will get chipped.

Installed blend mount for my 9500ix with invisicord.

I recomend stillen HFC and G3 intake.

Makes a big difference for the $$

For me, I'll be doing a 25% tint and considering plastidipping clear over the whole car. Considering I work on car audio, I'll probably end up doing that second. Total overhaul of audio system, needs to happen. Bose system... bleh.

Just finished my K&N drop-in's, haven't tested them yet; I will be upgrading to a NISMO exhaust later. In the long run, plenum, & pulley's.

Congrats. I came very close to doing drop ins, then the mod bug gave me mod fever so I ordered G3s, RHFCs, and FI CF non-resonated exhaust in July. My first mod should be a big jump. Keep an eye out on the parts for sale list. There are tons of folks who are selling nice exhausts for a good price. Enjoy!

I'm looking for an exhaust myself or hfc as my first mod.


@Darketch
your right and I hope it stays that way. Almost ready to scoop one up myself

Im kinda torn between my first budget mod. First thing I want to do is make my exhaust louder along with gaining a few extra hp. So should I be getting HFCs or a beluga exhaust? Been reading the intakes should be the first mod. So which one? Budget is ~$300

I have always found replacing OEM shock absorbers with high end aftermarket transforms a car. That's what I'd do. A much bigger effect than any bolt on engine or exhaust mods. Then I'd do the brakes, similar reasons. Then do exhaust and engine.

very True NY really only cares about the check engine light and that all of the readiness codes are set (your allowed (1) not ready) they don't really bother with pulling the wheels off and putting on the lift (unless you get a shop looking to soak you for money)

My first mod was aam exhaust.

So what would be the maximum power I can get from my 2015 370Z without going twin turbo or supercharged and what a the costs normally?

I think I've read that people can get over 400 at the crank, but no one has broken the 400 whp threshold. Cost = hella much.


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I googled it and apparantly most if not all can only manage to get around 320 @ the wheels!?

First mod Airlift Autopilot 3P kit, installed earlier today.

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...ads/image.jpeg

The first thing I did was window tint and wrapped the roof. First real mod was Tein Street Flex coilovers with EDFC Electronic Dampening :tup:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1616/...4c61b0d1_b.jpg

Looking good Phil hope to see it this summer.

Hey guys so I have been reading a few dated threads from 2011 about how much power the stock internals the Z can handle. Some people rekon around 450-500 rwhp. So now that it has been a few years since then, are people seeing many zeds with this sort of power on stock internals without issues over these years. Blown motors or anything for a daily 450-500 rwhp Z?

How much HP did you get from that?