My motor is dropped, what parts would you change?
 

UPDATE, AGAIN!!!
Headers and Z1 parts are in hand!!!

AWSOME!!!

Momentum header order has been placed!
After a LONNNNNNGGGGG and drawn out process... I paid for 3 day shipping to get it Friday to take for install on Saturdayl


So my motor has been dropped to replace a valve head.
So I figure now is the time to install parts...

I have most standard bolt ons, but as of now, I'm thinking:

I decided FOR
Momentum headers
Change all hoses to blue silicone
Change all fluids


I decided AGAINST:
Jun Cams because no one has data
TT or S/C because I don't have that much money
CSF radiator because I don't track on death hot days and I'm not TT or S/C
Mishimoto thermostat because I don't want a CEL or over cooling


To be decided (have to do more research into it):
Larger PS cooler
Transmission cooler
G35/37 thermostat

As for both the mods suggested above, I'd love a PS cooler that can be almost a direct swap, making it easier for the techs to do, and I'd love to see a really good detailed install of a trans cooler

I believe there is a G35/37 OEM thermostat that opens 10 degrees sooner, and supposedly it won't cause a CEL.


Any suggestions or info would be greatly appreciated! :tiphat:


And please don't suggest, bore it out to 4.0L or dry sump or something to that effect, I don't have the time or money for that

Headers but you already mentioned it.

What about the transmission? Do you need to change the clutch yet or upgrade it? It's probably out too?

What about that fuel pump that eliminates fuel starvation?

That's the one I've got. In a box in the garage, so I can't confirm lack of a CEL.

He's got an auto, so no need for a clutch.

Only the motor is out, so the fuel pump wouldn't be (nearly) free labor.

A different motor? :p
Only thing I could think of would maybe be pulley/belt combo, possibly motor mounts (and transmission).

Any chance they're removing the timing chain cover as part of that job? If so, replace the water pump (cheap and easy, should do it anytime that thing is open really), and consider upgrading the oil pump to the Nismo one that's not so likely to grenade at high revs. If it were me (and my circumstances may be different), even if they weren't planning to open the timing chain cover, I'd just take advantage of having the engine out of the bay and do those two things anyways.

:iagree: exactly.
Can you give me the P/N of the thermostat? Or if you'd like to sell it... :ugh2:

Pulley and belts I'll install at a later time at my local shop because it'll be cheaper

Motor/transmission mounts... Thought about those.
My warranty will cover the rubber ones when they fail
My questions are:
What is the REAL purpose? Yes I know that there will be less delay because the rubber flexes, and people say it helps put the power down (or something to that effect) but wouldn't that be temporary until the rubber flex is maxed out?
And if you lock down the transmission (or motor) with solid mounts, do you NEED the other mount?
Example: If I install a trans mount, that will be solid. The motor is BOLTED to the transmission. How much will it them move? Or will it then just put extra stress on the trans mount?

Also, if you were to buy one or the other, which one, and WHY?

I HIGHLY doubt it, but I'll check and see if it's REALLY worth it to me
And I don't think I'd do the Nismo oil pump due to cost.

I'll try to check when I get home. It's somewhere in the box of "crap I'll install once it's not 105 outside".

Your warranty won't really cover the OEM mounts when they fail, since it'll take way too long for them to ever fail if they haven't already. The car will feel more responsive, since that little bit of slop in the OEM mounts has to be compressed every time you touch the throttle. For lack of a better term, the car will just feel tighter. I would do all of the mounts, since individually I'd doubt you would see enough of a difference to make it worth the effort. As a set, you should feel the change from the rubber mounts.

I know you said solid, but you meant poly, right? Solid motor mounts are for masochists and track cars only.

Ps and tranny cooler installs don't need the engine to be dropped but are good ideas. Motor mounts sound good. Thermostat sounds like a bad idea.

Any particular reason why? A 10 degree colder OEM one from a G37 should work fine. The Mishimoto one isn't a good idea, both because 160 is too cold and Mishimoto products are cheap Chinese garbage.

Cause Chinese parts.

But for the g37 one I don't really see the point of opening 10 degrees earlier if your engine coolant is going to be running higher than both actuation points.

I'm with you on that part. I'm shocked they're allowed to be a vendor here, considering how often their junk fails.

They make great videos though!

Oil cooler while its there? Nothing crazy if you aren't tracking it, but while its out, why not?

Trans fluid cooler is probably not a bad idea (isn't there a stock one?) but again if not tracking it or boosting it, no need to over cool.

Oh, their whole marketing dept is impressive. Unfortunately their parts are made out of used Chinese beer cans by drunken toddlers. I could hold a welder in my *** and lay down a better bead than they did on the radiator I bought from them years back. Enough jacking Andrew's thread, though. Back on topic.
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Mishimoto sucks balls.

There is a stock one. There's a line that runs to and from the radiator for the 7at trans fluid.


Couldn't find any install instructions for a cooler but it looks like it'd be just rerouting to a cooler than back to the rad or viseversa.

On the mounts, it's all about being able to feel the car better. There's a certain amount of flex between the trans and engine themselves, even, and there's a fair amount of flex in the mounts of both to the frame of the car. When you're trying to control traction at the limit, it's all about being able to "feel" the car.

Basically your butt planted in the seat is getting feedback from the car. Your gas pedal is input to the car. The brake pedal and steering wheel are dual-purpose, they're inputs and you also feel feedback through them. In the same way that stiffer suspension makes that feedback loop work better for corner forces, stiffer motor/trans mounts make it work better for wheel slip during acceleration. You'll feel the direct impact of your gas pedal and steering angle adjustments under acceleration faster and more accurately (back through your butt and the steering wheel), so that you can make better and faster adjustments to keep it right where it should be.

The motor mounts are kind of a bitch to install with the engine in the car. I mean, it's doable, but it would be so much easier to do it while the engine's out. The trans mount you could do anytime, it's very trivial and nothing really comes out of the car to do it.

Not sure how stiffer motor mounts would feel on a Z, but on my Evo, I had the front and rear mounts changed to 90A poly ones, and it caused strong cabin vibrations. I imagine the Z would absorb more of that however.

Firmer mounts = more vibration... also I have seen a few broken solid mounts for the Z, so I'd do some extra research before buying...

In theory, it's less torque lost and thus faster driveline response. You won't see it on a dyno, but as wstar noted, you will FEEL it when you throttle on.

At idle you'll feel it too, tho'...

If you don't mind some extra vibration, and they won't crack, sure why not?

replace a valve head
 

Your not on the drag racing list. So did you damage the head road racing? I would get something/do something so the valve head won't get damaged again. Not easy to damage a valve head. What happened?

The Z1 Urethane versions aren't too bad. The car doesn't seem to be trying to shake itself apart or anything. But then again my car environment is pretty harsh in general, maybe I'm not the best judge :)

The last dealer to work on it dropped a manifold nut into the head and lunched a valve.

Wow! They had to try hard to do that:)

How do you know?

He's got a long thread on it.

You lost me at. "My motor is dropped" o,o
Ummm don't forget to change the oil ?

?

My motor is currently outside the car
And man I'd LMAO if they don't change the oil.

Lol, I'm just a noob when it comes to car parts especially the engine haha

You should install the Momentum headers I was unable to get off in time......

Why not straight to F.I. LTH?

FARK!!!

Welllllllll... I like the ability to go from TPs to cats and such...

Forgot to check last night, so I searched the forum this morning. Found it.
W0133-1725928

It was in your post in this thread http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...hermostat.html :p

The link to buy it in your post doesn't work anymore, but here's one that does from the same website.

Genuine W0133-1725928 - Auto Parts Network

I just checked thermostats for both the G and Z at my parts warehouses here at work and both say they are 180 degree.

??

The one in the link says 170. Maybe it was different for 2008?

The ones I showed were Gates and Motorad, and for 09 model years. I can't imagine they'd be different 09-13, but IDK. Let me check somewhere else real quick.

Ok I cant legally disclose my provider, but my manual says OE opening temps are Nissan 370Z: 170 degrees; Infiniti G37 Coupe: 180 degrees.

That's the exact opposite of what's been posted here for ages. Very odd.


The one I bought was OEM Infiniti for a 2008 and 170 degrees, but maybe the website was wrong. It wouldn't be the first time.

I would expect my "industrial strength" service manual to be more accurate lol! The website could easily be wrong.

I would hope so. Looking at that website, the 20110 370 thermostats are 180 degrees.

2011 Nissan 370Z Engine Coolant Thermostat - Beck Arnley, NTC at Auto Parts Network

Maybe they've just got it backwards, but that doesn't explain how everybody here's been wrong since 2009.

Just checked all years for both and still the same, Z 170; G 180, and thats all body styles/models too.

And this is all manufacturer provided data. There is an error somewhere obviously, whether from the manufacturer or from the many parts houses.