What's the different? 300hp? 400? 500?
 

Hi there,
I really want to know what is the different between 300hp 370z and 400/500hp 370z.

I always see some ppl post a dyno chart/video on youtube but say it's 400whp 500whp.

I have no idea how fast are they.
A stock 300hp 370z 0-60 is around 5. So what will a 400whp/500whp 370z get? 4.5? or just a bit quicker?

Thanks.

Go take a look at the 1/4 mile times threads. You're not going to see a huge difference 0-60. There's just not enough traction, and it just gets worse as the power goes up. Compare the fastest NA times to the fastest boosted times. It's a huge difference.

only like 1 second isnt really much though.

1. jnaut (NA) 12.245
1. coop (TT) 11.130

you'd think for dumping around $10K more into forced induction it would be more though. but i'll admit getting into 11's is impressive and for TT getting in the 10's would be awesome too.

i'll still proud to be 5th fastest NA with only intake/exhaust/tune and FULL weight on street tires. :tup:

A second in the 1/4 is huge. The difference in trap speeds was more what I'm getting at. That's where you're going to see the power. It's a difference of 12 mph between NA and FI.

yea of course but trap speeds are weird sometimes. i'm had runs being my fastest ET of the day with one of my slowest traps. yest i'll admit my fastest ET has my highest trap but i ran again and backed up a 12.899 with a 12.900 and it had a 4 mph slower trap at .001 second slower. just baffles me lol

and yes 1 second is huge but for 10-15 grand for a good TT kit and tune it is just a lot.

There aren't many 11 second cars out there for $40-55k that aren't a Vette or Mustang/Camaro.

Thanks. I just had a look for the 1/mile time attack thread.
7 out of 8 TT 370z are manual and the only 1at is a g37.
Why is that? 7at cant handle TT? Or it just a personal preference?

The AT explodes over 400whp unless you throw a good chunk of money at it. the 6MT just needs a clutch.

its not really HP its the TQ that destroys the 7AT.

i gave up my TT aspirations based on wanted to have a TT 7AT. to do so tack on a extra $7-9k to do it properly and be able to use all the gears with the potential power of a stg 2 TT kit.

you can go TT and low boost run 450whp and 400tq and be ok with some tranny cooling upgrade and valve body upgrade. problem is you can go balls deep in the higher gears (5,6,7) at full throttle from what i understand.

so my quoted $20k for TT, stg 4 AT tranny, cooling upgrades made me just say one thing.....GTR lol

Where you would really see the power is if you had a 1/2 mile or even a full mile run. A stock Z would fall right off after the 1/4 mile whereas the FI'd one just keeps pulling.

i disagree. 1/4 mile i'm at 105-110mph. car can still climb a lot higher and pretty quickly after 110. idk if you've ever done that but it can. just fyi lol :tiphat:

yes a TT car would probably pull faster and harder but it also has around 100-200 more whp. if it doesnt than that Z is a fail lol

It's a whole different animal. The top of fourth comes up REALLY fast.

I like what chuck said the best... after 400whp/500, your traction is gone.

It might be a fun race while you are doing a pull, but from a dig, your S.O.L.

Eh, I get some traction in second if it's hot out. Winter, it breaks loose in second like it used to do in first.

Im trying to understand what your saying, lol. Sure a non FI Z is fast, but the FI really shines in 4th and 5th. Sometimes 3rd as well depending on traction. But when you can pull through 5th like nothing else it always puts a smile on my face. The car just squats and goes.

Like was said earlier I actually believe that unless you are a really good driver a stock Z will give a FI Z a run for its money to 60. 1st gear is so short with FI that it makes the shift difficult, not to mention the wheelspin while trying to shift. Its really a drivers game down low once your FI'd

much faster than honda.

I dunno those V-Tecs are something out of this world!

Hhahaaaa the VVEL is WAY better then VTEC:icon18:

VTEC- All the lag, none of the turbo.

At ~120, the distance traveled in 1 second is about 175 feet, or 13% of the total distance. It's pretty substantial.

:tiphat: respect for doing all the maths and research lol

but......i ran against a guy doing mid 11's the other weekend and he didnt seem that far ahead of me. def not 200 feet. i mean my perception of it from a driver seat may be skewed but doesnt seem that far ahead.

175 feet, or a whole lot of car lengths. The TT car is absolutely running away from the NA car, and it's just going to get worse as speeds increase.

I'm curious.

Have you been spending the past year or so wondering how fast this car is?

Noob question...why can they get HP to the asphalt? More weight on the back? If I just need more weight in the back I can always stuff my ex-wife in the hatch. :ughdance:

i beat a SS camaro once and i swear this dude was going to beat his wife afterwards lol

The Camaro weighs more. The Mustang has a solid rear axle. The Vette has the tranny in the back for a little extra weight back there and wider tires.

... I think jnaut had $10k put into that car too

The best stock time looked to be 12.9ish at 108 or so. That makes a TT Z almost 2 seconds and 16 mph faster in the quarter mile.

thats a lot for N/A

It's easy to do once everything is said and done

http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...-111-81-a.html

And I think Z_eliminator had more $$$ in it with slicks and such

That's actually a pretty good example of the difference between NA and FI. That's a great ET, but the trap speeds just aren't there.

i have no where near 10K in mine and i'm not far off lol

No gear ratio change for you?

It adds up fast but the reason why Jnaut was so fast is he had all the upgrades he needed to put down the power. Jnaut was on slicks, 4.36 gears, upgraded LSD, weight reduction, full bolt-ons, tune, probably suspension of some sort.

Remember that our bolt ons are expensive as is but factor it all in. Exhaust for $1-1.5kk, intake for $600, LTH or shorty/test pipe combo average of about $1k, LSD $1-1.5k, Gears for $800, install of the gears $400-1k, tune with uprev $800, Clutch and Flywheel with upgraded CSC $1k, Slicks and wheels $1000, and I'm sure I'm missing stuff.

According to that post.....only thing out of the ordinary from most peoples list is the gears. I'd hardly say close to $10k DEpointFive0 :rolleyes:

And you don't have headers. Which is almost $1000 of labor right there

i havent paid any labor. i do all mine myself. i used a friends lift for my exhaust install and i bought him and all his guys pizza and beer for the lift use and some help. does that count? lol

you know what i never thought about the additional cost of clutch upgrades. sorry 7AT state of mind lol. i would like to do gears but who knows ifor what i'll do next.

nope all stock. literall all i got is intake/exhaust/tune and i'm at 324RWHP not bad

Lol, I want a friend with a lift, I hate all of you

Not bad at all :tiphat:




Btw, since it's early morning, I screwed the math hard, I forgot the argument of doing the MHI TT kit vs NA, people say it's $5k for it vs the $5k of NA mods you'd do anyways... (Which is false)... It's closer to $7-10k vs $4-5k depending on NA mods


My bad, disregard :tiphat:

The clutches take a beating but as for gears......Makes a WORLD of difference in acceleration. I had issues with mine as of course, I'm in Hawaii where I am super limited to who I can take things to and who will actually do it correctly. They made it right at the end for the original price I was quoted but it took a good 2 months to finally get it, 2 sets of gears, and 2 sets of seals..... I removed and installed the diff probably 6 times. Takes me less then an hour to drop it out and less then an hour and a half to swap between my 2 diffs lol.

The MHI kit is $6k at group buy pricing....Not includings all your gauges, the tune, and all the miscellaneous extras no one ever knows about until you actually build a turbo car lol. I'd say closer to the $10k mark when youre done and ready to roll.