my $20k estimate was for the MHI kit, and stg 4 7AT tranny, cooling mods (oil/tranny), and labor......then tack on shipping it to the place who gave me the estimate lol

yea we discussed all this before sir lol :tiphat:

Having to do the AT mods pretty much makes it cost prohibitive. It's not bad at all for the MT guys. The cost/HP works out pretty well when all you have to do is buy a turbo kit and a clutch.

Ticket size.

I want that fast intentions twin turbo.. Should I buy out the z and get it? Ya right.. Wait till 3 year lease is up and get a used z06 ftw.

Used Z06

If he complains about a Z this much, imagine how bad it'll be once he gets into an old enough Z06 that he can afford to lease. It'll be absolutely beat to death.

yea a good clutch set-up for a TT MT set up is like 1500-2500 maybe higher end depending on your HP. i've seen some high hold clutches for like 4k but thats if you're pushing A LOT of power lol

7AT stg 4 tranny is about $7600 with labor

It can be. Mine was nowhere near that much. Maybe $1k with the flywheel.

Some guys go twin disk set up. With the power being put out currently, its complete overkill IMO.

i was quoting high but its around there for some set-ups i've seen.

my mistake for my original TT dreams with a 7AT was 550RWHP lol no way with out many tranny upgrades. TT price doubled within a instant.

Maybe we've finally found a use for the Stillen SC- guys who want FI, but need to keep hp and torque at AT-friendly levels?

:bowrofl: not me. all that money for that little power isnt worth it. whats the point of forced induction if you're barely making monster power :stirthepot:

Why not a C7?

lease deals probably won't be cheap enough.

or why not just return the car early? it's not like you HAVE to lease it for the full 3yrs.

I've offered to start a Kickstarter to pay off the early turn-in penalty on his lease just to get him to shut the **** up already.

make me one for a GTR lol

Nothing's stopping you. I read about a guy who did one to buy a Lambo. No real reason other than he wanted one and couldn't afford it. Not sure if he got enough.

interesting :stirthepot:

I don't know about you guys, but I'm making enough power to beat a Honda [lawnmower]. :) Where'd the OP go?

maybe kicked by kangaroo's?

Thanks bro. I live in Australia and a 370z brand new costs 68k. A brand new GT-R costs like 190k(yes, 190k without other fees).

So spend 20k to get a stable 7AT TT 370z is still acceptable in this country. But the point is, 20k is enough for to make a stable 7AT TT Z? I afraid I have to pay like 25k or even 30k to get a AT TT 370z. That's too much for me. Although it's acceptable(20k) but still lot of $. So I just want to ask for opinions.

I do wanna try 7AT because my evo9 and dc5r are both manual, I really want to grab a 7AT this time especially many 370 owner said 370z's 7AT is a amazing stuff.

68K for a Z?!?! brand new ones here you can get for like 40k loaded lol

anyways $20k TT kit and highly upgraded transmission for a 7AT should be plenty powerful and stable. there actually is someone who purchased that specific tranny i mentioned recently. they havent added any forced induction just yet but are in the process of it soon. i'm sure once they do it and share results it will become more popular. i'm guessing most people are like me and cant pull the trigger on a $7800 transmission upgrade when no one has really tested its limits or potential yet.

i'm guessing it should be able to hold up to a stage 2 TT kit but like i said no one has really put it through its paces yet.

also as for you're interest in buying a 7AT Z i'd say go for it. i have driven many 6MT Z's prior to me buying mine but the first time i drove the 7AT version i was sold. :tiphat:

Start here to give you some ideas:
GTM Motorsports*::*AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION*::*GTM Stage 3 Transmission Upgrade

You might want to switch to a heavy duty flex plate since some owners experienced cracking.

you meant this one http://www.gtmotorsports.com/product...cat=262&page=1

i think your link is for the 350 AT tranny

here is the one i spoke of....

GTM Motorsports*::*AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION*::*GTM Stage 4 Transmission Upgrade

Like this.

Australia is not the country for cars lol.
Would you mind tell me how much did u spend on your Z to get 12.4?

oh no my best time is 12.899 @ 110.74mph

i was referencing the other just above me being 12.245 and 12.4 #1 & #2

i just have intakes and full exhaust (test pipes/cat back) with a uprev tune on my Z.

FP, did you feel a difference in power after the N/A mods were done? Butt dyno-wise

oh for sure. gotta think i'm up like 50rwhp from stock. i did not base dyno mine but going off of most i've seen the avg is around 275rwhp stock. i'm up to 324rwhp for now.

i have seen Z's base dyno high at like 285 and some under 270 so i feel safe in saying 275 is avg.

FP, I would've been so happy with 275whp.

I dyno'd at 256/222 with my 7AT. So thats +68whp gained with your mods.

LOL... dem gainz.

juses christ you were that low? sorry to hear that bro then again i have no clue what mine was nor do i want to take all my parts off, dyno, then reinstall. i've gone too far.

with my parts all on i "base" dyno'd at 309rwhp/250rwtq before they started my tune. so my tune gains were 15rwhp/8rwtq

:iagree:
That seems quite low, did you dyno on a Mustang? from those numbers it looks like, but hell it still seems low ... :confused:
I baselined 290 on a Dynojet with my 2013.

It wasn't a mustang dyno - Dyna-com was the brand I think...

Anyways, we didnt use a fan. Car was really hot and heatsoaked. It was 104 when we did the testing. I dont know.

I know it was low, but I also baby the car and didn't reset the ecu before the dyno testing... so maybe if i reset the ecu, drove her hard, and then dyno'd, the number would be higher.

290whp is great though!

To the OP, the power difference you feel can be quite subjective. Prior to buying my stock Nismo, I chased hp with a 350 hp FFR Cobra, a 550 HP GTS Viper, and lastly a 600hp C7 Z06. The truth of the matter is, the chase gets expensive, and if you really want to play, you will pay. The Z06 was an absolute blast, fast as any street car should be, but if I blew the motor screwing around, it was gonna cost me @ $10-$14K for a new LS7. That little piece of information really kept me from romping on it much (as well as the lack of LE attention I desired).

I never tracked the cars much, so I rarely ever used them to their potential. Sure, it put a big freaking smile on my face every time I hit the start button, but in the end, I decided to go with a "simpler" sports car, with enough power for the road.

I guess what I'm trying to say is, if you have $$$ to burn, go S/C or TT, but understand that you will, in reality, rarely ever use it's potential unless you track it, and that, in and of itself, is gonna raise your costs substantially. Not trying to be Debbie Downer, just sharing a couple of decades of experience....

Enjoy!

to answer your question, basically, a FI Z will pull a lot harder and faster than a N/A Z, that is a fact

my opinion on this though differs from most people, if you ask me which is better, ill tell you it depends on the setup, what kind of race, ect. sure making tons of WHP looks great on paper, but if the car is unbalanced and the power curve is jaggid and has spikes in certain places, that car will never be able to touch a balanced car making 50 less whp through the corners but take the same cars and race them in a straight line, the one making more power will smoke the balanced car

at the end of the day though, its up to you and what your goals for the car are, i recommend going for a ride in a FI Z one day, i rode in the stillen 370z once and all i can say is WOW, completely different than my car

in fact, it made my car feel slow for a few weeks until i got use to it again

Thanks. Your experience is useful to me. Well, my goal is to track the car, I don't like drag race actually but track. What I worried is TT Z maybe generate too much heat, even though GTM has good reputation, still an after market kit. I need more opinions to judge it. Of course it should be fine for 1-2 round but what about 3-4? Not sure yet and still waiting for someone's experience.

I drove evo and dc5r before, not heavy mod for both. They are brilliant on the track. But you know, the Z has attracted me somehow, and she is rwd(I drove awd,fwd.), I think I don't need to mention why the Z attracts me obviously you guys knew it.

I dont even know where can I install the GTM kit in australia, hopefully it is not a complicated kit otherwise I am not sure anyone in aus can install it properly.

I dont consider other cars in this range, I like the Z because of the appearance, I don't care how much power she came from stock, what I care is how much power she can generate after tuned. Of course, I have no idea of the GTM quality, I dont want to kill the Z with more than $20k. As long as it's safe, I think people always willing to spend 20k, even more.

If power is not your main goal but tracking is, I personally would upgrade suspension, brakes, brake ducts, oil cooler, diff cooler, wider wheels and tires, new diff, sway bars, etc. and see how much more power you need after that. Make the mods to put the power down before you add the power to see how you like the balance of the car first. If you go FI without the supporting mods first, you're going to hate the Z as a track car. The car has enough traction problems as is. The VLSD will heat pretty quickly and turn into basically an open diff.