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It wasn't a mustang dyno - Dyna-com was the brand I think... Anyways, we didnt use a fan. Car was really hot and heatsoaked. It was 104 when we did
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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It wasn't a mustang dyno - Dyna-com was the brand I think...
Anyways, we didnt use a fan. Car was really hot and heatsoaked. It was 104 when we did the testing. I dont know. I know it was low, but I also baby the car and didn't reset the ecu before the dyno testing... so maybe if i reset the ecu, drove her hard, and then dyno'd, the number would be higher. 290whp is great though!
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#2 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 252
Drives: 2012 Nismo
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To the OP, the power difference you feel can be quite subjective. Prior to buying my stock Nismo, I chased hp with a 350 hp FFR Cobra, a 550 HP GTS Viper, and lastly a 600hp C7 Z06. The truth of the matter is, the chase gets expensive, and if you really want to play, you will pay. The Z06 was an absolute blast, fast as any street car should be, but if I blew the motor screwing around, it was gonna cost me @ $10-$14K for a new LS7. That little piece of information really kept me from romping on it much (as well as the lack of LE attention I desired).
I never tracked the cars much, so I rarely ever used them to their potential. Sure, it put a big freaking smile on my face every time I hit the start button, but in the end, I decided to go with a "simpler" sports car, with enough power for the road. I guess what I'm trying to say is, if you have $$$ to burn, go S/C or TT, but understand that you will, in reality, rarely ever use it's potential unless you track it, and that, in and of itself, is gonna raise your costs substantially. Not trying to be Debbie Downer, just sharing a couple of decades of experience.... Enjoy! |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Base Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Australia
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#4 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Mililani, HI
Posts: 1,566
Drives: 2014 Juke Nismo RS
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If power is not your main goal but tracking is, I personally would upgrade suspension, brakes, brake ducts, oil cooler, diff cooler, wider wheels and tires, new diff, sway bars, etc. and see how much more power you need after that. Make the mods to put the power down before you add the power to see how you like the balance of the car first. If you go FI without the supporting mods first, you're going to hate the Z as a track car. The car has enough traction problems as is. The VLSD will heat pretty quickly and turn into basically an open diff.
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![]() R.I.P. 8/01/13 1SlowZ One day I'll have another.... |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Location: San Diego CA
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