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man.... how much do you want Nissan to sell a base Z for if you want them to put: a light weight flywheel better sway 25 rolls oil-cooler LSD NISMO ECU better clutch better CSC PSS tires more light weight material better audio better quality components.... dude.... please be realistic.... for its price.... what do you want...? it's a USD$30k sports car.... it's not a Ferrari... |
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So what do you consider a "real" sports car.... People want wayyyy too much these days, I just don't get it. :shakes head: Someone said the sports brakes aren't great....wow! Drive my WRX and then tell me how "bad" the brakes are on the Z. Hell my Si had better brakes than my WRX. |
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a light weight flywheel Same cost as heavy one better sway Same cost as weak one (and not addressed on my post) 25 rolls oil-cooler Now included and only a hundred buck or two from factory would not effect cost much LSD As part of sport package either don't offer a crap one or charge enough to make it worthwhile. Most ppl who need LSD have to buy two. (One installed and one upgraded) NISMO ECU free. just use the Nismo flash. RCU Data is free once developed better clutch Point taken. Though I don't know how expensive it would be to put in a well designed clutch pedal. I doubt it would cost much outside of design cost. (Which cost almost nothing to implement.). (I'd be happy to send them mine to copy for free. Lol) better CSC Point taken. But failure prone OEM cost more in long run than decent OEM would. PSS tires Never addressed in my post. more light weight material Not addressed in my post better audio Not addressed better quality components. Not requested or demanded I think you are just mad that I have insulted your car (I her it I love mine too). That was not my intention tho this is just meant to be a quick reference of easy fixes for new Z owners. Things almost everyone eventually addresses. Don't be mad it's just info for shining up a cool car to make it great. |
Diamond in the rough.
A heavy flywheel makes the car easier to drive. A lightweight flywheel is a pain in the *** to drive with and it's noisy. Nissan didnt design the car for enthusiasts, they designed it for a larger market.
And part of the sales pitch for the Nismo is the increased power. Why would they tune all zs to that level? |
[QUOTE=SurfDog;2532399][QUOTE:
a light weight flywheel Same cost as heavy one better sway Same cost as weak one (and not addressed on my post) 25 rolls oil-cooler Now included and only a hundred buck or two from factory would not effect cost much LSD As part of sport package either don't offer a crap one or charge enough to make it worthwhile. Most ppl who need LSD have to buy two. (One installed and one upgraded) NISMO ECU free. just use the Nismo flash. RCU Data is free once developed better clutch Point taken. Though I don't know how expensive it would be to put in a well designed clutch pedal. I doubt it would cost much outside of design cost. (Which cost almost nothing to implement.). (I'd be happy to send them mine to copy for free. Lol) better CSC Point taken. But failure prone OEM cost more in long run than decent OEM would. PSS tires Never addressed in my post. more light weight material Not addressed in my post better audio Not addressed better quality components. Not requested or demanded I think ppl are getting mad thinking that I have insulted their car (I understand, I love mine too). That was not my intention! This is just meant to be a quick reference of easy fixes for new Z owners. Things almost everyone eventually addresses. Don't be mad it's just info for shining up a cool car to make it great. I'm not going to defend this position anymore. If you love your Z as is then please by all means leave it be!!! If you want a list of easy fixes that make this car more reliable and in my opinion nicer to drive please feel free to implement some of the aforementioned mods. They are provided as a service to those who don't lurk the forum as much as I have. If I can save one member from being stranded by fuel starvation or a broken CSC or SLC I'll consider this post to have been a service to my fellow Z lovers. It has never been my intent to insult anybody's car or mod choices, and so I can stop worrying about bruised egos, I am now officially stepping out of this thread. |
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SurfDog, I understood and appreciate your post as I did a couple of those fixes myself. IMO, nothing wrong with discussing some of the imperfections on an already good product to make it even better. Maybe our discussions will be overheard by Nissan and the next Z will be even better :tiphat:
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^^^^
Whatttt who asked for 200bhp! |
I thought I'd comment on the issues below based on my experience with my first-year (2009) sport-touring 370Z that I've owned (since new) for over 4 and a half years:
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The base stereo is fine by me, better than other cars I've owned
The road noise is because there are huge wheels right behind your back I've never had any problems with fuel starvation and about every tank I get to --- miles remaining Heavy flywheel probably makes the car easier to drive for most people, or is a bandaid for what I agree is horrible clutch feel. Most people who buy the car will never even know what an LSD does so from a company standpoint it doesn't really matter to put in a better one. That said the S15 which ended production in 2001 had a helical R200. I would add that after 1 year, the paint bubbling off of a car is pretty ****-tastic. I've never had a car before with electronic throttle or traction control. I think both of those suck and could be revised. I want to go WOT when I put my foot all the way down. Agree on the oil cooler, sitting in traffic and hitting 250* is stupid. |
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:shakes head: Okay, I know I promised do abandon this thread (which I'm truly sorry I opened), but this post is just ignorant! The problem is not that I'm too weak to lift the hatch, its that the springs are to weak to pop it open. When you push the button, you have to push the button once to get it "almost popped", then lift it and push the button again to get the hatch up. (this cannot be done with one hand) Some people put pennies in the spring housings to give them enough "oomph" to get over the half sprung position. Some people remove the hatch weight so the springs don't have as much to push. Some ppl, (like me) take the service bullion down to the dealer and ask for the upgraded stronger springs. (and have to pay like 10 bucks ore something for them). These new springs have enough "go" to get the hatch to where one can use one's noodley arms to open the hatch. I may or may not need curls, but you definitely need to understand what your posting about before insulting the OP's level of fitness. |
comparing to my 2012 wrx you guys should be happy lol every time I drove the car i was just waiting for it to **** a piston.
the Z is a sports car. its not supposed to be quite. the absence of an oil cooler hasn't been an issue for me and never had fuel starvation leading to power loss and ive pushed it pretty hard on 1/4 of a tank. tune seems awesome to me... no hick ups and smooth power band.. my wrx would misfire all the time. threw its first code at 26 miles on the odometer everything else seems great to me also. best bang for the buck in my opinion. but then again i bought mine used with 22000 miles lol |
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution recalled over clutch woes - Autoblog
"If you're one of the 10,474 people that has a Lancer Evo X GSR, which is the only way into a manual-trans Evo X, you need to plan a trip to your local dealer. The recall relates to a failure in the clutch master cylinder, making shifting in and out of gear difficult. Consequently, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration reports that this could increase the odds of crashing." Maybe Nissan will do the same for us 1 day :driving: |
Diamond in the rough.
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Well, my experience has been a bit different from that. I get fuel starve at over half a tank every time I hit the track (if I don't constantly top off.). That experience makes me very conservative turning long right hand on ramps. I run with some stock 370s at the track and they get 3-4 laps tops in summer conditions before the over temp their oil and have to pit for an hour or so to cool. My 25 row cooler keeps me at about 240 when pushing hard. (Not too bad)) I wear earplugs when DDing my Z because I don't want to go deaf. (I flew helicopters for the USMC, so I know dangerous noise levels when I experience them). If the Z were a commercial vehicle, OSHA would definitely require hearing protection. This is no big deal really, but I don't really bring many passengers in the Z due to limited ability to talk. Actually I should bring the wife in the Z more. It would probably enhance the experience! |
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:icon18:
Well heck its all fixed!... now |
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Enter the Quaife LSD. Now my "drifts" are both predictable ,(not dependent on hugely variable power transfer from different temperatures of diff oil) AND more importantly CONTROLLABLE. I drift a bit in the snow and rain, but more importantly it happens if I get throttle happy at the track. The Quaife has saved me from any number of trips into the dirt. Now when I begin to power slide, the back end goes out smoothly and controllably and comes back (with a slight throttle lift) the same way. Its just plain fun. I chose Quaife (helical gear style) over other LSDs due to low maintenance requirements (none really) and handling characteristics under normal use (I mostly DD my Z) LSD is recommended (by me lol) if: 1. You plan to track. (I'd say almost mandatory) 2. you run in the wet and don't like spinning out when you push her a bit hard into a turn. 3. you don't like the feeling of the traction control/VDC (nanny) pulling power every time you aggressively turn and simultaneously accelerate. LSD vectors power to your better gripping rear wheel to avoid the spins which activate the "nanny" 4. You occasionally like to push into a drift for fun (note: for best results remember to turn off the VDC. Okay mods I'll say it... ONLY AT THE TRACK:rofl2:) |
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I have a Quaife.
Pros: great DD (no noise or ratcheting), low/no maintenance (do not have to replace clutch plates) Lower operating temps. Helps with cornering by "vectoring" torque to outside wheel. Direct swap into the OEM (note you might need one new stub axle (call Z1) Cons. Doesn't really lock (might actually be a pro depending on application) Acts like open diff if you lift a wheel. Not great on ice/snow (acts much like an open diff in those conditions ie it needs some traction to function ) Z1 is great for advice. I do not recommend this as a DIY unless you've done them before. |
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That is an interesting list of issues, as my car has almost none of these (from factory - maybe you bought the wrong car?) 1 - Steering lock issue was fixed after ?2011? 2 - Oil coolder was added on 2012+ models 3/4/5 are all solved if you buy a 7at 6 - If nissan did that they wouldnt sell any nismos, all manufactures do this sort of thing, no nothing unusual here. 7 - I have not noticed any unacceptable road noise at all, maybe your tyres are noisy?? Are they potenzas? 8 - Ok its not the best but its pretty common in cars of this price. 9 - Never had an issue with my hatch. 10 - This hatch weight does not exist in the ST models, and lets face it, if your buying a sports car why not get the top model. I bought my car new and pulled the hatch apart only to find it wasnt even there. Myabe this is a base model thing. So moral of the story is, as long as you buy a 2012+ ST 7AT, most of these issues dont exist. |
Of course many “purists” consider the AT to be the worst issue of all :)
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