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biggest spacers without changing studs

What is the biggest spacers I can go without having to change my studs?

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Old 06-04-2012, 12:18 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default biggest spacers without changing studs

What is the biggest spacers I can go without having to change my studs?
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:31 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I believe spacers are generally not recommended. Places undue strain on stud bolts.
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Old 06-04-2012, 02:38 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I would not use the stock studs for this application. You could get away with 5mm, but I wouldn't run them hard. I concur with Hithere to either use the bolts that come with the spacers (H&R's are harder than stock) or get some ARP bolts and open lugs.
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:01 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hithere View Post
I believe spacers are generally not recommended. Places undue strain on stud bolts.
If you get the right lenght of studs with the size of spacers should not be an issue.

A lot of us have spacers with no issues, but we have the proper stud lenght with the spacer size.

That one that are not recommended are the V2s spacers.
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:27 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I'm on 20mm up front, 25mm in the back. They are bolt-on spacers, not stud-replacement. I got mine from Z1 and they have been on the car since last December
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfearl1 View Post
I'm on 20mm up front, 25mm in the back. They are bolt-on spacers, not stud-replacement. I got mine from Z1 and they have been on the car since last December
Me too, not a problem. I think they go as high as 30mm.
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfearl1 View Post
I'm on 20mm up front, 25mm in the back. They are bolt-on spacers, not stud-replacement. I got mine from Z1 and they have been on the car since last December
I got 20mm spacers V1 all the way around from Z1. I had V2 on my 350Z but always felt uneasy.
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:56 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I got 20mm spacers V1 all the way around from Z1. I had V2 on my 350Z but always felt uneasy.
Can you explain the differences between V1&2?
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Old 06-04-2012, 01:21 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfearl1 View Post
Can you explain the differences between V1&2?
Hub centric?
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Old 06-04-2012, 01:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
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V1 is just a spacer with extended studs to account for the appropiate spacer size.
V2 is a spacer that bolts to the hub and brings its own studs for your wheel to mount on.
Both could be hub centric or not. I believe our hubs are 73mm.
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Old 06-04-2012, 01:52 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Aizen Sosuke View Post
V1 is just a spacer with extended studs to account for the appropiate spacer size.V2 is a spacer that bolts to the hub and brings its own studs for your wheel to mount on.
Both could be hub centric or not. I believe our hubs are 73mm.

V1 you have to replace your OEM studs.
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:01 PM   #12 (permalink)
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So why are v2 spacers not good?!
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:12 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'm running 15mm in the front and 20mm in the rear and I launch hard and Auto-X the car and never had issues. I have the replaceable studs. H&R DRS Spacers.
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Old 07-31-2012, 08:39 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Lots of people like the built in studs (call them V2 for purposes of this thread) and have never had an issue however I chose the extended studs for the following reasons...

Less mounting points hence less chance for error... with bolt on spacers you have two sets of surfaces needing to be bolted down
Increasing number of studs from 6 to 12 per wheel... again more areas to potentially fail
Inner lugs hidden and harder to check torque... potential to come loose without you seeing

Not the end of the world to get the bolt ons but I'd rather spend more time at install knowing I am secure... it didn't take long at all to replace all the studs and the price difference was negligible in either direction.
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Old 07-31-2012, 08:42 PM   #15 (permalink)
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if it's a hub-centric wheel like our Z's you should not use spacers that do not have the centering lip. even if it's 5mm there's a taper on the center bore (wheel side) so the wheel will not sit correctly.

if it's aftermarket wheels using tapered lugs you can go 5mm usually; you want 10mm thread and use steel lugs in this case. do at your own risk.
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