Probably a dumb/noob question..

pty370z · 07-06-2009, 12:14 PM

So, in short words.....

It may be possible, not advisable, do it at your own risk, and the best way is to engage the clutch, off the throttle, shift gear, and resume acceleration.. A.K.A. the good old way...

Island_370 · 07-06-2009, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crash

OK... First off, this method of keeping the throttle more than 0% is called "No-Lift Shifting" AKA "Power Shifting".

This is easily done on cable-driven throttle bodies and on some newer cars with electronic "Fly-By-Wire" throttle bodies. I believe all cars since 2005 are fly-by-wire. For example, on my 2007 Solstice, you cannot power shift. The throttle body automatically closes if you try to power shift. But newer models now allow this.

There is an aftermarket piggy-back kit that can allow for this (drive by wire only). You can program the delay for your normal shift time. When the clutch is engaged, the piggy-back reduces the throttle and then goes back to WOT after the programmed delayed. It is more beneficial for a turbo car because you can have the system keep the boost on....or at least help keep the turbo spooled. For an NA car, it just seems like being lazy.

EDIT----The piggy-back pulls ignition, not throttle. Oppss.... Here is the link....
http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox

Crash · 07-06-2009, 01:20 PM

Interesting. I may look into getting something like that for my Solstice. I tried my hardest to no-lift with the Solstice because that turbo winds down fast. This could help. Although, for $300, GM has an add-on kit that removes that limitation from the computer and allows the waste gate to hold more boost (stock will only allow 22PSI). Not really worth the money, but it's warrantied.

molamann · 07-06-2009, 06:25 PM

Used to this on my bike on the track, though it's quite necessary on the street.

Togo · 07-06-2009, 07:53 PM

Its my understanding that this isn't great to do with cars. Something to do with synchro mesh or what have you. I know it's the preferred method for large commercial trucks but they have a different set up compared to cars. One has synchro mesh and one doesn't, can't remember which is what, etc.

On the flip side I do this on my bike from time to time but it's much safer for a sport bike. All our gears are actively engaged just not all of them under load. It's as simple as just clicking in to gear. Lots of guys use this method at the race track because it saves time off their laps if you are good at it.

07-06-2009, 12:14 PM	#31 (permalink)
pty370z Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Panama City, Panama Posts: 654 Drives: over the speed limit Rep Power: 17	So, in short words..... It may be possible, not advisable, do it at your own risk, and the best way is to engage the clutch, off the throttle, shift gear, and resume acceleration.. A.K.A. the good old way... __________________ 2010 Solid Red 370Z * *Touring-Sport-6MT Black Interior Performance:** STILLEN * BERK * UR * MISHIMOTO * K&N * Z1 * ZSPEED * UPREV * DBA Interior: GT-R Red Start/Stop Button * MSA Floor Mats * PW:JDM Exterior: INGS+1 * SEIBON * FUJIMURA * PW:JDM * UAM * KICS * VOLK

07-06-2009, 01:20 PM	#33 (permalink)
Crash A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 1,853 Drives: 02 Corvette Z06 Rep Power: 589	Interesting. I may look into getting something like that for my Solstice. I tried my hardest to no-lift with the Solstice because that turbo winds down fast. This could help. Although, for $300, GM has an add-on kit that removes that limitation from the computer and allows the waste gate to hold more boost (stock will only allow 22PSI). Not really worth the money, but it's warrantied. __________________ 2002 Corvette Z06 - Totaled 2003 Corvette Z06 50th Anniversary

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07-06-2009, 06:25 PM	#34 (permalink)
molamann A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 1,666 Drives: 370Z with NAVVVVV Rep Power: 284	Used to this on my bike on the track, though it's quite necessary on the street.

07-06-2009, 07:53 PM	#35 (permalink)
Togo A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: E. Northport, NY Posts: 7,597 Drives: Stuff Rep Power: 656	Its my understanding that this isn't great to do with cars. Something to do with synchro mesh or what have you. I know it's the preferred method for large commercial trucks but they have a different set up compared to cars. One has synchro mesh and one doesn't, can't remember which is what, etc. On the flip side I do this on my bike from time to time but it's much safer for a sport bike. All our gears are actively engaged just not all of them under load. It's as simple as just clicking in to gear. Lots of guys use this method at the race track because it saves time off their laps if you are good at it.