Nissan 370Z Forum

Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   Nissan 370Z General Discussions (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/)
-   -   CSC failure covered under warranty? (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/62902-csc-failure-covered-under-warranty.html)

njobe89 03-18-2015 10:33 AM

i bought my car 11 months ago with 56 miles, now i'm at 22,xxx and nothing is wrong with it... yet. i think the failure might vary from how people drive. i.e do they put it in first gear and hold the clutch at a red light the whole time. etc. etc.

i don't abuse my car, but i sure do push it once a week i would say.

R0bDC 03-18-2015 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3141196)
No worse than any number of potential incidents that can happen on the roadway. Driving a vehicle is dangerous, period. CSC failure is safer than a tire blowout, which is far more common. Just put your hazards on and move over to the shoulder. It's not like you're going to slow down 30 mph suddenly - you'll just gradually slow down from the engine braking. And why do you say you can't brake? If you're going 90 mph, you can brake all the way down to 2/3 of that speed (~30 mph) before worrying about engine dying. That should give you plenty of time to make your maneuver to the side of the road. I would argue that going 90 mph is less safe than the CSC failing at highway speeds.

Not to mention, I can't even recall any incidents where the CSC failed completely while driving. Most people come out to a mushy pedal when they get in the car.

I guess my point is that there are other things to be more concerned about failing while on the highway. The CSC failing is going to much more manageable than some more common scenarios.

I wrote this huge paragraph, and then I was like......... "Is it worth it?" I think it can be a safety issue in some scenarios.

Davey 03-18-2015 07:23 PM

Any failure of anything could be a safety issue in some scenarios. Alternator belt snaps? OMG your lights go dim and you crash into a lake and die.

Someone issue a recall and get us teflon belts. :D

I do wish they would fix the damn part, but I don't hold out much hope for a recall.

R0bDC 03-18-2015 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davey (Post 3141880)
Any failure of anything could be a safety issue in some scenarios. Alternator belt snaps? OMG your lights go dim and you crash into a lake and die.

Someone issue a recall and get us teflon belts. :D

I do wish they would fix the damn part, but I don't hold out much hope for a recall.

:gtfo2: Hahahah What an A-Hole, Just kidding.

But seriously, Nissan consciously knows the slave is faulty! That's what bothers me most most.

Davey 03-19-2015 05:59 AM

:tiphat:

If you think that's me being an A-hole, stick around, you'll be amazed. :tup:

JARblue 03-19-2015 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R0bDC (Post 3141793)
I wrote this huge paragraph, and then I was like......... "Is it worth it?" I think it can be a safety issue in some scenarios.

:icon17: :tup:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davey (Post 3141880)
Any failure of anything could be a safety issue in some scenarios.

This was my point. Can't worry about everything that might possibly go wrong.

Quote:

Originally Posted by R0bDC (Post 3141988)
But seriously, Nissan consciously knows the slave is faulty! That's what bothers me most most.

:iagree: It's like the ESCL (steering lock). Hell, they even issued a recall on the ESCL, and the version used in the recall had known failures on the forum even before the recall was issued. Stupid Nissan :shakes head:

11Thumper 03-19-2015 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by georgem71 (Post 3139481)
If I have to I will hire an attorney and just go all out. It's almost been a week without my z and it's deviating because I've been driving a civic

Sure you will...;)

Haboob 03-19-2015 02:45 PM

I'm more worried about it going out on the freeway on my way home, which for the most part is just gears 1-3 (third gear if I'm lucky) and stuck in the middle lanes. I wouldn't be able to coast over to the shoulder or anything, I'd just have to sit in the middle of the freeway, creating more of a cluster ****.

georgem71 03-19-2015 08:26 PM

**Update**
Was able to get the CSC covered under warranty. Still going to replace everything with Z1 though ;)

Davey 03-20-2015 06:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by georgem71 (Post 3142980)
**Update**
Was able to get the CSC covered under warranty. Still going to replace everything with Z1 though ;)

Can you clarify... Did you get your dealer to agree to perform the work using the Z1 parts? Or do you mean later down the road you'll do the Z1 stuff?

I'm pretty sure I could get my dealer to goodwill the install in any case but I have not yet heard of anyone getting the upgraded cylinder put in during the warranty work.

JARblue 03-20-2015 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Haboob (Post 3142708)
I'm more worried about it going out on the freeway on my way home, which for the most part is just gears 1-3 (third gear if I'm lucky) and stuck in the middle lanes. I wouldn't be able to coast over to the shoulder or anything, I'd just have to sit in the middle of the freeway, creating more of a cluster ****.

Why would you stay in the middle lane? Put it in neutral and walk it over to the shoulder. I hate people that get in a minor fender bender and don't move off the fuckin roadway. I've had my car totaled by an accident before - I was still able to pull it off the road into a parking lot.

JARblue 03-20-2015 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davey (Post 3143264)
Can you clarify... Did you get your dealer to agree to perform the work using the Z1 parts? Or do you mean later down the road you'll do the Z1 stuff?

I'm pretty sure I could get my dealer to goodwill the install in any case but I have not yet heard of anyone getting the upgraded cylinder put in during the warranty work.

There are a few people who have had the dealer installed aftermarket parts in lieu of OEM during warranty service. However, those dealers are very few and very far between.

Haboob 03-20-2015 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3143340)
Why would you stay in the middle lane? Put it in neutral and walk it over to the shoulder. I hate people that get in a minor fender bender and don't move off the fuckin roadway. I've had my car totaled by an accident before - I was still able to pull it off the road into a parking lot.

I would definitely try, but there's so much traffic that it's almost too dangerous and even impossible to do that. I can see it now, me trying to to push a heavy *** car by myself and change lanes, but no one will stop to allow me to cross 1-2 lanes...

JARblue 03-20-2015 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Haboob (Post 3143365)
I would definitely try, but there's so much traffic that it's almost too dangerous and even impossible to do that. I can see it now, me trying to to push a heavy *** car by myself and change lanes, but no one will stop to allow me to cross 1-2 lanes...

lol heavy? Try pushing a 3 ton Range Rover over a l" lip from a standstill. That's not fun.

I would get out and talk to the driver behind you. Even move your car forward a bit to give them room to clear. Then have them pull out and block traffic on one side. I've done this for a lady whose car broke down in front of me before. Of course, I moved my car over to block, and then got out to help her push her's to the shoulder. Ideally you can move it yourself. I know you're skinny, but the car moves pretty easy since it's on wheels ;)

njobe89 03-20-2015 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3143377)
lol heavy? Try pushing a 3 ton Range Rover over a l" lip from a standstill. That's not fun.

I would get out and talk to the driver behind you. Even move your car forward a bit to give them room to clear. Then have them pull out and block traffic on one side. I've done this for a lady whose car broke down in front of me before. Of course, I moved my car over to block, and then got out to help her push her's to the shoulder. Ideally you can move it yourself. I know you're skinny, but the car moves pretty easy since it's on wheels ;)

:rofl2::rofl2:

Haboob 03-20-2015 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3143377)
lol heavy? Try pushing a 3 ton Range Rover over a l" lip from a standstill. That's not fun.

I would get out and talk to the driver behind you. Even move your car forward a bit to give them room to clear. Then have them pull out and block traffic on one side. I've done this for a lady whose car broke down in front of me before. Of course, I moved my car over to block, and then got out to help her push her's to the shoulder. Ideally you can move it yourself. I know you're skinny, but the car moves pretty easy since it's on wheels ;)

:icon17: I know, I'm sure I could move it, it's just the traffic and fucktards in Phoenix that I'm worried about.

JARblue 03-20-2015 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Haboob (Post 3143392)
:icon17: I know, I'm sure I could move it, it's just the traffic and fucktards in Phoenix that I'm worried about.

Yeah, I would not try this in anything other than bumper-to-bumper traffic. Don't want to risk encountering some idiot going near full speed and not paying attention.

mayday813 03-20-2015 05:01 PM

I recall reading (I think in this forum but I can't seem to locate the article) that someone made the suggestion that you change the clutch fluid in the clutch master cylinder resovior ever 10k miles or so. Use a baster to remove the fluid and replace with clean fresh DOT3 brake fluid. Press the clutch about ten times (engine stopped) and repeat the process. Change the fluid whenever it starts to discolor.
While it doesn't remove all the fluid, it replaces a majority of the fluid and seems to extend the life of the CSC.
A number of vehicles use a similar design to Nissan's. Dodge Viper is one that comes to mind off hand.

ltullos 03-21-2015 02:15 PM

Which DFW dealers have covered CSC under warranty
 
I know my day is coming when I have the CSC failure and I already have the ZSP replacement in hand. Would like to hear from DFW folks which dealers agreed to replace under warranty and which ones balked. I have extended 120K mi warranty and am only expecting them to pay for the MC & labor.

simonsun347 07-20-2015 06:31 PM

Would like to revive the thread. I think I have a CSC failure. 11' with 40K miles, clutch to floor, towed to shop, thought it's clutch fluid boiling, had them put in Z1 SS line and Motul600, bled it, perfectly okay for two weeks, only to jump in to a soft clutch again. Fluid went from max to almost min in under two weeks, had them jack it up and they noticed brake fluid leaking from seal of transmission housing to engine block.

now I have two options, either try to have Nissan dealership inspect it and see if it can be covered under powertrain warranty (5yr/60k) or just have the shop do a Z1 CSC delete kit.

For one, I don't want the dealership to drop tranny only to find out it's not covered and have to back on and waste $600 (it's still driveable now). But also concerned on how long the new one will last. At the same time, I love the possibility of dealership covering everything the replace as least the CSC (my clutch should be fine unless it's covered in fluid).

So what do you guys think? I have a spare beater I can drive around in the meantime so downtime is not a concern.

Thanks for input!!!

1st 07-20-2015 06:54 PM

Z1 CSC delete kit and call it a day. If they are willing to do the work under warranty try and negotiate them doing the labor and you buy the delete kit to have them install. Per Nissan tsb is to replace the fluid with gtr i believe dot5 but its not a fix its a patch.

firulice 07-20-2015 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simonsun347 (Post 3262407)
Would like to revive the thread. I think I have a CSC failure. 11' with 40K miles, clutch to floor, towed to shop, thought it's clutch fluid boiling, had them put in Z1 SS line and Motul600, bled it, perfectly okay for two weeks, only to jump in to a soft clutch again. Fluid went from max to almost min in under two weeks, had them jack it up and they noticed brake fluid leaking from seal of transmission housing to engine block.

now I have two options, either try to have Nissan dealership inspect it and see if it can be covered under powertrain warranty (5yr/60k) or just have the shop do a Z1 CSC delete kit.

For one, I don't want the dealership to drop tranny only to find out it's not covered and have to back on and waste $600 (it's still driveable now). But also concerned on how long the new one will last. At the same time, I love the possibility of dealership covering everything the replace as least the CSC (my clutch should be fine unless it's covered in fluid).

So what do you guys think? I have a spare beater I can drive around in the meantime so downtime is not a concern.

Thanks for input!!!

go here. ..ZSpeed Performance Nissan Infinti Performance Parts and OEM
buy a set for 1300 and install at a shop for 5-600. You'll get a reliable setup and be good to go. Or just do the CCS/CMC. I wouldn't put oem back in

MrAurora 07-21-2015 06:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simonsun347 (Post 3262407)
Would like to revive the thread. I think I have a CSC failure. 11' with 40K miles, clutch to floor, towed to shop, thought it's clutch fluid boiling, had them put in Z1 SS line and Motul600, bled it, perfectly okay for two weeks, only to jump in to a soft clutch again. Fluid went from max to almost min in under two weeks, had them jack it up and they noticed brake fluid leaking from seal of transmission housing to engine block.

now I have two options, either try to have Nissan dealership inspect it and see if it can be covered under powertrain warranty (5yr/60k) or just have the shop do a Z1 CSC delete kit.

For one, I don't want the dealership to drop tranny only to find out it's not covered and have to back on and waste $600 (it's still driveable now). But also concerned on how long the new one will last. At the same time, I love the possibility of dealership covering everything the replace as least the CSC (my clutch should be fine unless it's covered in fluid).

So what do you guys think? I have a spare beater I can drive around in the meantime so downtime is not a concern.

Thanks for input!!!

Not for nothing but i still cannot get my ahead around how the csc is integrated into the throwout bearing, inside the transmission, and is not covered under the driveline warrenty ehich clearly states AND ALL INTERNAL COMPONENTS. It's utter nonsense and really dissapointing. Some dumbass mechanical engineer designed a plastic component for the transmission in a sports car (you don't have to be nostradamus to see the future here) and then when it fails to throw your hands up and say "NOT COVERED" - not a transmission part. Yet when you go look up the csc on thier own site you find it under "transmission parts". For the love of god, you don't have to be so obvious when you screw over your customers...

simonsun347 07-21-2015 10:23 AM

I'm kind of leaning toward the same idea. Just hard to justify almost 2G out of pocket (clutch+flywheel+CSCEK+labor) when there's possibility of dealer covering a new CSC at least which should be good for idk...another 10k miles?

Well that and convincing my girlfriend that I'm doing the right thing. lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1st (Post 3262429)
Z1 CSC delete kit and call it a day. If they are willing to do the work under warranty try and negotiate them doing the labor and you buy the delete kit to have them install. Per Nissan tsb is to replace the fluid with gtr i believe dot5 but its not a fix its a patch.


simonsun347 07-21-2015 10:33 AM

Would you go with HD kit or Z1 delete kit? I have heard both good and bad things on both. I love the idea of Z1 kit on the outside of tranny for future easy access but it needs periodic adjustments. The HD kit seems solid and no maintenance but is still inside housing. any thoughts?

Quote:

Originally Posted by firulice (Post 3262498)
go here. ..ZSpeed Performance Nissan Infinti Performance Parts and OEM
buy a set for 1300 and install at a shop for 5-600. You'll get a reliable setup and be good to go. Or just do the CCS/CMC. I wouldn't put oem back in


simonsun347 07-21-2015 10:37 AM

I'm surprised as well on how inconsistent dealership is. This really should be a no-brainer. I'm in salt lake city and I called one Nissan dealership and they said they will not cover CSC, that's only 3yr/36k. I called the same dealership family just a different location they said they have to pull the tranny and if the CSC is manufacturer defect (how in the world do you determine that anyway, seems very subjective to me), then they will cover under powertrain 5yr /60k but they can't promise. Also I'm afraid my SS clutch line would void my warranty because it's "alteration" to existing factory setup even though it's an improvement.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrAurora (Post 3262688)
Not for nothing but i still cannot get my ahead around how the csc is integrated into the throwout bearing, inside the transmission, and is not covered under the driveline warrenty ehich clearly states AND ALL INTERNAL COMPONENTS. It's utter nonsense and really dissapointing. Some dumbass mechanical engineer designed a plastic component for the transmission in a sports car (you don't have to be nostradamus to see the future here) and then when it fails to throw your hands up and say "NOT COVERED" - not a transmission part. Yet when you go look up the csc on thier own site you find it under "transmission parts". For the love of god, you don't have to be so obvious when you screw over your customers...


zmanelite 07-21-2015 11:10 AM

Is this the kit you guys talking about ?

Exedy Racing Stage 1 Clutch and Flywheel Package WHD CSC Option

simonsun347 07-21-2015 11:30 AM

Yes that's the one from Zspeed, the HD CSC kit.

The other one I'm considering is the CSC delete kit from Z1 here:

Z1 Clutch Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC) Elimination Kit

Quote:

Originally Posted by zmanelite (Post 3262991)


zmanelite 07-21-2015 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simonsun347 (Post 3263001)
Yes that's the one from Zspeed, the HD CSC kit.

The other one I'm considering is the CSC delete kit from Z1 here:

Z1 Clutch Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC) Elimination Kit


Sweet I'll have to bookmark this for if and when mine gives out

eastwest2300 07-21-2015 11:51 AM

why wait to replace it?

I tell you what, it'll be that one time that you're far from home that something happens, then you're REALLY tap dancing.

simonsun347 07-21-2015 01:02 PM

That's true. Last time I was stuck at a highway exit with flat clutch. Let me tell you it's the scariest 15 minutes of my life. Finally a cop car came push me through the underpass with his bumper. :rofl2::rofl2:

still undecided which kit to go with...any thoughts?

Quote:

Originally Posted by eastwest2300 (Post 3263012)
why wait to replace it?

I tell you what, it'll be that one time that you're far from home that something happens, then you're REALLY tap dancing.


frankiev 09-14-2015 09:48 AM

Having the same issue and nissan is refusing to cover the repair . The woman from nissan didnt want to hear anything she just keep repeating why it wasnt covered . I asked about an appeal and she said I could mail a letter to nissan consumer affairs
The previous owner had the exact same problem at 30000mi and the dealer replaced the fluid and sent him on his way . I now have 38000 mi. The previous dealer is far north of me ,too far to go The pedal is about half way down and it dosnt look like much fluid is missing . Also no leaks under the car . The dealer says its prob just the master
Looking for advice on how to proceed.

JARblue 09-14-2015 10:12 AM

If you're comfortable DIYing, I recommend replacing the master yourself. The space is kinda cramped, but it's not terribly difficult. Add new fluid and bleed and see where the pedal is at that point. I've had to replace my master every 20-30K miles; it's getting ridiculous.

If you can't get the pedal right once you're done bleeding, then you're probably going to have to replace the slave. At least the time spent on the master isn't wasted since the master should be replaced whenever you replace the slave anyway.

Since you mentioned another dealership has a history with the car trying to fix this problem, then I would definitely contact them. If they are not a typical dealer$hit just in it for the $$$, they might actually acknowledge that this was a problem that originally occurred prior to the warranty period expiring and might even be willing to fix it for you. Of course, this is going to be dependent on you be able to get the vehicle to them.

frankiev 09-14-2015 10:47 AM

I just called the prev dealer and for some reason theres no mention of changing the fluid . If I had to guess Id say they didnt note it bec it was only a a bandaid and not the correct fix
It looks like the master is a couple of bolts and its out or is that just the resv.
I asked the local dealer and he said its possible to cause brake issues if not replaced correctly since theyre tied together . Ive done master cyc replacements b4 .
Is it necc to bleed the master b4 installation or ?

JARblue 09-14-2015 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankiev (Post 3308679)
I just called the prev dealer and for some reason theres no mention of changing the fluid . If I had to guess Id say they didnt note it bec it was only a a bandaid and not the correct fix

Not surprising :shakes head:

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankiev (Post 3308679)
It looks like the master is a couple of bolts and its out or is that just the resv.

You don't need to remove the reservoir. Two bolts from the engine bay side hold the CMC to the firewall. There is also a fork and clevis pin that attaches to the clutch pedal. You will have to go down in the footwell to disconnect it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankiev (Post 3308679)
I asked the local dealer and he said its possible to cause brake issues if not replaced correctly since theyre tied together.

:icon14: I'm pretty sure that dealer is fuckin clueless. I wouldn't bother calling them about anything in the future; find a better independent shop. The clutch hydraulic system and the brake hydraulic system are completely independent.


Quote:

Originally Posted by frankiev (Post 3308679)
Ive done master cyc replacements b4 .
Is it necc to bleed the master b4 installation or ?

It is necessary? Not really. But bench bleeding the master before installation definitely helps speed up the bleed process once the install is done.

eastwest2300 09-15-2015 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simonsun347 (Post 3263071)
That's true. Last time I was stuck at a highway exit with flat clutch. Let me tell you it's the scariest 15 minutes of my life. Finally a cop car came push me through the underpass with his bumper. :rofl2::rofl2:

still undecided which kit to go with...any thoughts?

I got on zspeed's website, talked to joe, got the replacement CSC (aftermarket) new southbend stage 2 clutch, and flywheel.. did the whole setup.

I did all of this before my oem CSC failed.. didnt wanna take any chances.

frankiev 09-15-2015 04:55 PM

I called nissan yesterday and claim was denied so I called back and a supv(LOL) called me back and denied it also . I called back and they wont escalate it any further . Both were women who have no idea what a slave cyclinder is .
Can those of you who had success getting it covered give some tips ?

JARblue 09-15-2015 06:32 PM

The only way I know that a dealer will cover it outside of the 36K mile warranty is through what they call "good will" coverage. If you are a good enough customer (i.e. spend lots of money on cars or service or both), they might take care of you.

I've heard of some guys getting it covered within the 60K mile powertrain warranty, but I'm not convinced they didn't get the "good will" service.

rlharris 09-21-2015 02:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by radensb (Post 2692249)
Hi guys,

Hi guys,

My story is the same as everyone else's. I got my 370Z used with 26750 miles. TWO WEEKS later, the CSC failed. The car still had 4.5 month under the 5yr/60,000mi warrentee, but Nissan said that the CSC was not covered under the powertrain warrantee.

I did my homework.... and I'm stubborn.

Now, eventually, the dealership I got the car from recognized that they had to cover the repairs as I was still in their 30 day "they have to cover all repairs" window, so I didn't actually have to deal with Nissan directly, however, I learned some valuable information that I figured I would share so others in this situation with Nissan have some ammunition to argue their case. Items that are BOLD and UNDERLINED are of pivotal importance.

1) For completeness, owners of pre-used cars are covered:
https://owners.nissanusa.com/content...2009_N_WIB.pdf

Quote:
This warranty is provided to the original and subsequent
owner(s) of a Nissan vehicle originally distributed by
Nissan which is originally sold by a Nissan authorized
Nissan dealership in the United States, and which is
registered in the U.S. and normally operated in the
United States (including Alaska and Hawaii), the United
States territories (specifi cally Guam, Saipan, American
Samoa, Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands), and
Canada.

This warranty is generally transferable from the
original ‘owner other than a Nissan dealer’ (OWNER)
to subsequent owners of the vehicle at any time
ownership of the vehicle is transferred, without any
action on your part; except that this warranty is not
transferable but is instead VOID if during the fi rst
six months after delivery to the original OWNER: (1)
ownership of the vehicle is transferred from the original
OWNER,
and
(2) the vehicle is registered outside of
the United States

So you are covered, even if you are not the original owner.

2) Referring to Nissan's own Factory Warrentee Manual regarding the Powertrain warrantee:

Quote:
The Powertrain coverage period is 60 months or 60,000
miles, whichever comes first.
• This warranty covers any repairs needed to correct defects
in materials or workmanship.
• Powertrain coverage applies to components listed below,
supplied by Nissan except for those items listed under the
caption “WHAT IS NOT COVERED”.

TRANSMISSION AND TRANSAXLE
Case and all internal parts, torque converter and converter
housing, automatic transmission control module, transfer case and all internal parts, seals and gaskets, clutch cover
and housing, and electronic transmission controls.

DRIVETRAIN
Drive shafts, final drive housing and all internal parts,
propeller shafts, universal joints, bearings, seals and
gaskets.

WHAT IS NOT COVERED
DAMAGE, FAILURES OR CORROSION DUE TO
ACCIDENTS, MISUSE OR ALTERATIONS
This warranty does not cover damage, failures or corrosion
resulting from:
• Accident, theft, fire, driving through water (including
engine water ingestion) or misuse, which includes
racing of any sort whatsoever (Proper use is outlined
in your OWNER’S MANUAL).
• Alteration, tampering or improper repair.
• Installation of non-Nissan approved accessories or
components.
• Improper installation of any Nissan approved or
aftermarket accessory or component.
• Glass breakage, unless resulting from defects in
material or workmanship.
• Normal wear and tear, including dings, dents, chips
or scratches.

ALTERED OR UNCERTAIN ODOMETER MILEAGE
This warranty does not cover repair of any vehicle or any part
of a vehicle whose odometer mileage has been altered, or the
odometer repaired or replaced and the actual vehicle mileage
cannot be correctly and readily determined.

SALVAGE TITLE
This limited warranty does not apply to any vehicle, and is
rendered VOID if the vehicle is (or ever has been) issued a
“salvage” or similar title under any state’s law; or has ever been
determined to be a “total loss” or equivalent by any insurance
company, such as by payment of a cash payment of claim in lieu
of repairs because of a determination that the cost of repairs
exceeded the actual cash value of the vehicle.
DAMAGE, FAILURES OR CORROSION FROM
ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS

This warranty does not cover damage, failures or corrosion
resulting from:
• Stone chipping, chemical fallout (acid rain), tree sap, salt,
hail, wind-storm, lightning, flood or other environmental
conditions.

The items listed below are not covered under corrosion
coverage (perforation from corrosion).
• Exhaust system components.
• Corrosion of outer trim parts, such as moldings.

However, corrosion of outer trim parts is warranted for
12 months or 12,500 miles, whichever comes first.
• Corrosion other than perforation, such as cosmetic
or surface corrosion due to defects in materials
or workmanship. This is covered under the Basic
Coverage of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
• Special bodies or equipment not manufactured or
supplied by Nissan.

DAMAGE, FAILURES OR CORROSION DUE TO LACK
OF OR IMPROPER MAINTENANCE
This warranty does not cover damage, failures or corrosion
resulting from:
Lack of performance of proper maintenance services as
outlined in your NISSAN SERVICE & MAINTENANCE
GUIDE.
Use of improper or dirty fuel, fluids or lubricants.
Use of parts not equivalent in quality or design to parts
supplied by Nissan.

MAINTENANCE SERVICE EXPENSE
This warranty does not cover normal maintenance services
as specified in your NISSAN SERVICE & MAINTENANCE
GUIDE such as engine tune-up; cleaning and polishing; wheel
alignment; headlight aiming; replacement of filters, replacement
of windshield wiper inserts, replacement of key fob batteries,
lubricants, coolant; worn brake shoes, pads, drums and rotors
and worn clutch discs.
SEAT BELTS, TIRES, DROP-IN BEDLINERS AND

EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM
Seat belts, tires, drop-in bedliners and the emission control
system are not covered by this warranty, but are covered by
separate warranties.
NISSAN SPRAY-IN BEDLINERS
Nissan Spray-in Bedliners will be repaired to commercially
acceptable standards which may include minor appearance
differences from the original bedliner.
(See following pages for
separate
warranties which may apply to your Nissan, such as those covering vehicle emissions,
seat belts, and tires.)

The powertrain warrantee for the transmission includes "Case and all internal parts". The CSC is internal to the bellhousing (which is part of the rest of the transmission) and therefore an "internal" part. It is also a bearing. The exclusions make NO MENTION of any clutch components except for the clutch discs in the MAINTENANCE SERVICE EXPENSE section.

3) Nissan tried telling me that the CSC was not a powertrain component and therefore not covered under the powertrain warrantee. The CSC is Nissan part#: 306A1-JK40D, and listed under the parts category TRANSMISSION CASE & CLUTCH RELEASE which is under the parent category POWER TRAIN [F]. Their OWN part documentation classifies the CSC as a powertrain part.

2009 Nissan 370z Coupe OEM Parts - Nissan USA eStore Part# 306A1-JK40D

I have heard of others in this thread and their success getting Nissan to recognize that the CSC falls under the powertrain warrantee. I was armed with all this material to make it clear that this part should be covered. When it comes down to it, anyone presented with this documentation who still tried to deny that the CSC was not a covered part would just make themselves sound like a complete idiot. There is not much to argue. Shove their own documentation down their throat and insist that they hold up their end of the deal by supporting your car!


Quote:
Powertrain warrantee still valid? [YES]
Part not defined as an exclusion or maintainance exclusion? [YES]
Defective part classified as a Powertrain component? [YES]

CASE CLOSED!

Having just gone thru this I had to point out all the flaws in this argument, although your bold text wouldn't copy [sorry], because the only part of the entire driveline that refers to where the CSC is located, is this

TRANSMISSION AND TRANSAXLE
Case and all internal parts, torque converter and converter
housing, automatic transmission control module, transfer case and all internal parts, seals and gaskets, clutch cover
and housing
, and electronic transmission controls.

And what it specifically does not say is "and all internal parts" because that would include the clutch which in a sports car is and should be subject to abuse. The transmission case and internal parts is the transmission itself and has nothing to do with the clutch housing between the trans and the engine. Because the specific part number is under the driveline coding does not mean it's covered because it is, because you'll also find the clutch disc under the same breakdown, which is definitely not covered, nor is the pressure plate if found it has been subjected to abuse. And lets face it, if you're not abusing it, go buy a Ford Focus, you have no business driving a manual Z ;)


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:49 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2