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Crush Washer?

So I finally did my first oil change today at 1775 mi. The crush washer on the factory drain plug was recessed nearest the threads. So I proceed to install

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Old 06-27-2009, 03:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Crush Washer?

So I finally did my first oil change today at 1775 mi. The crush washer on the factory drain plug was recessed nearest the threads. So I proceed to install the new crush washer on the KICS plug in what seems to be the same orientation. Is this right or does it matter? Of course I start thinking about this after I've put the new oil in and reinstalled the 900+ screws in the plastic cover.

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Old 06-27-2009, 03:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Thats right. Larger radius side to the block and smaller to the bolt. You should be able to look at it from the top and still see the flange of the smaller radius side as the OEM one is in your picture.
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Old 06-27-2009, 03:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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That drain plug looks awefully aluminumy - if that's the case I'd put the flatish side on the face of the bolt.....
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Old 06-27-2009, 04:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The way you have it is correct. There's a little notch on one side -- you thread the plug into the side with the notch. It's kinda idiot proof, actually. Hard to tell from the pic, but the way these washers are designed, it 'naturally' goes on one way. I'm curious though -- why didn't you use the washer that came with the plug? The KICS washers ship with its own crush washer.
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Old 06-27-2009, 04:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The KICS washers looked like ordinary flat washers. The crush washer I ended up using came straight from the dealership. Here's a pic of everything I used.


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Old 06-27-2009, 05:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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^haha just like AK :P
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Old 06-28-2009, 02:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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... so is that drain plug aluminum then?
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Old 06-28-2009, 08:49 AM   #8 (permalink)
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It didn't feel light weight when I installed it. But then again I'm sure the magnet insert is heavy. Can anyone on this board read the Japanese writing on the package?
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Old 06-28-2009, 10:04 AM   #9 (permalink)
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It looks anodized and as far as I know you can only anodize Aluminum... so if it is I wonder how much you can crush the copper washer before you strip the aluminum threads
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Old 06-29-2009, 09:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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So, as semtex asked, why not just use the washer that comes with the plug?

In fact, even if you don't use the magnetic plug, why not just switch to a flat nylon washer (like many cars have) that can be re-used at each oil change? Is there anything that sacred about the copper crush washer?
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Old 06-22-2015, 10:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Default Copper O-Ring

For those that DIY oil changes, whenever you replace the copper o-ring on the drain plug, do you have a hard time getting it to go all the way down? Most of the time, it will go down to the second to last thread, but not completely down to the bottom of the bolt?
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Old 06-22-2015, 10:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Sounds like you need a bigger hammer.
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Old 06-22-2015, 11:06 PM   #13 (permalink)
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that's fine. once you tighten the bolt and oring washer would be crushed and sit flush. make sure you put in the oring washer correctly.

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Originally Posted by vtec to vvel View Post
For those that DIY oil changes, whenever you replace the copper o-ring on the drain plug, do you have a hard time getting it to go all the way down? Most of the time, it will go down to the second to last thread, but not completely down to the bottom of the bolt?
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Old 06-22-2015, 11:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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yup everytime...it will crush into place
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Old 06-22-2015, 11:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
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How are you placing the copper wash on the drain plug?
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