Steering lock problem solved (for real)

SouthArk370Z · 12-30-2012, 01:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sevens370Z

I seemed to be having he steering lock issue. My question is, does the steering lock keep the car from going into ACC or just ON?

SLU failure will allow the car to go to neither ACC nor ON.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sevens370Z

I changed the battery last night and cranked the car right up. Now, she won't make a sound. Lights are good, interior lights are good, and the car locks and unlocks with the remote. But, pushing the start button......NOTHING.

Sounds a lot like SLU failure.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sevens370Z

I tried locking and unlocking the driver side door as recommended by the service manager @ Nissan. Still, nothing.

As far as I know, that will have no effect on the SLU problem.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sevens370Z

Also, the steering wheel is NOT locked. Moves freely.

If the SLU locking pin does not retract completely, the wheel will be unlocked, but the microswitches are out of synch.

Is the Intelligent Key warning (to the left of the VID (outside temp, MPG, &c)) on? Won't go to ACC or ON? No whirr from the SLU when you press the start button? If all those are happening, you have SLU failure.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sevens370Z

I removed the fuse, and still nothing.

You have to pull the fuse after you get the SLU to let the car go to ON or ACC. If the SLU is not making the microswitches properly, it does no good to pull the fuse. See my thread at Links to posts about Steering Wheel Lock for links to more info.

Stosh Rickles · 01-14-2013, 04:31 PM

Question: I assumed I didn't have SLU issues the first two times my Z failed to start because re-charging/replacing the car battery started the car. Now, on its third failure to start, I can't get it into ACC, which assumedly means SLU problems. Is there a reason why disconnecting and replacing the car battery could have worked before, but not now?

BTW, nice compilation of symptoms below SouthArk, thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

SLU failure will allow the car to go to neither ACC nor ON.

Sounds a lot like SLU failure.

As far as I know, that will have no effect on the SLU problem.

If the SLU locking pin does not retract completely, the wheel will be unlocked, but the microswitches are out of synch.

Is the Intelligent Key warning (to the left of the VID (outside temp, MPG, &c)) on? Won't go to ACC or ON? No whirr from the SLU when you press the start button? If all those are happening, you have SLU failure.

You have to pull the fuse after you get the SLU to let the car go to ON or ACC. If the SLU is not making the microswitches properly, it does no good to pull the fuse. See my thread at Links to posts about Steering Wheel Lock for links to more info.

SouthArk370Z · 01-14-2013, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stosh Rickles

Question: I assumed I didn't have SLU issues the first two times my Z failed to start because re-charging/replacing the car battery started the car. Now, on its third failure to start, I can't get it into ACC, which assumedly means SLU problems. Is there a reason why disconnecting and replacing the car battery could have worked before, but not now?

BTW, nice compilation of symptoms below SouthArk, thanks.

Just guessing here, but, if you're having an SLU problem, disconnecting the battery may merely give the SLU another chance to retract fully. I doubt that disconnecting the battery has any effect and it's just coincidence. But I'm just guessing.
I'd try rapping/beating on the SLU until you can get the car into ACC/ON, then pull the fuse (or install a harness or cut the wire).

You're welcome.

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