I took my 2009 to the Dealer this past week and they told me my car had a Recall. I asked if it was the Steering lock.

I told them that it was replaced about 3 to 4 yrs .ago.

The Service Coordinator told me that Nissan told them they have to replaced mine again because of a new REV. They had to order the part which already came in.

So I'm not sure what is still going on with this issue..... but all 370Z Steering lock issue should be covered by Nissan :confused: :confused:

As a late model 2010 production car. Nissan DID NOT cover my steering lock. I was incredibly frustrated by this. As mine "Did not fall under warranty". I will be pulling the fuse out after the 12 month parts warranty on the new one expires as I have 0 faith in it.

I hit this issue a month ago and pulled the fuse - the car had no issues until a week ago when it refused to start for about 5 minutes flashing the key light, and then this morning it is completely locked up again.

I'm 99% sure the correct fuse was pulled, but it's pouring rain today (of course) so I can't check. As far as I'm aware, there is no way that the steering lock could even get power without the fuse (please correct me if I am wrong) so I'm not sure how it is locked up again unless the wrong fuse was pulled somehow.

Anyone have any ideas?

If you can hear a whirring noise from the ESCL when the car starts and shuts down, then you got the wrong fuse.

Was the ignition in the on position when you pulled the fuse?

key fob battery good?
i know when i removed my fuse recently....the initial sliding/unlocking noise in column was heard before start-up.

Will have to check the fuse later to see, couldn't tell you about the whirring though since I wasn't listening for it unfortunately. Key fob battery should be fine, the car locks/unlocks fine and everything, nothing seems delayed at all

Additionally, the car was actually started when the fuse was pulled, it wasn't just sitting turned off with the ignition set to "On" or "ACC", the engine was running if that makes a difference

As an update, the correct fuse was removed and this issue still came back up. I put the fuse back in and banged on the module again until I could start it and pulled the fuse again.

I've stopped/started the car about 10 times since without any issue, but that still doesn't explain how it occurred with the fuse pulled. Would cutting the brown wire be more permanent and actually work whereas this did not?

nice job on the banging at the steering lock to get it to free itself. I would've just cut da brown wire but datz because I'm lazy.

So is the brown wire fix 100% guaranteed? I just don't want to cut it to have it lock up again and have no way of getting it started afterwards without splicing

Pulling the fuse kills power to the brown wire, ie, they do exactly the same thing.

SouthArk,
Have you removed one of these steering lock assemblies from a Z (in the unlock position)?
Wasn't sure if it had to be on the column to function;as i know when the locking pin retract's,,,it closes contact's on a switch that allows for start-up.
Taking it off completely & having a special relay or something for the plug to go in,would be cool....like a jumper wire connection...
Just a thought.

Removing the supposedly correct fuse while ECSL is retracted and an ESCL that still works/locks don't make sense. Something isn't right.

The ESCL does not have to be mounted to the steering column but it must be plugged in. A relay would solve the switches problem but there is other communication with one (or more) of the control modules (via CAN, IIRC, but wouldn't swear to it). Removing the fuse (or cutting the wire) only kills power to the motor that moves the pin - the electronics are still powered up.

Somebody did an autopsy on an ESCL with pics of the various components. I think I remember there also being some explanations of what the parts did.

yes and yes