That's correct, should be the way that gets around this issue and it has worked for probably 99% of the folks who have done it. As long as the fuse is out, the lock should not be able to engage, I'm just dealing with incredibly bad luck and happenstance.

You've got it Rocxtar. It is meant to be a preventative measure for those whose ESCL has not yet failed. DemandedAce is one of a number of people who've found this thread after their ESCL failed. Beating on the actual module itself (under the steering column) while trying to start the car has been successful for those people in most circumstances. Although he is experiencing something unusual for sure.

DemandedAce, assuming it is the ESCL, I might be tempted to go to a dealership and see if you can't get them to do something for you. Even call corporate and ask for goodwill coverage. Explain that your Rev D unit is failing and is not covered by the recall even though it should be. Nissan gave Rev D unit to late-year 2010 models and early-year 2011 models and then got rid of the ESCL completely after the recall of Rev A, B, and C units. Rev D units are still prone to failure.

Thanks @DemandedAce @Jarblue and everyone involved providing this very useful information. I bought my 09 370z used and I've had it know for 3 years. I've heard issues with this in the past but so far I've been lucky enough. Not sure if whoever had it had this issue resolved by a dealer but in any case I rather take the precaution and remove this "evil" fuse just to be safe. Hopefully next time I turn the ACC on is not when it decides to fail... that would be something.

That's not a bad idea at all man, esp since I can get it working maybe I can just get them to cut it down from the column and leave it dangling (so all the electronics work just not the mechanical side).

If the weather were nicer right now I would be in there myself looking into how to remove it from the steering column, but I just can't bring myself to do it in sub-freezing temps haha

I finally got the chance to do this procedure and it was a success!! Pulling the fuse box and opening the box was the hardest part for me since at first I didn't pull it out far enough. But, slowly and very carefully I was then able to do it.

So, I have an update on my woes. With the fuse pulled for me, it seems that any time the temperature drops under 30 degrees overnight it enters the "locked" state again. However, it is much less seized up than it was prior to me pulling the fuse, and it generally only takes 3-5 light taps on the edge of the module to get it to free up and allow me to start the car.

Does anyone have any idea why cold weather would have this effect with the fuse pulled? The only thing that I can possibly think of is that in the cold the metal retracts and causes it to somehow slide back in and lock - but that's all I've got.

This issue has become infuriating for me that I have to carry a small hammer with me everywhere, and when I go out in the mornings to go to work I have to sit there in the cold hammering this god damn idiotic as #$@% module that Nissan is too much of a jackass to cover

Does the steering wheel lock when you turn the car off (you may have to open driver's door)? If so, you got the wrong fuse.

If the wheel is not locking then it sounds like the pin is moving away from the switches. Only way I can think of to fix that is to remove the ESCL cover (there's at least one DIY on here) and somehow "glue" the pin so it maintains contact with the switches.

I've driven my vehicle a few times after doing this "pull fuse" method and so far I haven't had an issue. However, I can't recall if the weather has been below 30 degrees. I guess I'll have to check once I know for sure that it's at least that cold out.

Unfortunately, I stopped working lock. Can I use the steering lock from another Nissan 370Z? Discard it and return your old steering wheel lock?

No issues on my end, check the use as SouthArk370z metioned. Your car should not enter a lock state if the correct fuse has been removed.

You guys... I'm not a moron lol I know which fuse to pull, it is painfully obvious

IIRC, a dealer would have to re-program the BCM and/or ECM to recognize the new ESCL. You can verify using the FSM (link in my sig).

Even the most experienced mechanic will grab the wrong fuse every now and then. They are packed tight and labeling can be rather cryptic.

Are the power windows on that fuse????

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Oops, meant mirrors.

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