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Steering lock problem solved (for real)

Mod done to my 09. On initial startup after pulling the fuse, I did get the delay, but who cares? I'm at 55K miles and have been waiting for my

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Old 06-02-2012, 01:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Mod done to my 09.
On initial startup after pulling the fuse, I did get the delay, but who cares? I'm at 55K miles and have been waiting for my lock to fail at any time.
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Old 06-02-2012, 01:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i need to do this ASAP
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Old 06-02-2012, 03:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hi,

Euphoria pervades this thread!

I (equally self-congratulatory) think "for real" is misleading and was already done by me. It's better done well away from electrical HQ which takes a lot of time to get at with care...and is slightly risky.

Hence my original thread starter "Steering lock cut the wire/switch optional"

Do not regret the harness ... a fifty very well spent. (not on me!)

The harness or cut the wire: either seems the best solution by far. rhd has an excellent photoset on the thread "Cutting the brownie".

Either way is lightning fast and involves no removal of plastics and IPDM. Add a switch and you have complete flexibility (especially for testing engine problems, and also have security better than Nissan's OE)

[Pressing the brake pedal on an M/6 in neutral, OKs an engine start-up too]

The fuse is a little obvious.
I would not suggest a DIY-er go anywhere near the IPDM area or its fuses.
Lifting it out spells problems for amateurs. Wiring disconnects or shorts, or simple fatigue without great gentle care, (all the wiring is so short) can cost a fortune as in locating the problem(s) and passing blame.

"fuse" sounds great but they are not at all easy to get at amidst a maze of wiring and relays. The IPDM is "not serviceable" (fuses apart) is expensive, and your dealer may ask embarassing questions about a missing fuse at this heart of your electrical systems.....and blame you for everything anywhere.

Further you can not change a switched mode without much work and Interference with the IPDM, but can change everything in minutes with a cut wire, especially on a harness.

Whatever works, works.

Fritz

Last edited by fritz; 06-02-2012 at 03:05 PM. Reason: "already" inserted at the top
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Old 06-02-2012, 03:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by fritz View Post
Hi,

Euphoria pervades this thread!

I (equally self-congratulatory) think "for real" is misleading and was already done by me. It's better done well away from electrical HQ which takes a lot of time to get at with care...and is slightly risky.

Hence my original thread starter "Steering lock cut the wire/switch optional"

Do not regret the harness ... a fifty very well spent. (not on me!)

The harness or cut the wire: either seems the best solution by far. rhd has an excellent photoset on the thread "Cutting the brownie".

Either way is lightning fast and involves no removal of plastics and IPDM. Add a switch and you have complete flexibility (especially for testing engine problems, and also have security better than Nissan's OE)

[Pressing the brake pedal on an M/6 in neutral, OKs an engine start-up too]

The fuse is a little obvious.
I would not suggest a DIY-er go anywhere near the IPDM area or its fuses.
Lifting it out spells problems for amateurs. Wiring disconnects or shorts, or simple fatigue without great gentle care, (all the wiring is so short) can cost a fortune as in locating the problem(s) and passing blame.

"fuse" sounds great but they are not at all easy to get at amidst a maze of wiring and relays. The IPDM is "not serviceable" (fuses apart) is expensive, and your dealer may ask embarassing questions about a missing fuse at this heart of your electrical systems.....and blame you for everything anywhere.

Further you can not change a switched mode without much work and Interference with the IPDM, but can change everything in minutes with a cut wire, especially on a harness.

Whatever works, works.

Fritz
I already understand what you wrote in the other thread,but the diagram has a different opinion that's why I said go back and read it and post it on this thread by posting your opinion doesn't help people reading this, if I'm wrong(and I doubt it)then show me and I'll admit I'm wrong till then buying a $50 harness is insane.
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Old 06-02-2012, 04:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritz View Post
Hi,

Euphoria pervades this thread!

I (equally self-congratulatory) think "for real" is misleading and was already done by me. It's better done well away from electrical HQ which takes a lot of time to get at with care...and is slightly risky.

Hence my original thread starter "Steering lock cut the wire/switch optional"

Do not regret the harness ... a fifty very well spent. (not on me!)

The harness or cut the wire: either seems the best solution by far. rhd has an excellent photoset on the thread "Cutting the brownie".

Either way is lightning fast and involves no removal of plastics and IPDM. Add a switch and you have complete flexibility (especially for testing engine problems, and also have security better than Nissan's OE)

[Pressing the brake pedal on an M/6 in neutral, OKs an engine start-up too]

The fuse is a little obvious.
I would not suggest a DIY-er go anywhere near the IPDM area or its fuses.
Lifting it out spells problems for amateurs. Wiring disconnects or shorts, or simple fatigue without great gentle care, (all the wiring is so short) can cost a fortune as in locating the problem(s) and passing blame.

"fuse" sounds great but they are not at all easy to get at amidst a maze of wiring and relays. The IPDM is "not serviceable" (fuses apart) is expensive, and your dealer may ask embarassing questions about a missing fuse at this heart of your electrical systems.....and blame you for everything anywhere.

Further you can not change a switched mode without much work and Interference with the IPDM, but can change everything in minutes with a cut wire, especially on a harness.

Whatever works, works.

Fritz
you really don't seem to understand the idea behind a fuse then or a fuse box...

The way to pull this fuse is the same way any dealer person would by removal of the box and pulling it out. There is no interference and no issues unless you decide to cut all the wires coming out of it... If you pull the box and see for yourself maybe you'd actually understand.

Also the entire idea of worry over a dealer looking at a missing fuse.. i hope to god you haven't otherwise modified anything on your car because they would definitely look at those more than a missing fuse.. Seriously?

Getting to a fuse is easy btw, if you think its difficult, please never modify anything on your car other than applying a removable sticker to the window. Even then, please consult the manual... as it may prove difficult for you.
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Old 06-02-2012, 03:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I pulled the fuse last week, I had the delay thing happen to me this morning, Ummmmmmmm. Someone needs to figure this out.
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Old 06-02-2012, 04:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I would advise for everyone chatting back and forth on the pros and con's to stop diluting this thread or the other thread!

Both accomplish the same thing and to each his own.

I'm happy with either approach though I went the harness way but nonetheless both work in the end so we need to just keep the focus on that.
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Old 06-02-2012, 04:14 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I would advise for everyone chatting back and forth on the pros and con's to stop diluting this thread or the other thread!

Both accomplish the same thing and to each his own.

I'm happy with either approach though I went the harness way but nonetheless both work in the end so we need to just keep the focus on that.
That is exactly what I want Trip,I was simply asking Fritz if he could go back and reread the wiring diagram to see that fuse 48 does nothing but power the S/L ,I already have an idea what the delay is it is no big deal but I have to reread the diagram myself.

Thanks Triple for getting involved
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Old 06-02-2012, 04:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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i have not noticed anything different.

no delay!
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:35 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I feel like I have to clear some things up after reading last couple pages...first of all, I never meant to raise all this unrest over the start up delay. I think it's a minor issue but still felt it should be brought up to inform everyone and to have some help analyzing. Your car isn't going to blow up because there's a start up delay.

Second point I need to clear up with MY issue is that I have definitely had start up issues when the clutch hasn't been pressed all the way and in those cases the car usually does not start until the start button is pressed AGAIN. I had that issue before pulling the fuse and this delay is definitely NOT that issue.

When I press the button I never change the position of the clutch NOR do I ever press the button again. I press the button once and keep the clutch pressed in. The car starts 3-5 seconds later.

Also important to note, this does NOT happen all the time but seems like it happens more often when the car has been off for a little while.

Baer, I think you now realize that there may be a delay but you were really defensive in the beginning without really reading and understanding my facts. Just realize that I'm not here arguing with you I actually am really appreciative of what you guys discovered and want what's best for the community.

The obvious reason that this start up delay would exist is from the CPU waiting for confirmation/communication of the steering lock but not getting one in a timely manner and "timing out" and starting the car anyway. This doesn't explain why it doesn't happen every single time though, that's what's weird to me at this point.
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:44 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I feel like I have to clear some things up after reading last couple pages...first of all, I never meant to raise all this unrest over the start up delay. I think it's a minor issue but still felt it should be brought up to inform everyone and to have some help analyzing. Your car isn't going to blow up because there's a start up delay.

Second point I need to clear up with MY issue is that I have definitely had start up issues when the clutch hasn't been pressed all the way and in those cases the car usually does not start until the start button is pressed AGAIN. I had that issue before pulling the fuse and this delay is definitely NOT that issue.

When I press the button I never change the position of the clutch NOR do I ever press the button again. I press the button once and keep the clutch pressed in. The car starts 3-5 seconds later.

Also important to note, this does NOT happen all the time but seems like it happens more often when the car has been off for a little while.

Baer, I think you now realize that there may be a delay but you were really defensive in the beginning without really reading and understanding my facts. Just realize that I'm not here arguing with you I actually am really appreciative of what you guys discovered and want what's best for the community.

The obvious reason that this start up delay would exist is from the CPU waiting for confirmation/communication of the steering lock but not getting one in a timely manner and "timing out" and starting the car anyway. This doesn't explain why it doesn't happen every single time though, that's what's weird to me at this point.


I get defensive b/c I know that if it was a electrical issue like waiting for a signal then yes it would do it EVERY time but I have had this issue with my 7AT with the fuse in (b/c I have the upgraded "D" lock) I took a look at the wiring diagrams to see what role the steering lock relay has in this,now on the other thread there have been comments that this is the cause and bad things will happen b/c you Fvcked with the IDPM even though this is there opinion I still think it is reckless to post it on the net b/c everybody reads into it,I'm reading the wiring diagram plus I'm going to go to Nissan and have him read it with the fuse out the Consult 3 ( I know people there personally )so I should get a straight answer.
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Old 06-03-2012, 03:19 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I get defensive b/c I know that if it was a electrical issue like waiting for a signal then yes it would do it EVERY time but I have had this issue with my 7AT with the fuse in (b/c I have the upgraded "D" lock) I took a look at the wiring diagrams to see what role the steering lock relay has in this,now on the other thread there have been comments that this is the cause and bad things will happen b/c you Fvcked with the IDPM even though this is there opinion I still think it is reckless to post it on the net b/c everybody reads into it,I'm reading the wiring diagram plus I'm going to go to Nissan and have him read it with the fuse out the Consult 3 ( I know people there personally )so I should get a straight answer.
look forward on hearing what Nissan has to say...btw i had the delay again this morning. It doesn't happen all the time but it's been happening often enough after removing the fuse that i'm convinced that's the cause bro.

Also, i look at it more as a "computer communication" issue rather than some kind of "electrical" malfunction which is what's scaring people i think but i think we're on the same page with that.
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:51 PM   #13 (permalink)
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i have not noticed anything different either. The time it takes for the car to start is the same as with the lock. It just does not have the sound of the lock before the car starting.
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Old 06-02-2012, 11:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
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i have not noticed anything different either. The time it takes for the car to start is the same as with the lock. It just does not have the sound of the lock before the car starting.
Nice Paul I didn't have it today after car had been off for a day and a half...hopefully I was just dreaming I'll keep you guys posted
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Old 06-03-2012, 02:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
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No delay today. It really doesn't matter to me if there is a delay or not. I pulled the fuse and nothing else out of the ordinary happened so I intend to leave it out . I have a 2009 so I do not want to have any steering lock issues. I think the idea of the steering lock is ridiculous anyway. I have a security system, If they get past that, they are going to steal the car anyway. I had a friend with a MKIV Supra with about 30 K extra stuff invested. One night when he was at the Olive Garden a flat bed pulled up , put some chains on the back and pulled it up , dragging it accross the parking space and up onto the truck, then gone.
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