part ordered yesterday was rev E, i'll let you know when it dies too :shakes head:

If we are on revision "E" just put it in and pull the fuse don't be like the others.

I had a Rev.E installed last week. I'll be sure to pull the fuse this time around since I'm out of warranty

:tup:

For such a simple fix its just not worth it. I figure if they haven't fixed it by Rev. C then Rev.E won't be worth a damn.

Don't forget there was a "D" before "E"

I'm putting my money on Rev.G

I"ll put my money on the fuse , I think I"ll win.:tup:

i'm putting my $ on rev Z cause its a Z lol

My money is on Rev. Ike - "You can't lose with the stuff I use!"

All of you, regardless of which Rev you have ( I had Rev D installed under warrantee) JUST PULL THE DAMN FUSE!! I pulled mine several months ago and there are NO NEGATIVE EFFECTS from pulling it. When you get stranded - and there is a good chance that you will - you will feel pretty foolish that you knew about this free and easy fix and didn't do it.

Just sayin'

AZ

I'm with you. Mine failed about a month ago and up until then, guess I was oblivious, I hadn't heard anything about even though the smallest bit of research will reveal both the problem and various solutions. Just recently this topic has been posted to death and people still are unsure what to do. PULL THE FUSE, pre failure or post failure. I've already proven that it can be done after your steering lock has failed. There is absolutely NO reason to pay out of pocket or to even deal with the headache of getting it properly repaired. That being said, Nissan should've handled this a long time ago.

:iagree: I just beat my lock to death until it worked it again..

got it back today, rev E installed. set me back $1119. year warranty parts and labor. 1 year from today fuse is coming the **** out!

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...204_154919.jpg

^^ that's RevD. JF00D

congrats anyway. :tup:

ok, just saw it had EEEEEEE all over the place :icon17:

:tup:

glad you got it all fixed, now you need to do the fix to prevent it from happening again. :tiphat:

steering lock
 

Hello all..Does any one actually know if there is as date certain, either by vin # or date of manufacture that the lock problem has been resolved?( I have an april 2011 made date for my Z.) Thanks in advance..RoddyRacer

Cursory research shows this part has failed in all of its iterations. The 2013 does not even have this part on the chassis.

***********Get rid of it, pull the fuse, install the bypass harness, cut the wire. **********************

You will not impact ANYTHING at all. No insurance problems etc. You are not immune from this as long as this part is actively working on your car.

:iagree:

Just completed a Nissan survey and sent it back with a note requesting Nissan to issue a recall for SLF or extend the warranty for same. They wrote back, playing dumb, as if the incidence of this failure was so tiny they weren't even aware of it. That's awful.
I was thinking about buying my wife the new Maxima in 2014/2015 when it comes out. Their approach to this SLF has made me have very serious second thoughts.

I have read so much on this issue that I'm having trouble remembering all of it. I seem to remember that the ignition must be in the "on" position when you pull the fuse. Is this correct, or can you pull the fuse with the ignition off?

You have to pull the fuse when the lock pin is retracted - ie, when the car is on.
With foot off brake, push start button until you hear the SLU pin retract and the indicator says ON. Jump out of the car and pull the fuse (you only have a few minutes to pull the fuse or the SLU pin will extend again, so have the IPDM out before you begin procedure). Turn the car off and close the driver door - should be golden silence. Start car. :driving:

According to the Technical Bulletin issued in April 2012, these are the affected vehicles:

2011 – 2012 Altima Sedan, Coupe & Hybrid (L32, CL32, & L32HV)
2011 – 2012 Maxima (A35)
2011 – 2012 370Z Coupe (Z34) – Roadster not included
2011 – 2012 Murano (Z51) - Cross cabriolet not included
2012 GT-R (R35)

Model Year Applied VINs – on or: After Before

370Z 2011 JN1AZ4EH(*)BM 551888 JN1AZ4EH(*)BM 555448
Coupe 2012 JN1AZ4EH(*)CM 560001 JN1AZ4EH(*)CM 560470

GT-R 2012 JN1AR5EF(*)CM 251149 JN1AR5EF(*)CM 251373

Murano 2WD 2011 JN8AZ1MU(*)BW 060046 JN8AZ1MU(*)BW 070370 2012 JN8AZ1MU(*)CW 100001 JN8AZ1MU(*)CW 101250

Murano 4WD 2011 JN8AZ1MW(*)BW 170078 JN8AZ1MW(*)BW 188648 2012 JN8AZ1MW(*)CW 200001 JN8AZ1MW(*)CW 201900

2011 1N4(*)L2(***)BC 143037 1N4(*)L2(***)BC 185867

Two assembly lines 1N4(*)L2(***)BN 463258 1N4(*)L2(***)BN 517167
1N4(*)L2(***)CC 100000 1N4(*)L2(***)CC 147708
Altima Sedan, Coupe, and Hybrid 2012
Two assembly lines 1N4(*)L2(***)CN 400000 1N4(*)L2(***)CN 452245
Maxima 2011 1N4AA5AP(*)BC 830692 1N4AA5AP(*)BC 869861 2012 1N4AA5AP(*)CC 800000 1N4AA5AP(*)CC 804635

This Technical Bulletin is located at Nissanhelp.com reference NTB12-041

Does this list not include '09 and '10 370 Z coupe's? They aren't listed. I though guys posted as having had failures in '09 and '10 models.

Nice find. Here's hoping you get an answer to your question at NissanHelp.

I can't answer why previous models were not listed on the Tech. Bulletin. Perhaps an ECU change or programming modification of some sort in 2011. I guess that's what concerns me is that NTB12-41 appears to correct the issue with a programming change or reflash of the Body Control Module on the later model vehicles.

Wonder of that's why Nissan people thought I was off base when I complained about this failure as a potential problem for my '09? Possibly, the person at the other end looked at this TSB and felt it had no relevance to my car.

Very interesting, I have the car going in for service on Friday, and will have to ask them about that bulletin, from all the discussion I thought it did not apply to the 2012s

You know why, most 09s are going to be out of warranty......

Mine was still under warranty at the time. Nevertheless, for out-of-pocket payment repair situations, the TSB should include all effected models, whether or not still under warranty.

Is there a youtube video with instructions on where/which fuse to pull?

As far as I can tell, no. :(

370z steering lock fuse - YouTube


But it truly is very easy to do if you follow the instructions given in several threads on this site. Heck, even I could figure it out. Took me about 15 minutes and I appear to be one of the slow ones.

Nvmind.. 1st pg.. duhhhhh

Where is the fuse? I'm sure this has been covered but driving and can't look over 18 pages to find it! :)

It's in the battery compartment, between the battery and fender. You have to remove the plastic "bezel" that holds the battery cover, but it only requires a small-medium flatblade screwdriver. A fuse puller or small pliers comes in handy.

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...heel-lock.html

Do we have to cut the wire or just pull the fuse is good enough?

both methods work, you just gotta do one of them :tup:

Pulling the fuse does the same thing* as cutting the wire, so you only need to do one or the other. I recommend removing the fuse - a little more work, but it's easy to put back to normal if the need ever arises.
If you prefer stopping power at the SLU, I suggest using the harness that someone is selling. It's plug-n-play, so you can put everything back to factory condition just by removing the harness. It also provides connectors to add a switch so you can easily control power to the SLU (why anyone would want to do that, I dunno, but it's there).

* Actually it does a little more. Pulling the fuse also kills an internal signal to the IPDM's CPU, but no one has reported any problems other than an occasional short pause between pressing the start button and the engine cranking.

The pause has also been reported from people who have not even touched the steering lock though.

Just eliminate that stupid lock before it leaves you stranded!