It's something you should take care of if you have one still, it is not needed and it will cause you more frustration and $ in the end if you don't get rid of it ASAP!

yes there is one documented 40th with this issue.

The 40th is no different then any other Z though it's the same car just with a few add on features. The steering lock is the same rev as any other so it will be just as prone to the problems as any other 09, 10 or 2011 Z. So again I would suggest getting that F*CKING stupid lock taken care of before you find yourself stranded like some others have been!

As I posted a few back, my steering lock mechanism failed and it's a 40th. I am also having the fuel gauge sender problem.

:eek::icon14:

:iagree:

I like this post.

Mine took its dive on Friday last week :/

25225 when failed
2010 40th Anniversary
Listed as "steering lock assembly has internal failure, replaced steering lock assembly"

Thankfully I am still under warranty! My dealership was prepared I guess, because they got it in around noon and I had it back at 4.

Guess I can be added to the list as the 2nd 40th to experience this issue. I just recently found this thread so maybe someone could tell me....are there many 2010 models that have had this happen?

Will you pull the fuse now?

If its as useless as everyone claims I might as well.

The current Z -2013 does not have it....so dont delay.

My 2010 40th Anniversary went out yesterday. I'm around 38,000-40,000 miles. I'm told I'm outside my warranty (36,000) and it will cost of over $1,000.

My "steering lock control unit" went out, that is.

I am sure that there's been more then the three 40ths that have had this issue.

There's many ways you can eliminate the problem (3 to be exact). You can pull the fuse, cut the brown wire or buy the harness from bdl99 at the carkitcompany.com :tup: all ways to eliminate that stupid steering lock!

Pulling the fuse is the easiest route, so I think that'll be my fix :)

Mine failed, luckily still within warranty. I had a repair schedule for Monday anyway, I guess the car will now get an entrance with a flat bed. I was going to pull the fuse, but kept putting it off as it has been cold. I guess I will at least have a good one so I can rip it off and part it out later if possible :)

Good thing it was under warranty:tup:, that would have been a huge :facepalm: to have happen out of warranty and have to cough up the $$


With the new one are you still going to do one of the three fixes?

Yeah, well I never rushed to get it done because I know I am still under warranty. As soon as March comes, I am sure I will rush to get it done. Yeah I will end up pulling the fuse one night. It's tough with a new born.

I hear ya! any one out of warranty should do it ASAP!



Congrats on the baby! hope your getting some sleep :tup:

It was more inconvience than anything else. My car died at the coffee shop, one mile from the house.

Anyone know how long to wait for a new lock?

Also thanks

Can someone explain to me the purpose of the steering lock other than causing problems for us? If you remove the fuse or cut the brown wire, what is the worst that can happen?

Supposed to bee an extra security feature so people can't easily push, pull your car onto a flatbed. However, if someone has gone to enough trouble to get into you're car without the alarm going off, then that stupid lock won't stop then

Btw, thank god you can still steer the car. It would have been bad if you can't steer the car while trying to get it onto the flat bed. I almost wanted to go home and grab a hammer to get it started, but then I guess I might as well make Nissan pay for a new one while I can.

Do everyone a favor, file a complain and force a recall
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/Vehicl...nt/index.xhtml

:iagree: we need more of us to complain about this issue :tup:

seriously. everyone here who's experienced this needs to file this complaint

Mine just failed Thursday.
2009 370Z Touring/Sport 18,500 Miles. Rev.A
Failed 2 weeks after the warranty expiration, dealer stepped up and will be covering it under warranty anyway.
At this point no ETA when my car will be repaired.

:eek: another one bites the dust

Took my '09 370 in today for the dealership to pull the fuse. They were bewildered. After I showed them copies of posts from this forum, the finally figured it out but are making a big deal out of it and are dragging their feet on doing it. They're now willing, but since they have to remove the surrounding part of the cover out to get to the fuse box on the wheel side of the battery, they are saying it will take "at least an hour of tech's time" and will have to bill accordingly. I have no choice as tomorrow is last day of warranty. But doesn't an hour sound a bit too much time for this simple task, or am wrong? I can't do anything like this myself (lawyering is my trade), so I'm stuck.

it literally takes 5 minutes i dont know why you would put yourself through going to the stealership. so now your probably going to have to pay them for doing something you could have done and saved money theres a thread that shows you how to do it

Did two cars in 5 minutes at one of our coffee meets this summer.... it's not a technical or difficult thing to do...

Just called my local longtime mechanic who changes my oil, etc. He agrees with you and will take a look tomorrow morning and hopefully do it for me then. Thanks for the tip off.

As others have noted, it's a five minute job _if you are confidant_. If you are a bit timid about messing up a customer's car doing a procedure that is not in the manual, up to fifteen minutes. Some shops have a one hour minimum, but it's not a one hour job. Personally, I don't have a problem paying a $50-60 minimum - as long as my problem is fixed.

I'm a bit surprised that they have not at least heard of the yank-the-fuse fix. Small shop?

Medium sized Nissan franchise but they don't sell many "exotic" cars, like Z's and absolutely no GT-R's here---semi-rural Western Pennsylvania. They really drew a blank and had to read my print outs of forum postings to figure out the fuse location, etc. Werent even aware of the steering lock failure phenomenon. Nice guys though. Hopefully, my corner garage buddy will yank it tomorrow in exchange for a lunch with him at Appleby's!

Nissan was going to remove the fuse from the fuse box located under the hood in the battery compartment on the driver's side. They showed me two black fuse boxes under there, and they claim the steering lock fuse is in the fuse box to the left of the battery (wheel side). Does this sound like they know what they're doing or is the fuse box at another location. They said the other fuse box in that battery compartment did not contain the steering lock fuse., That fuse box was easy to access. To get into the fuse box where they say the steering lock fuse is located, they say they have to remove a plastic framing piece that sort of frames in the battery cover. If they didn't have to remove that whole piece to get to the fuse box, it would only take a few minutes. Do they know what the heck they are talking about? My corner mechanic is following my guidance and hoping to find the fuse in that hard to get to fuse box.

That's it. It's called IPDM-E/R in the service manuals. Fuse is on the bottom left when you get the cover off. Check the cover for a diagram showing each fuse and look for "Steering Lock"

Yes, the frame around the battery cover has to be removed. See one of the DIYs on this site for more info. It's an easy job.

Edit: "on the driver's side" - I'm assuming you meant passenger (right) side.

Yes, thank you and thank you for your "edit." I did mean passenger side.

There's a Technical Service Bulletin out on this issue, its NTB12-041 dated April 27, 2012 that lists the Nissan vehicles affected by this problem and provides instruction for the Tech to reprogram the BCM.

Pardon my ignorance but what's BCM and what does that have to do with the removal of the steering lock fuse?

BCM = Body Control Module

and yeah, explain the details of the TSB....

Yes, please explain details

With any luck I'll talk to my service Rep. today about the TSB.

Below is a reference to this TSB which has something to do with the battery in an Altima??? Could there be an error in the number?

Re: 2011 Altima needs to be powered down and then back up

Postby ZZAltima » Sun Oct 14, 2012 11:47 am
I followed up on this. It turns out that this is a common problem. There is a Nissan Technical Service Bullitin for this. It is TSB-NTB12-041.

FYI another way this problem shows up is that the engine refuses to turn off! Only way to turn it off is to pull the fuel pump fuse. All of us better learn the location of the fuel pump fuse!