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-   -   Those of you who have had Steering Lock Failure (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/48442-those-you-who-have-had-steering-lock-failure.html)

GaleForce 10-24-2012 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kactussjack (Post 1979151)
Just had my column lock replaced this week under warranty. Rev C failed. Replaced with Rev D. Is this the latest rev or is there E,F..... out there?

Going to buy the bypass harness later this week to avoid any furthur hassle. Don't forget - if the lock fails with your windows or top down, they ain't going back up.

We haven't seen any Rev above Rev D.

ocfoilist 11-07-2012 11:39 AM

Another steering lock assembly victim here. I'm not sure what Revision the failed part was but it was replaced with Rev D. I'm at 54,000 miles ('09 Sport/Touring) and the dealer worked with me to get the price out the door down to $972. I don't know if it has been mentioned before but the warranty is 1 year, 12,000 miles for the part.

I guess the fix is in my future as well. Bummer, since it was on my to-do list. I just didn't do it in time.

LMBmikeZ 11-07-2012 03:21 PM

:facepalm:

that's almost as bad as letting a low tire go "just one more trip" - classic final statement............before the tire blows off the rim, or in this case the lock doesn't disengage!

wheee! 11-07-2012 04:29 PM

One of my buddies here in oiltown just had his fail.... after I had offered to remove his fuse for him! Luckily, the dealer covered it for him! ... out of warranty too!

kactussjack 11-07-2012 05:22 PM

Mine failed a couple weeks ago. 17,500 miles on 2010 roadster, rev c. Replaced with rev. d under warranty. The bill to Nissan was around $850 + $85 to my insurance co for the tow. Now has the bypass harness installed for piece of mind.

Don't forget people. If it fails with the windows or top down, you cannot put them up.

And I thought getting out of the C-5 would get me away for steering lock issues.

Lucky1charm 11-14-2012 03:38 PM

Just had mine replaced last week. 2009 Touring Sport, failed at 23,000 miles. $1,100 to repair. Called Nissan, they would not admit there is a problem with the part and would not help with repairs. I also filed a complaint with the NHTSA.

OldGuy 11-14-2012 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onzedge (Post 1522198)
I will let you know. I heard of this guy taking out a nasty door dent on a 370 and it was like 100 bucks.

$100 for one or several dents in your car in one session at my (believe it or not) Acura dealer! And it was a perfect job.

OldGuy 11-14-2012 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mt Tam I am (Post 1940525)
I pulled my 2009's fuse last month. I have the extended warranty but the thought of driving hundreds of miles from home and have to deal with this is not worth the theft prevention aspect.

I'd love it to blow and have it properly repaired while at the dealership, while in for a service. I have Murphy's Law on my side so I preempted it.

Could you please specifically state the number of the fuse, so I can tell my mechanic to pull it before I have the problem. Thanks.

SouthArk370Z 11-14-2012 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldGuy (Post 2016820)
Could you please specifically state the number of the fuse, so I can tell my mechanic to pull it before I have the problem. Thanks.

If I read the FSMs correctly (SEC-127), it's fuse #48. I did mine recently and it's identified with a label that says something close to "Wheel Lock" either next to the fuse (near bottom on left row of fuses) or on the cover. It's not at all difficult to figure out once you get the fuse block out. There is also a DIY on here that explains it.

Edit: Makes sure the mechanic pulls the fuse AFTER the lock retracts (s/he should be able to hear it retract when the car is turned on (not started), it's rather noisy). See the DIY on this site for details.

OldGuy 11-15-2012 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z (Post 2016846)
If I read the FSMs correctly (SEC-127), it's fuse #48. I did mine recently and it's identified with a label that says something close to "Wheel Lock" either next to the fuse (near bottom on left row of fuses) or on the cover. It's not at all difficult to figure out once you get the fuse block out. There is also a DIY on here that explains it.

Edit: Makes sure the mechanic pulls the fuse AFTER the lock retracts (s/he should be able to hear it retract when the car is turned on (not started), it's rather noisy). See the DIY on this site for details.

Thank you. I'm taking your post with me.

edub370 11-15-2012 09:26 AM

.. Still amazed people are having this issue....

scgolfer7 11-15-2012 10:02 AM

The exact name of the fuse on the box is Steering Lock. It is a 10A red fuse.

scgolfer7 11-15-2012 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edub370 (Post 2017337)
.. Still amazed people are having this issue....


Yeah, mine went out last week while I was at a gas station 100 miles away from home. Luckily a few smacks with a pair of pliers and it retracted and I yanked the fuse out.

geddy lee 11-15-2012 12:47 PM

I too can't beleive this is still an issue. I got my 2009 back in April with 11K on it. I was on this website during my lunch at work and read a thread about this problem and solution and got up, went out to the parking lot and pulled the fuse. Took me about 10 minutes. The steering lock isn't going to protect you anyway. If someone wants to steal your car bad enough, they will.
I had a friend with a MKIV Supra with 20 K worth of mods. One night when he was at the Olive Garden , a flat bed pulled up and drug his car across the asphalt and on to the truck. It was all locked up tight along with the steering wheel.
Its useless

SouthArk370Z 11-15-2012 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scgolfer7 (Post 2017410)
The exact name of the fuse on the box is Steering Lock. It is a 10A red fuse.

Thanks for the clarification.


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