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Kenman subscribe to a sushi of the month club with the $200.
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#3 (permalink) | |||
A True Z Fanatic
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![]() $200 will only buy decent sushi for two. ![]() ![]() Quote:
if you dont plan on lowering your car, keep the profile of the sidewall kinda tall. for example dont do 285/30/19 just because you went from 275/35/19. sidewall is the % of the width of tire in mm. so for example 275/35/19 or 275mm x0.35 = 96.3mm height sidewall 285/30/19 or 285mm x0.30 = 85.5mm height sidewall (too short imo). 285/35/19 or 285mm x0.35 = 99.78mm height sidewall (closer to original) i dont know why in the hell they use metric for width, yet inches for diameter. lol ![]() ![]() |
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#4 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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2010 370Z 40 Anniv., 6 MT | Fast Intentions | Swift Springs | SPC | Z1Motorsports | JWM | Redline Oils | 35% Window Tint 2015 Mazda6 | 370ZChicago: Chicago Area Cars & Coffee |
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#5 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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![]() yah, there was at least one member here that had this problem. ive seen this happen before on other forum where their car ran hubcentric wheels like the stock 19's. the stock wheels rely on the metal lip to keep the wheel centered. the lugs only hold the wheel to the hub. aftermarket wheels are often times lug-centric so it only uses the hubcentric lip as an aid to when mounting the wheels onto the car. the wheels are centered onto the hub by the lugs. you dont even need to run hubcentric rings on these wheels unles you get vibration due to poor design of wheel or improper installation. the kics and ichiba's have a separate centering-ring lip and while not as distortion-free or stable as the H&R/Eibachs which is part of the spacer, the separate centering-ring has some 'give' to move around when there is high load on that lip. so ive yet to see any posts about kics/ichiba's breaking. ![]() |
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