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Originally Posted by Lug That may be true but once I put Royal Purple in my engine and my dog died the very next day! I'm just sayin....... so thats
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That last part is good to know, but who arrived at that conclusion -- R&T? To the OP, as an experiment, you might try either the Nissan Ester oil or another band (e.g. Redline) on your next oil change and see if the valve ticking subsides. Kinda curious to see what happens when I switch to the 0-W30 Castrol...
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Enjoy it. Destroy it. Last edited by Jordo!; 08-29-2010 at 03:46 PM. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Anyone have any proof that valvetrain clicking loudness is associated with any problems? I thought not. Sometimes we focus on the sounds our engines make a bit too much. Enjoy your car. You're using acceptable oil.
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My experience was I had some valvetrain click in my engine and my dog died the very next day! ![]()
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0/w30....5/w30.....10/w30.....
there seems to be more oil choices then z's on the road... regular or synthetic...... i'm betting you could run wal-mart super tech "which no one ever will" change it every 3000 miles and it wouldn't make a difference. that statement i know is over kill. but so is the topic of oil. what to use,when to change it, how much is my engine burning if any. ok i'm off my soapbox.sorry to ramble |
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I wouldn’t take that bet because you're right! Old school, but good school and still followed to the tee by many a mechanic on their own vehicles with basic dino.
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I think the ad-pack is as, or more important than the base-stock in many cases. You need good base-stock, but the ad-pack is what makes many oils good for what they are good for (Shell Rotella T for flat tappet, etc. etc.)
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Your engine was already at operating temperature and therefor at a higher viscosity than 0. Why not have Blackstone do a oil analysis for you? I would not increase oil viscosity past Nissan's recommendation.
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