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-   -   how many miles for the 1st oil change? (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/1400-how-many-miles-1st-oil-change.html)

tvfreakazoid 01-19-2009 02:06 AM

Are you saying after the 1200 mile break in period, change the factory oil with regular oil, then after when it hits is 3750 mile mark change it to royal blue?
:wtf2:
Quote:

Originally Posted by dad (Post 21462)
I'm against changing to synthetic so soon. Reason being that the regular oil will help get everything worn and seated quicker than synthetic will. Regular oil is better for the break-in period.


Crash 01-19-2009 03:11 AM

^^^ LOL! You need to join a car club, man! You got a lot of questions that could simply be answered by hanging out with experienced car guys! :D

Synthetic Oil life is about 5K-6K miles. On some cars it's closer to 10K. If you race a lot, then you should change it every 1K miles although I know a lot of people that go until 3K. However, even light street racing wouldn't constitute changing it that early. People who run their cars at the track, hot lap, and/or frequent 120+MPH should change their oil often.

I used to race a STOCK LS1 car and won against many modded cars because I replaced the oil after EVERY night of racing. :) There is a method to the madness.

LiquidZ 01-19-2009 11:30 AM

Based on the responses, I will probably change my original plan. Seems like the consensus is to keep the factory oil until 1250, then change it at 3750, and then use synthetic oil after that.

Lug 01-19-2009 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tvfreakazoid (Post 21565)
Are you saying after the 1200 mile break in period, change the factory oil with regular oil, then after when it hits is 3750 mile mark change it to royal blue?
:wtf2:


Royal Purple

Cown3d 01-19-2009 12:29 PM

royal purple is possibly the worst 'full' synthetic made
its not even a full synthetic...only partial http://www.comprevac.com/products/su...ossref6_03.pdf

its flash point is absolutely terrible compare to other higher priced oils
if you drive your car hard your oil will become nearly water, trust me ive raced road courses for a couple years and used it a few times

Quote from Aaron Lail of Tru dyno spots
"I had some independant tests ran on RP, Mobile 1, and Castrol syntec.

RP was the worst and actually had microscopic metal contaminents from brand new oil! Mobile 1 and syntec came in very close to each other.

I once had a small 4cyl turbo engine running Mobile 1 that had the drain plug come out going down the road somewhere. The engine oil light came on, pulled over to check and it was completely out of oil! Put a new plug in with 4 more quarts of Mobile 1 and never had another problem. That engine is still running today! "



Redline is a good oil
But Eneos, amsoil, and motul are the best you can buy
Enoes---->the oil is polarized which adheres to metal engine components under weight transfer conditions.

AK370Z 01-19-2009 12:44 PM

2 Attachment(s)
How about Motul? Anyone have any experience with them?

http://i2.ebayimg.com/08/i/000/bd/94/9482_1.JPG

Crash 01-19-2009 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cown3d (Post 21693)
But Eneos, amsoil, and motul are the best you can buy
Enoes---->the oil is polarized which adheres to metal engine components under weight transfer conditions.

Interesting... I didn't know about those. +1 Rep

dad 01-19-2009 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cown3d (Post 21693)

RP was the worst and actually had microscopic metal contaminents from brand new oil!

Can you define that?

CrownR426 01-19-2009 12:50 PM

3,000 :driving:

Cown3d 01-19-2009 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dad (Post 21705)
Can you define that?

define? as in specify?

Cown3d 01-19-2009 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cown3d (Post 21693)
royal purple is possibly the worst 'full' synthetic made
its not even a full synthetic...only partial http://www.comprevac.com/products/su...ossref6_03.pdf

its flash point is absolutely terrible compare to other higher priced oils
if you drive your car hard your oil will become nearly water, trust me ive raced road courses for a couple years and used it a few times

Quote from Aaron Lail of Tru dyno spots
"I had some independant tests ran on RP, Mobile 1, and Castrol syntec.

RP was the worst and actually had microscopic metal contaminents from brand new oil! Mobile 1 and syntec came in very close to each other.

I once had a small 4cyl turbo engine running Mobile 1 that had the drain plug come out going down the road somewhere. The engine oil light came on, pulled over to check and it was completely out of oil! Put a new plug in with 4 more quarts of Mobile 1 and never had another problem. That engine is still running today! "



Redline is a good oil
But Eneos, amsoil, and motul are the best you can buy
Enoes---->the oil is polarized which adheres to metal engine components under weight transfer conditions.

quoted because it doesnt need to be at the bottom of the page :hello:

LiquidZ 01-19-2009 01:24 PM

I was wondering about Eneos as well. Never heard of them, and I didn't know Motul made engine oil either.

sensi09 01-19-2009 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tvfreakazoid (Post 21564)
So you don't have to do oil changes every 3k miles anymore on this car?

5K miles with synthetic is a safe interval for daily driving, but can likely go longer. You can get an oil analysis to see how long the oil will properly perform. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

sensi09 01-19-2009 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AK370Z (Post 21699)
How about Motul? Anyone have any experience with them?

http://i2.ebayimg.com/08/i/000/bd/94/9482_1.JPG

On the 350Z, I've used primarily Motul and Mobil1, but from the oil analysis threads on my350Z, Motul is not a very good oil, well at least for the VQ.

dad 01-19-2009 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cown3d (Post 21709)
define? as in specify?

had microscopic metal contaminents < what are they talking about?


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