My motor is dropped, what parts would you change?

[DEpointfive0]

UPDATE, AGAIN!!!
Headers and Z1 parts are in hand!!!

AWSOME!!!

Momentum header order has been placed!
After a LONNNNNNGGGGG and drawn out process... I paid for 3 day shipping to get it Friday to take for install on Saturdayl


So my motor has been dropped to replace a valve head.
So I figure now is the time to install parts...

I have most standard bolt ons, but as of now, I'm thinking:

I decided FOR
Momentum headers
Change all hoses to blue silicone
Change all fluids


I decided AGAINST:
Jun Cams because no one has data
TT or S/C because I don't have that much money
CSF radiator because I don't track on death hot days and I'm not TT or S/C
Mishimoto thermostat because I don't want a CEL or over cooling


To be decided (have to do more research into it):
Larger PS cooler
Transmission cooler
G35/37 thermostat

As for both the mods suggested above, I'd love a PS cooler that can be almost a direct swap, making it easier for the techs to do, and I'd love to see a really good detailed install of a trans cooler

I believe there is a G35/37 OEM thermostat that opens 10 degrees sooner, and supposedly it won't cause a CEL.


Any suggestions or info would be greatly appreciated!


And please don't suggest, bore it out to 4.0L or dry sump or something to that effect, I don't have the time or money for that

[nogoodname]

Headers but you already mentioned it.

What about the transmission? Do you need to change the clutch yet or upgrade it? It's probably out too?

[cooltoy]

What about that fuel pump that eliminates fuel starvation?

[Chuck33079]

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

I believe there is a G35/37 OEM thermostat that opens 10 degrees sooner, and supposedly it won't cause a CEL.

That's the one I've got. In a box in the garage, so I can't confirm lack of a CEL.

He's got an auto, so no need for a clutch.

Only the motor is out, so the fuel pump wouldn't be (nearly) free labor.

[theDreamer]

A different motor?
Only thing I could think of would maybe be pulley/belt combo, possibly motor mounts (and transmission).

[wstar]

Any chance they're removing the timing chain cover as part of that job? If so, replace the water pump (cheap and easy, should do it anytime that thing is open really), and consider upgrading the oil pump to the Nismo one that's not so likely to grenade at high revs. If it were me (and my circumstances may be different), even if they weren't planning to open the timing chain cover, I'd just take advantage of having the engine out of the bay and do those two things anyways.

[DEpointfive0]

Originally Posted by nogoodname

Headers but you already mentioned it.
What about the transmission? Do you need to change the clutch yet or upgrade it? It's probably out too?

Originally Posted by cooltoy

What about that fuel pump that eliminates fuel starvation?

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

That's the one I've got. In a box in the garage, so I can't confirm lack of a CEL.

He's got an auto, so no need for a clutch.

Only the motor is out, so the fuel pump wouldn't be (nearly) free labor.

exactly.
Can you give me the P/N of the thermostat? Or if you'd like to sell it...

Originally Posted by theDreamer

A different motor?
Only thing I could think of would maybe be pulley/belt combo, possibly motor mounts (and transmission).

Pulley and belts I'll install at a later time at my local shop because it'll be cheaper

Motor/transmission mounts... Thought about those.
My warranty will cover the rubber ones when they fail
My questions are:
What is the REAL purpose? Yes I know that there will be less delay because the rubber flexes, and people say it helps put the power down (or something to that effect) but wouldn't that be temporary until the rubber flex is maxed out?
And if you lock down the transmission (or motor) with solid mounts, do you NEED the other mount?
Example: If I install a trans mount, that will be solid. The motor is BOLTED to the transmission. How much will it them move? Or will it then just put extra stress on the trans mount?

Also, if you were to buy one or the other, which one, and WHY?

Originally Posted by wstar

Any chance they're removing the timing chain cover as part of that job? If so, replace the water pump (cheap and easy, should do it anytime that thing is open really), and consider upgrading the oil pump to the Nismo one that's not so likely to grenade at high revs. If it were me (and my circumstances may be different), even if they weren't planning to open the timing chain cover, I'd just take advantage of having the engine out of the bay and do those two things anyways.

I HIGHLY doubt it, but I'll check and see if it's REALLY worth it to me
And I don't think I'd do the Nismo oil pump due to cost.

[Chuck33079]

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

Can you give me the P/N of the thermostat? Or if you'd like to sell it...


My warranty will cover the rubber ones when they fail
My questions are:
What is the REAL purpose? Yes I know that there will be less delay because the rubber flexes, and people say it helps put the power down (or something to that effect) but wouldn't that be temporary until the rubber flex is maxed out?
And if you lock down the transmission (or motor) with solid mounts, do you NEED the other mount?

I'll try to check when I get home. It's somewhere in the box of "crap I'll install once it's not 105 outside".

Your warranty won't really cover the OEM mounts when they fail, since it'll take way too long for them to ever fail if they haven't already. The car will feel more responsive, since that little bit of slop in the OEM mounts has to be compressed every time you touch the throttle. For lack of a better term, the car will just feel tighter. I would do all of the mounts, since individually I'd doubt you would see enough of a difference to make it worth the effort. As a set, you should feel the change from the rubber mounts.

I know you said solid, but you meant poly, right? Solid motor mounts are for masochists and track cars only.

[critical]

Ps and tranny cooler installs don't need the engine to be dropped but are good ideas. Motor mounts sound good. Thermostat sounds like a bad idea.

[Chuck33079]

Originally Posted by critical

Thermostat sounds like a bad idea.

Any particular reason why? A 10 degree colder OEM one from a G37 should work fine. The Mishimoto one isn't a good idea, both because 160 is too cold and Mishimoto products are cheap Chinese garbage.

[critical]

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Any particular reason why? A 10 degree colder OEM one from a G37 should work fine. The Mishimoto one isn't a good idea, both because 160 is too cold and Mishimoto products are cheap Chinese garbage.

Cause Chinese parts.

But for the g37 one I don't really see the point of opening 10 degrees earlier if your engine coolant is going to be running higher than both actuation points.

[Chuck33079]

Originally Posted by critical

Cause Chinese parts.

I'm with you on that part. I'm shocked they're allowed to be a vendor here, considering how often their junk fails.

[critical]

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

I'm with you on that part. I'm shocked they're allowed to be a vendor here, considering how often their junk fails.

They make great videos though!

[Jordo!]

Oil cooler while its there? Nothing crazy if you aren't tracking it, but while its out, why not?

Trans fluid cooler is probably not a bad idea (isn't there a stock one?) but again if not tracking it or boosting it, no need to over cool.

[Chuck33079]

Originally Posted by critical

They make great videos though!

Oh, their whole marketing dept is impressive. Unfortunately their parts are made out of used Chinese beer cans by drunken toddlers. I could hold a welder in my *** and lay down a better bead than they did on the radiator I bought from them years back. Enough jacking Andrew's thread, though. Back on topic.
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Mishimoto sucks balls.