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Help with next upgrade for horsepower

Hey all, I'm hoping for some good advice on this. I have a 2010 7AT with 50K miles; the current upgrades are a full Stillen G3 intake / exhaust system

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Old 12-08-2017, 08:40 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Help with next upgrade for horsepower

Hey all,

I'm hoping for some good advice on this. I have a 2010 7AT with 50K miles; the current upgrades are a full Stillen G3 intake / exhaust system including long tube intake, HFC and full exhaust. I'm not interested in installing a supercharger, turbo or NOS. I will never track the car but do enjoy occasional spirited driving. I am interested in installing headers plus I found a 2014 post from Z1 Motorsports for a mail in Uprev flash, that sounded good as well. Thoughts and suggestions? Thanks in advance for the input.
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Old 12-08-2017, 08:43 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Tune and gears will be the best bang for your buck. Use Ecutek instead of Uprev.
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Old 12-08-2017, 12:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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IMO,headers are a waste of time&$$.

With the money you will save from the headers,head on down to
Z1 that is near Atlanta. Get a full tune on their dyno.
They do a great job.
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Old 12-08-2017, 12:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Long tube headers are absolutely not a waste of time, as shown by many dyno charts in this forum. They're just not a great bang for the buck item when you figure in the high labor cost.

You're absolutely correct on shorty headers, though.
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Old 12-09-2017, 05:03 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I'd disagree on the shorty header comment, unless you're referring to Stillen headers. The Z1/Momentum headers have been shown (again, through dynos) to be quite effective.
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Z1 headers and a tune...BOOM!
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Old 12-11-2017, 09:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Headers are a waste of $$ IMO. The cost does not justify the performance gain. The stock headers really aren't that bad. Also the stock intake is pretty good too and will filter better than the aftermarket ones.

Cat back, test pipes, tune, diff regearing are your best bet.
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Old 12-11-2017, 11:08 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Headers are a waste of $$ IMO. The cost does not justify the performance gain. The stock headers really aren't that bad. Also the stock intake is pretty good too and will filter better than the aftermarket ones.

Cat back, test pipes, tune, diff regearing are your best bet.
Outside of forced induction, the cost of 99% of performance parts for our cars don't justify the gains. $500+ intakes, $1200+ exhausts, etc. Lets not kid ourselves
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Old 12-11-2017, 11:20 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Outside of forced induction, the cost of 99% of performance parts for our cars don't justify the gains. $500+ intakes, $1200+ exhausts, etc. Lets not kid ourselves
Some of them cat back systems are beautiful though
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Old 12-12-2017, 03:14 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Sounds to me like I'm at the end of it all unless I want to go forced induction and for me the $$$ don't justify the HP gained. Oh well, it was worth the look. It's a shame there's not more HP there out of such a large engine but I also know there is the balance of reliability vs performance. I get it. I've been playing this game a long time. Thanks to everyone for the input.
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Old 12-12-2017, 03:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erob View Post
Sounds to me like I'm at the end of it all unless I want to go forced induction and for me the $$$ don't justify the HP gained. Oh well, it was worth the look. It's a shame there's not more HP there out of such a large engine but I also know there is the balance of reliability vs performance. I get it. I've been playing this game a long time. Thanks to everyone for the input.
You should upgrade the handling performance. Unless you live in the Midwest where it doesn't make sense to.

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Old 12-12-2017, 04:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The absolute cheapest and most felt and observable difference you can make at one time is swapping out the 7AT pumpkin for a 6MT pumpkin for the gearing. Nothing else you do NA will have such an immediate effect that you can feel as soon as you drive away. If you want to get pretty with it then get 3.91 gears or 4.08 installed on your own pumpkin. When I had my G coupe I paid 300.00 for a used 6MT VSLD and slapped it in. My car was tuned with FI RHFC's, Motordyne resonated Y, Motordyne M370 Manifold, Ark Intakes , Y back exhaust and a PST Carbon Fiber driveshaft with aluminum yokes. The only thing I needed for full bolt was headers. Of all those mods the gearing was the one I would do if I could only have one.
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Old 12-12-2017, 04:20 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by solidus View Post
The absolute cheapest and most felt and observable difference you can make at one time is swapping out the 7AT pumpkin for a 6MT pumpkin for the gearing. Nothing else you do NA will have such an immediate effect that you can feel as soon as you drive away. If you want to get pretty with it then get 3.91 gears or 4.08 installed on your own pumpkin. When I had my G coupe I paid 300.00 for a used 6MT VSLD and slapped it in. My car was tuned with FI RHFC's, Motordyne resonated Y, Motordyne M370 Manifold, Ark Intakes , Y back exhaust and a PST Carbon Fiber driveshaft with aluminum yokes. The only thing I needed for full bolt was headers. Of all those mods the gearing was the one I would do if I could only have one.
I never thought of simply swapping out the diffs. How does switching from the 7AT diff to 6MT change highway driving?
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Old 12-12-2017, 05:21 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I never thought of simply swapping out the diffs. How does switching from the 7AT diff to 6MT change highway driving?
Acceleration is greatly improved at the cost of top end. I top speed was limited to 150. Other than that I lost cruise control which I never used.

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Old 12-12-2017, 09:42 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solidus View Post
Acceleration is greatly improved at the cost of top end. I top speed was limited to 150. Other than that I lost cruise control which I never used.

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What RPMs are you at doing 80mph on the highway? Is your speedometer still accurate?
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