What did you do with your Z today V (ON TOPIC DISCUSSION ONLY)

Kzonts

That sucks. It looks like it presses in. See the link below for the part

https://www.z1motorsports.com/trans-...be-p-7597.html

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2019 Magnetic Black Roadster
FI Exhaust | EVO-R Rear Diffuser | Artwork Bodyshop Front Splitter | Tuned By Specialty Z

filip00

Thanks for the link. Ok, pressing it in can probably be achieved by using a pipe cut in length, and gently hammering it in. But.. How do i take the old one out? Just grip it and unscrew it?

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Kzonts

Honestly, I don’t know. Never did it.

Maybe someone else will chime in…

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2019 Magnetic Black Roadster
FI Exhaust | EVO-R Rear Diffuser | Artwork Bodyshop Front Splitter | Tuned By Specialty Z

filip00

In the meantime, I gave it some thought and maybe if I just bend the tube back (provided that it's not pinched) - I could just use some JB weld around it and it should be OK, right?

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Kzonts

Just make sure it doesn’t seep into your diff. I’ve never used JB weld. :-)

Are you going to order a new breather tube?

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2019 Magnetic Black Roadster
FI Exhaust | EVO-R Rear Diffuser | Artwork Bodyshop Front Splitter | Tuned By Specialty Z

Rusty

That piece is pressed in. You can braze the crack closed. Or you can drill and tap threads. Install a fitting then.

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filip00

Thanks for the advice guys.

JB Weld is very thick, it can't seep in, no worries about that. I'm also thinking, since it's just a breather tube, the pressure flowing isn't too crazy, and if the tube isn't pinched, just JB Weld should be ok....right? Or am I forgetting anything?

I contacted the guys who fixed my diff to see if they'd send me a new breather tube or not, so I'll see what's the easiest option. I really wanna make sure it works well (either reinstall or fixing) because I really don't want to be dropping my diff YET AGAIN.....

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Inflaymes

They also make JB Weld PUTTY. Works awesome!

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Spooler

Just buy a new rear cover, you will get that piece.

filip00

I mean, I could, but is it really worth it? If it's just a breather tube with no crazy pressures and if metal putty will work, then I think a new cover is an overkill. I still gotta try fixing it first, I didn't have time yet to get around to it. I'll post updates in a few weeks when I can.

In the meantime - the new tyres arrived for the Z. I bought Goodyear Eagle F1 Assymetric 6. https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre/Goo...ymmetric-6.htm They should be pretty good. I bought the stock dimension (245, 275)

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Averying

Agreed. If it bends back, seal it with JB weld and call it a day. If it snaps, drill/tap it for a fitting.

Or use this as an opportunity to go with a high capacity finned diff cover.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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markesc

After ten LONG years of looking at these hideous silver refrigerator door handles, I reached my breaking point!!

Status: Drying...

Process:

Easy to remove - I was able to unscrew 1/2 screws on each side for the door lock button... the other one - as others have posted - was rusted, but I think I can press it back into it's old spot as the screw goes into a washer that's seated into the door housing - basically they pressfit the nut that it goes into... I did not want to deal with getting in there to remove those blue clips!!

Note: The "torq" bolt - don't bother ordering a special set of them - mine was not even hand tight...but now I have a whole set for future use... if you're just doing the handles only - you can get away with a flathead (there's only that one on the drivers side).

Spent a solid 30 minutes per handle sanding with 600...then paper towel wipe, then alcohol swab wipe...

Then:

1) 4 Coats of aluminum primer - it sprays white...

2) 5 Coats of black primer - This is what you want for dark blue base coat apparently... other colors you want either a white primer - or grey primer...please do research as it - somehow - makes a difference in terms of how your paint will behave in different lighting...Paint experts can chime in on that topic

3) 5 Coats of base coat - I used a company called touchupzone.com - $34 for a single can - used prettymuch all of it

4) Era Paints 2K clear - this stuff is pure evil - Buy the 3m respirator and appropriate filters - this is easily the strongest stuff I have ever sprayed myself...I ended up doing around 5 coats... It was orange peel like on coats 1-3... so keep spraying and it levels out nicely!

Currently drying - Will wait 2 days til I attempt to put them back on car:



Oh and: the windows went down like they were possessed - so - that will be "fun" doing the whole reset thing... for now they went back up if I put turned car on like usual... Somehow Nissan knows when you're removing the drivers side handle...

Attached Images

Door Handle Painted.jpg (142.9 KB, 58 views)

cv129

Man you are on fire lately!

I settled for the later model year dark chrome ones on the wife’s car. Not nearly as good as having them painted but a little better than the eye sore bright silver…

Jealous again

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Inflaymes

There's no attachment point on those handles you have to drill out?? I remember reading some had a part you had to drill out then use a screw when installing?

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redondoaveb

If you want to completely disassemble them for painting then there are 2 pieces that need to be drilled out and tapped for screws. That's how I did mine. It's not necessary but assures that you get complete coverage underneath the handle itself.

Attached Images

Screenshot_20240215_083046_Chrome.jpg (587.1 KB, 11 views)

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