Yeah it's not difficult - just do them over three days - one day to remove/paint, then a solid day to dry, then another day to put back on car.

I ended up using a small rock to pop them open slightly - then using the velocity of the paint - to prime them. After the primer stage - I closed them as I want complete coverage when they're closed. You are able to get close as you paint to get the paint in there... kind of an art - I figure that's the compromise vs. taking the time to drill them apart...

Will get photos up tomorrow after installing back on car!

I Like them but my car is silver like the one in the forum page header, one of the few colors they don't seem out of place on. :tup:

Installed VR30 7AT w/new internal filter, added auxiliary external filter, and aluminum driveshaft.

Nissan is WAY overkill with brackets on the trans.!! The one employed for the trans. breather on the bellhousing bolt at 12 o'clock is ridiculous, simply zip tied it to coolant cross-over pipe on the drivers side in damn near the same position as the bracket. I deleted 3 brackets in all not including the two that bolt to the bellhousing bottom which can't be retained due to the VR30 bellhousing missing their bolt bosses.

In the process I learned a easy way DIY transmission flush that can be employed on most vehicles. Simply remove the rubber return trans. cooler line from the hard line leading to the engine and let it drain into a container until it looks new while (caveat) pouring fluid into the dipstick tube.

I used to like it too. Then slowly getting converted to the other side lol.

I have a white V1, so the door handles aren’t as huge of a contrast than the darker color cars, and i make the weak argument of silver headlights, silver rims, silver door handles, the bezel on the side marker, sorta just go together…just to keep my peace

But after I installed the CF brake ducts and intake ducts,
the silver is a thorn again. Sigh

Nice!! played with the idea of a tranny swap on the wife’s car for a few sec. Why not the new 9AT? Either way, I heard the VR30 7at has better shifts and logics. Congrats

Okay, so i got around to testing this damage. I just bent the tube back and it's still pinched. However, i tested pushing a plastic zip tie thru it and it goes, meaning that the tube still functions, and it's not *that* heavily pinched. So I'm definitely going to jb weld around it to seal or and that's that. I have another question though: i noticed that the base of the breather tube rotates. Is this normal, or is it broken? It doesn't rotate freely, but i can rotate it if i try.
Thanks!

I haven't seen any info. on 9AT fitment yet and figured it would be very expensive considering they're mostly brand new if they do fit. I'm thinking being the Z needs to retain its TCM marriage with the Z ECU (have to swap the Z TCM into the VR30), I doubt the 7AT TCM will control a 9AT.

My '10 101k 7AT was having issues with flair-ups when shifting in both manual and auto mode. When downshifting in manual mode there was a "double bump" upon catching the lower gear; almost like a blown mount slop feeling but the mounts are fine, so it seems the slop was within the Z trans. Also, when downshifting in manual mode, instead of holding the gear down to 1,500 rpm then freewheeling (normal Z trans. operation), the Z trans. revs would frequently fall from as high as 2,700 rpm causing freewheeling instead of holding the gear like a manual.

The 2018 VR30 trans with 60k I sourced remedied all of the above, rev matching is much faster :tup: and the VR30 was $375 with the torque converter included! FYI, you DO NOT need a Red Sport model trans. as the only difference between it and the other VR30 trans.' is the RS TCM has the same rev match downshift feature as the Z TCM you're swapping in anyway. Otherwise, all the other hardware within both trans.' are the same per Godzilla Racing.

The only quirk I'm left with is the harsh 3-4th gear shift for which I've already done the TCM update which fixed the issue for a few months then resurfaced in the Z trans, unfortunately that carried over to the VR30. I work around it in both trans' by lightly lifting off the accelerator slightly to lessen torque demand thereby commanding a "lighter" shift which is smoother. I wish ECUtek had a TCM reset option like the ECU, being it doesn't my only chance at a TCM reset/relearn would be disconnecting the battery and then all systems start anew.

I had the ECUTek torque modulation for the Z trans. set at 130% of OE which is too harsh for the VR30 trans. as the shifts are so abrupt the car lurches forward lifting the front end (within the suspension travel) during high throttle position shifts. I know the VR30 vs. Z trans. OE For OE shift logic is more aggressive in the VR (most likely due to valve body design and different solenoids), so I'll be adjusting the torque modulation within the tune to suit my needs during future drives. I only got about 10 miles in after finishing this weekend before rain started for 2+ days but I'm VERY happy with the results thus far. :happydance:

Cheap thrills with some Morimoto LP lights...amazing how much dirt clogs up the inside of the rear bumper - So enjoy a mt of dirt falling when you replace yours:

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1708718158


BTW: Does anyone know of a clip unhooking tool specific for cars? Basically some a plyer set specific for unclipping electrical clips - kind of one of those "nice to have" tools... What do the stealerships use? While I don't "mind" using a flat head at times - some of them require brute force leading to broken clips/fingers... Luckily these lights were cooperative...

Door handles matched up quite well... photos as promised:

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1708718646

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1708718646

Now the car REALLY needs spacers and lowering... Just trying to avoid money pit status ("recovering" :rofl2: WRX owner so...sure you can understand...Z ownership has been financial "therapy" in comparison...)

The Z runs well. I've been using the bike more though.

I was a dip$hit and broke a rear SPL endlink, so i thought i'd give the Z1 adjustable endlinks a try. So far, they work fine.

I need new rear tires but the Michelin PS4S in 305s (and 285s) are now $420 a piece. I might as well just go with some 200 TW on the summer set for a little more so I might just get four AD09s at NISMO OEM sizes vs the upsized set. I didn't like how the michelins handled anyway. Steering input was very vague.

I'm currently waiting on my Craft Square mirrors. We're going into month 5 haha.

To follow up on this bent breather tube...today I went ahead and fixed this. At least, I think I fixed it.


https://i.imgur.com/4CTjo9xh.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/PpNVLnUh.jpeg


So what I did was, bent the broken tube back into place. Then I tested it for pinching - I inserted a plastic zip tie into it, just to see if it goes through. It does, but it jams in the pinch unless I twist it. That was expected, as the pinch is just perpendicular to the angle the zip ties goes in.
Anyway, I used JB Weld which I put around the whole tube, as the lower part of the breather tube wasn't completely stuck in the diff cover, but it was possible to rotate the tube if tried.

I know there was an option of changing the differential cover altogether, but this wouldn't work for me, as the high capacity covers interfere with the additional diff brace that I've got installed.

I don't doubt that this fix will hold, I'm just wondering whether it will seal it well, or am I looking at the oily diff cover every few weeks....

You can remove the cover. Drill and tap threads in the hole. And install a barbed fitting. That's what I would do. Since the diff isn't installed yet.

This would probably be the best option, but I don't have any thread tapping tools right now...and I'm a bit on the fence if this is a "good enough" fix for this or not - as what you suggested is definitely best, but requires additional work and some tools I don't have...

I finally bought a small pressure washer (mainly to clean my small patio), but it came with a foam cannon. I learned it goes through soap QUICKLY.

I gave the car a wash, trying out some GTechniq products and it looks pretty good. I have the summer wheels/tires on right now but they ride super wonky compared to the new all seasons I have. At a minimum i need two new rear tires and those Michelins are eye watering now.

The old stillen bumper is on because i plan on painting my dive planes and re-clearing my Top Secret Lip for the OEM style bumper while I'm off next week. I might also do a gear oil change while I have the the time off. I still have the parts needed for the front motor maintenance, but I have no cooling issues and the Oil pressure is comfortably at 1.7bar (25ish PSI) at warm idle which is well within spec. I kinda don't want to mess with it if it's fine haha. 152.5K miles!

https://i.imgur.com/8JsQJOCh.jpg

Look for “electrical disconnect plyer”. I recently was on a mission looking for one, finallly got to the keywords that yield decent results.