Agree. Get the vehicle that fits your needs--whatever they might be now or in the foreseeable future.

Things will change in the future, so maybe you'll decide to come back. Or not. Just do whatever works for you at the time. I went 20 years between Zs.

Bit of taboo to say in the interest of building/keeping up the community here — I'm just going to say don't buy a Z if you simply don't feel comfortable with the idea. I mean a bunch of anecdotes and input will tell you how reliable the Z should be, and that you got a lemon (and I personally agree); but I get it if you fear of getting the same luck on the next one and therefore feeling like you just made the same mistake twice.

It's like getting a cone of ice cream, having the ice cream fall off for no good reason, getting another, and seeing that happen again — even if like 90% of ice cream cone eaters shouldn't experience that.

Also, if you didn't totally love the drive of the Z outside of your issues, there's not much real incentive to get another. A number of users here came back or re-upped their ownership of a 370Z, and if you don't see that for yourself, no harm.

I would have to beat the lemon drum at the dealership. They will give you a hard time...but then you should call the corporate office. Once that doesn't work get a lawyer to call. Good luck

I do not believe that the OP's Z would qualify under the "Lemmon Law". As far as I know, it has to be on one or a number of issues that have come up on multiple occasions.

Yay... "service engine soon" light is now on. Basically the check engine light right?

The dealer said my throttle bodies were probably sticking and that's why it wasn't turning on. Figured I'd do it my self since a 10$ throttle body cleaner will probably cost me something like $300 at a dealership. Anyhow I took it home yesterday and drove it around most of the day to run some errands. Turned it on this morning to the service engine light on. Hopefully the engine blows up, catches on fire, rolls down a cliff and into a river where it can extinguish the fire, be hit by rocks and die a slow-painful-brutal death.

I wonder if it's just my POS car or the dealership ****** it up. Either way I'd love to use my car as a target in a shooting range. It'd be euphoric.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just noticed it's idling slightly higher than usual... it's idling at exactly 1k rpm... I know it's higher because I can hear my exhaust at idle which wasn't the case before. Agh.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

re: To Z or not to Z .....
 

I'm right with you, actually!
I love my '16 Nismo I just bought, but it's not my only car or daily driver.
I have a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon for things like snow and ice, taking the dog and/or family around, or hauling things.

The Z is a pretty bad "primary car", if you ask me? Not enough room for much of anything in it, and uncomfortable to get in and out of it (although I like the Recaro seats once I'm sitting in one and have it adjusted). It's going to use up expensive tires and a lot of premium unleaded gas too, when you're spending the bulk of that in traffic - where all the performance capabilities are just wasted.

When I was a lot younger and there was no way I even had the money to imagine owning more than one vehicle at a time? Yeah, I owned a sports car. I was more worried about the "image" and driving something "fun" than anything practical. And hey - I didn't have anyone to take around except me and perhaps a girlfriend.

But these days -- I would never put up with all the trade-offs a 370Z makes you put up with, as my ONLY ride. It's great as a car to pull out on weekends or that random nice day when you feel like driving it to work though.

So you cleaned the throttle bodies? Did you follow all the instructions? Because allot of people get a higher RPM because they did not research it completely...

Here is some information that I researched and put together when I had a G37, never had the higher RPM and recently did my 370z also with no problems...

In studying the service manual very closely I discovered some things that are not mentioned that may or may not make a difference in the cleaning of the throttle body and then the associated problems with idle etc. Note: Normal Idle is 650+-50 so approximately 600 to 700 RPM.
1. Do not disconnect the battery. It does not state to disconnect the battery in the Service Tech Manual. Why I dont know. I speculate that although the power is off the the "electric" throttle control acutuator may still be monitoring/recording the position of the butterfly valves. If it is disconnected it will not monitor it and when you start the car the ECU will not like what it sees. Again this is speculation but the manual does not say to disconnect the battery.
2. When removing the Electric Throttle Control Actuator, DO NOT REMOVE anything connected to it. This includes the two water hoses and the harness connector.
3. There is a specific order to loosen mounting bolts.
Per manual loosen bolts in reverse order as shown in the figure:
4321 and then tightening it back up 1234.
4. Torque of these bolts is 8.43 FT-LB if you overtighten or undertighten could cause an air leak and ECU again will not like what it sees. (make sure your throttle body and rubber O ring is seated properly you know why....)
5. Do yourself a favor and buy a torque wrench and a Hex Bit Socket Set. Or the socket Hex bit metric 5 if you can buy independent. The whole set only costs around 15 bucks and believe me you will use it again.
6. Service manual states you MUST do the following after you clean the electric throttle control actuator inside.
THROTTLE VALVE CLOSED POSITION LEARNING : Description INFOID:0000000008161734
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning is a function of ECM to learn the fully closed position of the throttle
valve by monitoring the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of electric throttle control actuator or ECM is disconnected or electric throttle control actuator inside is cleaned.

THROTTLE VALVE CLOSED POSITION LEARNING : Special Repair Requirement
INFOID:0000000008161735

WITHOUT CONSULT
1. Start the engine.
NOTE:
Engine coolant temperature is 25°C (77°F) or less before engine starts.
2. Warm up the engine.
NOTE:
Raise engine coolant temperature until it reaches 65°C (149°F) or more.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
Check that throttle valve moves during the above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
>> END

I actually never touched them. I think the dealership may have removed them, realized they were dirty and told me based on that. I was planning on cleaning them today until I saw the service engine light on.

So I'm wondering if I should just take matters into my own hands and remove/clean them my self. OR, take it to the dealership.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Has all this been at the same dealership?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I already asked that. I would hope OP would have tried at least one other dealer with all the issues he's been having.

That's California.... bend you over for every little thing, then rape you every 2 years for a smog check..... :icon14:

Guilty. I know, I know. I live 10 min away from that dealership so it makes it convenient but lesson learned.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wait, you've just been going to the same place over and over, with them unable to handle fixing the car, and you jump straight to "this car is a POS and I'm selling it" without even trying another dealer to figure out if the car is the problem or the dealer breaks two things for every one they fix? Call Nissan corporate and go to another dealer before you sell the car.

Thing is, I always assumed it broke down to reasons unrelated to the dealerships work. Like the steering lock failure for example. The CSC died twice but always assumed it was a bad Nissan part naturally prone to failure. Until now where they returned it worse than it was.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk