Dealer Info on TSB for CSC Issue

[Dwight Frye]

I was in my local dealership today making an appointment to have some 65K service items done that are beyond my ability. One of the services will be to flush the clutch and brake fluids and replace them. I asked the service writer about the CSC failure issue and he mentioned that a TSB had been issued to use GTR clutch fluid instead of the standard for better performance. I also asked that the clutch pedal play be adjusted as not only does the pedal seem "soft" but there is quite a bit of free travel at the top of the stroke, a reasonable amount of travel coming up off fully depressed before the clutch starts to engage, and not a lot of travel when the clutch is engaging before the pedal is fully let out.
The service writer said there was no adjustment in the pedal, replacing the fluid would make the pedal feel firmer and make up for the free travel. I smell B.S.

1. Has anyone heard of a TSB to use Nissan GTR clutch fluid ?
2. I am looking at the factory service manual for the clutch, section CL-5, On Vehicle Maintenance, Clutch Pedal Adjustment, Inspection and Adjustment. It seems to indicate that the "adjustment" is just for the clutch interlock switch proper operation. Is this correct ?

My service is scheduled for day after tomorrow, comments and advice are appreciated.

[shirokenkami]

Do you STILL have the OEM CSC???

[Spooler]

Yes, it is an old fix to replace with Dot 4 (GTR fluid). It will firm up the pedal. No, you do not have much of an adjustment with the stock pedal. You can shorten or lengthen the CMC rod length but if all parts are stock you will most likely get it out of adjustment. The only time you really need to adjust the length is when installing a new CMC. You should have about 1/8 to 1/4 in. of freeplay at the top.

[Dwight Frye]

It is the original CMC, I am the original owner of the car. The brake & clutch fluid were "refreshed" at about 30K miles by sucking the old fluid out, filling the reservoirs up with new fluid, driving for a couple of days and then repeating again after which the fluid looked fairly clear.
I will make sure that they use DOT4 fluid in the CMC.

[shirokenkami]

Originally Posted by Dwight Frye

It is the original CMC, I am the original owner of the car. The brake & clutch fluid were "refreshed" at about 30K miles by sucking the old fluid out, filling the reservoirs up with new fluid, driving for a couple of days and then repeating again after which the fluid looked fairly clear.
I will make sure that they use DOT4 fluid in the CMC.

I would highly advocate you swap for one of the aftermarket options available from ZSpeed or Z1.

[TreeSemdyZee]

About the only way that you're going to get the clutch feel and travel that you're looking for is to get one of these:

RJM Clutch Pedal System for 370Z - Fully Customizable Clutch Feel & Stroke

Homepage: http://www.rjmperformance.com/index.html

Pretty much rave reviews from most if not all involved.

[onzedge]

Originally Posted by TreeSemdyZee

About the only way that you're going to get the clutch feel and travel that you're looking for is to get one of these:

RJM Clutch Pedal System for 370Z - Fully Customizable Clutch Feel & Stroke

Homepage: *RJM Performance.com - Home

Pretty much rave reviews from most if not all involved.

[JARblue]

GT-R fluid is just a way for them to upcharge you. It's nothing other than a better fluid - it does not help the CMC or CSC issues other than helping to prevent the fluid from boiling. If you're upgrading, I would recommend Motul RBF600 - it's better fluid and not more expensive (locally, I find RBF600 cheaper than GT-R fluid).

The OEM pedal does allow for some adjustment. But it doesn't really do anything other than change the pedal travel length. The engagement doesn't change, and that stupid double-hinge spring action is exactly the same. There are two clutch switches - upper and lower. You can screw in or unscrew either or both switches to shorten or lengthen the pedal travel, respectively, but it doesn't do much. If you adjust the lower switch too far, the car may not start or it could possibly prevent the CMC from actuating fully. The upper switch is a cruise control switch that might prevent it from working if not properly adjusted.

I recommend one of the ZSpeed options when your CSC goes. And the RJM clutch pedal allows for a lot more adjustment and has a linear pedal. The entire stock clutch hydraulic system on the Z is $hitty and ideally should be replaced asap

[BBQdDude]

Originally Posted by JARblue

GT-R fluid is just a way for them to upcharge you. It's nothing other than a better fluid

Isn't stock DOT3. GTR is DOT4. This would give better lubrication under high temperature situations? Not that it will "fix" the issue but it is good to use DOT4 for the above reason.

[JARblue]

Originally Posted by BBQdDude

Isn't stock DOT3. GTR is DOT4. This would give better lubrication under high temperature situations? Not that it will "fix" the issue but it is good to use DOT4 for the above reason.

Originally Posted by JARblue

GT-R fluid is just a way for them to upcharge you. It's nothing other than a better fluid - it does not help the CMC or CSC issues other than helping to prevent the fluid from boiling. If you're upgrading, I would recommend Motul RBF600 - it's better fluid and not more expensive (locally, I find RBF600 cheaper than GT-R fluid).

It doesn't appear that you read the bold part of my post Yes. The GT-R fluid has a higher boiling point than the stock Z fluid. I just wanted to point out Motul RBF600 has an even higher boiling point and costs less.

If you're boiling the clutch fluid, you're obviously driving it hard enough that you should be taking into account certain OEM components that may not hold up under the aggressive conditions. So you should be considering higher temp fluid BEFORE any of the clutch hydraulics start failing. Brake fluid is another example - Car & Driver gave the Z terrible ratings because they took a stock Z and drove it hard on the track with stock fluids and the brake fluid boiled and they crashed ... idiots.

The TSB is bull$hit; fluid is not causing CMC or CSC issues. If fluid were the cause, all failures would be under hard driving or at least hot temp driving. But a CSC on a Z with less than 1000 miles failing in the dealer parking lot is due to shitty parts, not the fluid.

[onzedge]

Originally Posted by JARblue

It doesn't appear that you read the bold part of my post Yes. The GT-R fluid has a higher boiling point than the stock Z fluid. I just wanted to point out Motul RBF600 has an even higher boiling point and costs less.

If you're boiling the clutch fluid, you're obviously driving it hard enough that you should be taking into account certain OEM components that may not hold up under the aggressive conditions. So you should be considering higher temp fluid BEFORE any of the clutch hydraulics start failing. Brake fluid is another example - Car & Driver gave the Z terrible ratings because they took a stock Z and drove it hard on the track with stock fluids and the brake fluid boiled and they crashed ... idiots.

The TSB is bull$hit; fluid is not causing CMC or CSC issues. If fluid were the cause, all failures would be under hard driving or at least hot temp driving. But a CSC on a Z with less than 1000 miles failing in the dealer parking lot is due to shitty parts, not the fluid.

[mishuko]

Here's what you do. I did it this year.

Aftermarket csc
Master swap (because no one will honor warranty unless it's done plus might aswell since they got a life too)
Rbf 600 equivalent or better
RJM pedal

I did the fluid swap last year then again this year when I did the csc and master. Summer did my clutch pedal. Running crap dot4 fluid right now since I had issues with my bleeder during install. Will be going back to Rbf 600 in spring maintenence.

[mishuko]

I summed it up for tldr

And the message is, listen to us all as we have had the problem. Follow our guidance to prevent further heartache failure to do so will result in us laughing at you and end up stranded.

[BBQdDude]

Originally Posted by JARblue

It doesn't appear that you read the bold part of my post

My bad, you are right I missed that

[Z_ealot]

I would add that if you are going to switch out the master you might as well opt for an insulated clutch line as well as that will also help in preventing the clutch fluid from receiving heat from the engine on its way down to the transmission bell housing.