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Reliability is generally good on these cars given you maintain them. I drive mine HARD on the weekends and it's still going strong. I'm also meticulous about maintenance. As mentioned,
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#1 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Reliability is generally good on these cars given you maintain them. I drive mine HARD on the weekends and it's still going strong. I'm also meticulous about maintenance.
As mentioned, if you go 6MT, the CSC is the weak point on these trans, but there are solid aftermarket solutions to rectify the issue. Good luck with your decision! BTW, any pics of the E46? That's my favorite M3. My brother in law just picked up an '05 last night, ironically enough. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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The Japanese is very good at making existing technology reliable and pushing its performance to the limit. Years ago I read a small SUV comparison by C&D, the previous generation Toyota Rav4 with the 2.5L port-injected NA with the 4-speed auto outperformed the Ford Escape with the then new of 1.6L EcoBoost with a 6-speed auto in both acceleration and real world fuel economy by a slim margin.
2013 Ford Escape vs., 2012 Honda CR-V, 2012 Hyundai Tucson, 2012 Kia Sportage, 2013 Mazda CX-5, 2012 Toyota RAV4 - Comparison Test - Car and Driver For the Zs, Nissan not offering DI, Turbo or DCT sure turns off some buyers, but that definitely makes the Z relatively reliable and cheap to maintain. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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#6 (permalink) |
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I'm pretty sure that even newborn babies out of the womb know Japanese cars are reliable.
It's still interesting to hear all the stories from you techs. Thanks for making us all feel good about our purchases. ![]() |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Building off of what has already been previously mentioned. The only real expense that you will encounter with your Z should be tires! Be prepared to shell out $1200 if you want the best performing tires but then again my Z has all bolt ons and a tune and has been nothing but reliable. No issues yet, whether or not you use the more expensive Nissan Ester oil or not is up to you. Many forum members swear by redline. I will say best advise I can give you is to flush the trans and diff fluid within the first 3k miles and replace with High Performance fluid such as Motul. Will ensure your parts last far longer, especially if you have a lead foot like me. Best of luck and welcome to the Z club.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Here's my testament to Nissan/Infiniti reliability -they've been the only cars I've owned for the last 22 years and here's their history:
1994 Nissan Altima (bought new, kept for 12 years- handed down to wife in 2000) 2000 Nissan Maxima (bought new, drove for 7 years until it got hit by someone at a light and totaled) 2004 Infiniti G35S (bought used in 2007 after Maxima totaled) 2008 Infiniti G37S (bought used in 2010 as an upgrade to G35S) 2013 Nissan 370Z touring with sports pkg and all options (bought new in 2013, still own it) I've never had any issues with any of those cars. I've simply changed the oil filters and consumables like belts, batteries, brake pads. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Here's the list of things i've had to replace on my m3 since i've gotten it 3 years ago.
-Alternator -Starter -Fuel Pump -Various electrical sensors -Vanos camshaft bolts broke and bent all my valves. Cost $4000 to rebuild vanos and head. -Replaced old suspension with coilvers -New brakes/rotors/bushings -Radiator/water pump/coolant hoses Guess you can't blame me for wanting to get into Japanese sports cars right? Brutal on the wallet lol |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Couple photos of it for the guy who asked, Laguna Seca Blue on dove grey interior, 6 speed manual
![]() ![]() Also have a hardtop on it for the winter ![]() |
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#12 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Nice car Bimmers, but some nice bills too
![]() 4 years on my 13 Sport Z 6mt and I did have my front rotors resurfaced a few months back. Steering wheel was shaking just a little during high speed braking. Other then that just fluid changes. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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da only maintenance ive done is routine stuff. oil changes, air filter changes, cabin filter changes, blinker fluid changes, brake fluid changes, coolant changes, tire changes, exhaust changes, mines rear spoiler changes, ings+ front lip changes, cs mirror changes, so on and so forth. just routine stuff
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#14 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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I've owned two E34s (530, 535) and currently drive an E39 (540) so I'm very familiar with a BMW's true cost to own. They're amazing cars but over-priced. Replacement parts are even more ridiculously priced. I replaced the key and HVAC buttons for the 540 a few months ago and I spent almost 400 Euros. I would never, ever, keep a BMW past the warranty period unless it's an M car I intend on keeping forever. We recently picked up an F30 (320), and though it serves its purpose very well, it'll get traded in before the warranty goes out.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Drives: 2010 370z 6MT
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Things to watch out for:
Leaking Differential Bushings, replace with aftermarket as Nissan ones are junk and will leak again. Steering Lock Failure, was supposed to be fixed via recall but beware late 2010's like mine that aren't covered under recall but still failed. :/ Clutch Slave Cylinder failing and not being covered under the POWERTRAIN warranty (I mean come on, I was stranded 4 hours from home and you tell me its not powertrain) But to be honest, I have a friend who drive a 5 series and the maintanence cost is much much higher for him than me. Plus I have done all of these repairs (minus the Slave cylinder) myself in my driveway with my father as projects so Yes you can do the wrenching yourself if you have the time and the drive. Overall, with all the issues I've had, I don't ever plan on selling this car, it's just like my motorcycle, it might break in weird ways sometimes but the unique special feeling I get from driving it is worth it.
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2010 Black Cherry 370Z Admin 3" intakes, Motordyne LTH, ART Pipes, AAM Catback, Z1 Anti Starve Kit, and some other stuff too |
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