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OEM Clutch vs Aftermarket

So my clutch in my 370Z is going out. I have roughly 80K miles on it and I bought it new. I hadn't driven a stick car in years before

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Old 07-19-2016, 03:02 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default OEM Clutch vs Aftermarket

So my clutch in my 370Z is going out. I have roughly 80K miles on it and I bought it new. I hadn't driven a stick car in years before buying it (I'm used to sportbikes) so I probably beat up the clutch some.

I've been looking through the forums for any info on how much it'd cost to replace the clutch and if it'd be worth it to get an aftermarket clutch. So far I know it'll cost somewhere between $1500 - $2000 to replace the clutch with an OEM clutch. And I've read a few posts saying how some have replaced their clutch with an aftermarket one and ended up having issues with the aftermarket one.

I've also found South Bend, Stillen, JWT and ACT clutches. So my question is this, first does anyone how exactly how much the OEM clutch would be to replace as well as each aftermarket brand (installed). Would it actually be beneficial to go aftermarket since I'll be replacing it anyway? What are the differences between each brand vs OEM. And what all parts need to be replaced when you replace a clutch or do they sell actual kits that includes everything that would need to be replaced?
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Old 07-19-2016, 06:05 AM   #2 (permalink)
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What I did was OEM clutch and a lightened flywheel. The OEM clutch works great unless you go FI. But a lighter flywheel helps free up some revs.

And it's cheaper if you do it yourself. If you don't have the tools or facility, I think it's 8-11 hours shop time.
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:11 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirk McGurck View Post
What I did was OEM clutch and a lightened flywheel. The OEM clutch works great unless you go FI. But a lighter flywheel helps free up some revs.

And it's cheaper if you do it yourself. If you don't have the tools or facility, I think it's 8-11 hours shop time.
did the lightened flywheel make your idle go up some rpm's?
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:34 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Not that I've noticed.
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:59 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Not that I've noticed.
cool thankx
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Old 07-20-2016, 06:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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It really depends on the type of driving you plan on doing as well.. An OEM replacement won't be the best if you plan on visiting the track a few times a year or if you do some "happy" driving.

As for installation, its not very difficult if you have the correct tools.

Either way, hit me up if you want special forum member pricing on clutches!
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Old 07-21-2016, 06:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gungrave View Post

I've also found South Bend, Stillen, JWT and ACT clutches. So my question is this, first does anyone how exactly how much the OEM clutch would be to replace as well as each aftermarket brand (installed). Would it actually be beneficial to go aftermarket since I'll be replacing it anyway? What are the differences between each brand vs OEM. And what all parts need to be replaced when you replace a clutch or do they sell actual kits that includes everything that would need to be replaced?

First Q- Installation difficulty depends on the brand of the clutch usually, but is not usually difficult. Installation is more time consuming. The only other physical difference you will literally see when you've installing the aftermarket one is that the stack height of the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel is bigger and there is less room to finagle things. I went with ACT which has the largest stack height of aftermarket clutches and the Z1 CSC Elim kit, Solid setup and love it. I have the RJM v3.1 clutch pedal and MSC ready to go in as well

Second Q- The benefits between Aftermarket and OEM are polar opposites.
Aftermarket clutches have stages of strength, pressure and resistance. The more those numbers go up, the stiffer the clutch. A low to moderate clutch feel/engagement is what you want to look for if you are a DD, street driver, or occasional track user. If you are going to track a lot and is a weekend car or are going Forced Induction go with a Moderate to Heavy Feel/engagement with a 6puck pressure plate. My first ACT clutch was the NZ2-XTSS and was a mistake with how stiff the moderate to heavy clutch engagement/feel is for a DD for me. I went with the HD pressure plate and lightweight flywheel.
With DD, going through canyons and having my spirited drives, it's lasted close to 7500 miles. The NZ2-XTSS is more of Forced Induction clutch. lol I went with the NZ2-HDSS and same pressure plate and flywheel from ACT for the next one and hoping to have it last closer to 15k-20k.
Aftermarket clutches give you the performance you want but not longevity. Definitely wont last 80k... lol

OEM benefits; doesn't void warrenty. Lasts long... like 80k miles long.. lol.. done


If you are going to re-do the whole clutch and make it feel as close to flawless as possible;
-Aftermarket clutch, pressure plate and lightweight flywheel
-Z1 CSC elim kit or HD CSC
-RJM v3.1 Clutch pedal assembly
-RJM MSC assembly
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Old 07-28-2016, 01:44 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birdman71 View Post
First Q- Installation difficulty depends on the brand of the clutch usually, but is not usually difficult. Installation is more time consuming. The only other physical difference you will literally see when you've installing the aftermarket one is that the stack height of the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel is bigger and there is less room to finagle things. I went with ACT which has the largest stack height of aftermarket clutches and the Z1 CSC Elim kit, Solid setup and love it. I have the RJM v3.1 clutch pedal and MSC ready to go in as well

Second Q- The benefits between Aftermarket and OEM are polar opposites.
Aftermarket clutches have stages of strength, pressure and resistance. The more those numbers go up, the stiffer the clutch. A low to moderate clutch feel/engagement is what you want to look for if you are a DD, street driver, or occasional track user. If you are going to track a lot and is a weekend car or are going Forced Induction go with a Moderate to Heavy Feel/engagement with a 6puck pressure plate. My first ACT clutch was the NZ2-XTSS and was a mistake with how stiff the moderate to heavy clutch engagement/feel is for a DD for me. I went with the HD pressure plate and lightweight flywheel.
With DD, going through canyons and having my spirited drives, it's lasted close to 7500 miles. The NZ2-XTSS is more of Forced Induction clutch. lol I went with the NZ2-HDSS and same pressure plate and flywheel from ACT for the next one and hoping to have it last closer to 15k-20k.
Aftermarket clutches give you the performance you want but not longevity. Definitely wont last 80k... lol

OEM benefits; doesn't void warrenty. Lasts long... like 80k miles long.. lol.. done


If you are going to re-do the whole clutch and make it feel as close to flawless as possible;
-Aftermarket clutch, pressure plate and lightweight flywheel
-Z1 CSC elim kit or HD CSC
-RJM v3.1 Clutch pedal assembly
-RJM MSC assembly
I don't have any issue with getting an OEM clutch and honestly I drive it like a grandma lol. Plus I rarely get to drive my own car anymore. But I'm looking more so at price vs quality.

I've looked around online and found all of the OEM parts since I plan on just replacing pretty much everything since I'll be there already. The cheapest I've found the OEM parts was $1600 total vs I found the Southbend Stage 2 kit with Zperformance for $1100. If the Southbend Stage 2 is better quality and give better performance as well and is cheaper than the OEM; I'd assume it's the better buy. Though if the Stage 2 kit will make the car essentially alot harder to drive then I'll just stick with OEM. Also if the Southbend one won't last another 80K or so miles then I'll probably go OEM.

But what are your thoughts of OEM vs the Southbend Stage 2 for more so a DD?
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Old 06-04-2018, 10:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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What are some websites to purchase the aftermarket clutch and flywheels?
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Old 06-04-2018, 10:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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