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Clutch sticking half way to floor

Mind sharing which dealer did your work? It's been recommended many times that one should also replace the master clyinder at the same time. If they didn't replace the mc,

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Old 05-26-2015, 11:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Mind sharing which dealer did your work?

It's been recommended many times that one should also replace the master clyinder at the same time. If they didn't replace the mc, you can pretty much count on it to happen again.
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Old 07-12-2015, 01:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Mind sharing which dealer did your work?

It's been recommended many times that one should also replace the master clyinder at the same time. If they didn't replace the mc, you can pretty much count on it to happen again.
I'm not sure I entirely agree with this. I don't see how the MC can influence SC failure.

The reason for replacing the MC is because of difficulty in bleeding the system when replacing the CSC. This becomes an issue on higher mileage cars, not brand new cars. For lack of a better term, an "aged" MC has more wear inside and may leak (to some extent) internally. As a result, it's difficult and/or impossible to get air out of the system.

On a car with 1900 miles (OP), this should not be an issue. After the car is aged - 50, 60, 70K miles, and clutch/csc replacement is necessary, then absolutely, replace the MC too.

My recommendation, change the fluid in the reservoir once a year. Use some kind of suction device to suck out most (not all) of the fluid from the reservoir. Replenish. Drive the car a few days then repeat. Do this 2 or 3 times to renew the fluid. Every 2 years do a thorough flush. Doing this removes contaminants from the clutch line and should prolong life of the entire system.

Edit: I should add, failure of a CSC on a brand new car is very discerning. Doesn't inspire lots of confidence in the build quality. Usually they fail later, 40-60K miles.
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Old 07-12-2015, 01:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Edit: I should add, failure of a CSC on a brand new car is very discerning. Doesn't inspire lots of confidence in the build quality. Usually they fail later, 40-60K miles.

CSCs from Nissan/infinity fail between 500 miles and +100k. Bad plastic design. Check the CSC failures thread.
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Old 07-12-2015, 02:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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CSCs from Nissan/infinity fail between 500 miles and +100k. Bad plastic design. Check the CSC failures thread.
Man that is sooo sad! It turns my stomach to know Nissan puts such shabby parts in their vehicles. I can't help but wonder what my next part failure will be.

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Old 07-12-2015, 03:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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CSCs from Nissan/infinity fail between 500 miles and +100k. Bad plastic design. Check the CSC failures thread.
Lol. I'm well familiar with that thread. We'll see when mine becomes a statistic Another 80K+ to go to hit 100K.
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Old 07-12-2015, 04:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Lol. I'm well familiar with that thread. We'll see when mine becomes a statistic Another 80K+ to go to hit 100K.
Haha ! Kudo's to you ! I hope you make it.

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Old 07-12-2015, 08:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Wow that Blows!! Totally F*cked Up that a new ride with low mileage like that breaks down! NISSAN SUCKS!!

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The 370Z is turning out to be a "WEAK" car!. It has a Achilles Heel, a piece of SH*T Drive train! Cars should be built on a solid foundation, but if your drive train is Sh*t , than you have failed Nissan! A Mazda Miata or a Suburu BRZ has a stronger drive train, that is more reliable than Nissan OEM CSC! I'm beginning to regret my purchase of a Z!
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Haha ! Kudo's to you ! I hope you make it.

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Old 07-12-2015, 09:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The 370Z is turning out to be a "WEAK" car!. It has a Achilles Heel, a piece of SH*T Drive train! Cars should be built on a solid foundation, but if your drive train is Sh*t , than you have failed Nissan! A Mazda Miata or a Suburu BRZ has a stronger drive train, that is more reliable than Nissan OEM CSC! I'm beginning to regret my purchase of a Z!
That's a bit much I have a problem with the way Nissan has handled certain issues (the ESCL and CSC in particular). But the Z does not deserve to be disparaged for them. If you think a Miata or BRZ is that much better, by all means you are welcome to trade your Z for one

You're attributing the quality of one small part of the drivetrain to the entire system. The MT holds quite a bit of power before needing to be upgraded itself. There is a CF driveshaft upgrade, but the stock one is certainly not garbage. No comment on the differential lol. But for street use, the stock system is absolutely adequate with the exception of seemingly random CSC failures. For *most* of that stock system to also be able to handle power increases and track duty with typical upgrades (like clutch and differential) is pretty impressive in my book. This is a $30K sports car after all. I will admit Miata doors are fuckin amazing, but Miatas and BRZs I'm sure have their own faults. The question I feel is more relevant than what those issues are is whether Mazda or Toyobaru treat their customers the same as Nissan with respect to those issues.

FWIW, I took care of a few minor issues I had with the Z (Z1 CSC kit, RJM clutch pedal assembly, tune for throttle lag), and the car drives amazing for me now. I did the installs myself (except for the tune) and the total cost for those three items was about the same or less than what most dealers would charge to put another garbage CSC in your Z if it fails out of warranty.
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Old 07-12-2015, 03:01 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I'm not sure I entirely agree with this. I don't see how the MC can influence SC failure.

The reason for replacing the MC is because of difficulty in bleeding the system when replacing the CSC. This becomes an issue on higher mileage cars, not brand new cars. For lack of a better term, an "aged" MC has more wear inside and may leak (to some extent) internally. As a result, it's difficult and/or impossible to get air out of the system.

On a car with 1900 miles (OP), this should not be an issue. After the car is aged - 50, 60, 70K miles, and clutch/csc replacement is necessary, then absolutely, replace the MC too.

My recommendation, change the fluid in the reservoir once a year. Use some kind of suction device to suck out most (not all) of the fluid from the reservoir. Replenish. Drive the car a few days then repeat. Do this 2 or 3 times to renew the fluid. Every 2 years do a thorough flush. Doing this removes contaminants from the clutch line and should prolong life of the entire system.

Edit: I should add, failure of a CSC on a brand new car is very discerning. Doesn't inspire lots of confidence in the build quality. Usually they fail later, 40-60K miles.
I agree... Has anyone ever "bench bleed" a Nissan CMC??? I saw other manufacturers do so on YouTube but they weren't Nissan CMC's

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Old 07-21-2015, 11:01 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Jsolo View Post
I'm not sure I entirely agree with this. I don't see how the MC can influence SC failure.

The reason for replacing the MC is because of difficulty in bleeding the system when replacing the CSC. This becomes an issue on higher mileage cars, not brand new cars. For lack of a better term, an "aged" MC has more wear inside and may leak (to some extent) internally. As a result, it's difficult and/or impossible to get air out of the system.

On a car with 1900 miles (OP), this should not be an issue. After the car is aged - 50, 60, 70K miles, and clutch/csc replacement is necessary, then absolutely, replace the MC too.

My recommendation, change the fluid in the reservoir once a year. Use some kind of suction device to suck out most (not all) of the fluid from the reservoir. Replenish. Drive the car a few days then repeat. Do this 2 or 3 times to renew the fluid. Every 2 years do a thorough flush. Doing this removes contaminants from the clutch line and should prolong life of the entire system.

Edit: I should add, failure of a CSC on a brand new car is very discerning. Doesn't inspire lots of confidence in the build quality. Usually they fail later, 40-60K miles.
I completely agree with the MC stuff. I think many people are over zealous about replacing both when the only information has been from a few techs saying that think it maybe causing an issue too.

One thing of note in my car is that I changed the clutch fluid a few months after I changed my brake fluid. Boiled the stock clutch fluid on the track because I never realized test pipes or HFCs with out a heat shield are a bit too close to the stock line. Anyway I have a brake fluid tester (test water content) the older brake fluid is still at less then 1% water content but the clutch fluid is already over 4% and a dark brown. I am going to change it soon but water seems to be getting into the clutch fluid very easily.
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