Nissan 370Z Forum

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-   -   Kansas City (http://www.the370z.com/mid-western-region/36314-kansas-city.html)

victorofhavoc 04-03-2015 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m3chhawk (Post 3158374)
Meh, not exactly true.

i personally feel a road tune is the most ideal because a dyno simulates perfect conditions and you rarely get that. e-Tunes are road tunes that take longer because a person isn't in the car with you. I've never let a tuner solely give me a dyno tune...it's always road then touchup low end and redline fueling a bit on the dyno

m3chhawk 04-03-2015 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by victorofhavoc (Post 3158648)
i personally feel a road tune is the most ideal because a dyno simulates perfect conditions and you rarely get that. e-Tunes are road tunes that take longer because a person isn't in the car with you. I've never let a tuner solely give me a dyno tune...it's always road then touchup low end and redline fueling a bit on the dyno

I don't disagree as a general statement, but the Z/UpRev doesn't have a usable air/fuel or the ability to record the knock sensor.

Also an eddy current dyno allows you to properly simulate road load coefficients.

tower74 04-04-2015 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m3chhawk (Post 3158374)
Meh, not exactly true.

Agreed. I did this with my first turbo charged Z and it was a nightmare. You only receive a basic tuning screen and unless you know exactly what you are looking at they can screw up your car and they will not be held responsible. You really need a real tuner to see what is happening and what he is feeling. It was hard to describe some of the things happening unless you do it every day not when you are road tuning it for the first time. Hell, when I put it back to stock and loading the stock tune it almost screwed up my car because we forgot to remove the larger injectors. Leave it to the experts when it comes to tuning. Trust me.

Gilianz 04-05-2015 09:47 AM

http://i.imgur.com/SLrLzwXl.jpg

A little preview

victorofhavoc 04-08-2015 02:56 PM

no chatter from this page in a bit. Anyone planning on going to the autox race this weekend? race 1 of the season!

Gilianz 04-15-2015 10:32 AM

Alright, well I have to rotors on and the brake pads on. Just gotta get tires on the wheels then mount up and align them. Hopefully the bed in for the brakes are too much of a hassle. I spun the rotors after putting them on and it seemed like it was uneven. Hopefully that is just because it hasn't seated completely due to there not being tightened all the way.

Ghostvette 04-15-2015 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilianz (Post 3169529)
Alright, well I have to rotors on and the brake pads on. Just gotta get tires on the wheels then mount up and align them. Hopefully the bed in for the brakes are too much of a hassle. I spun the rotors after putting them on and it seemed like it was uneven. Hopefully that is just because it hasn't seated completely due to there not being tightened all the way.

Did you put enough lug nuts on to keep the rotor straight? If not, then that's why it felt uneven. ;)

Put the wheels on, put the lug nuts on snug (don't torque yet), put the car on the ground, now torque to proper value. Press on the brake pedal a couple of times to seat the pads against the rotors before you start the car and move it. As long as you didn't get grease on the rotors when you assembled the caliper and pads to the bracket, you should be fine. I'm sure there are steps people take to 'bed' the pads, but in my experience, it's not really necessary. That being said, I wouldn't go out and try to go from 60 to zero in 3 seconds... :stirthepot:

Gilianz 04-15-2015 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ghostvette (Post 3169907)
Did you put enough lug nuts on to keep the rotor straight? If not, then that's why it felt uneven. ;)

Put the wheels on, put the lug nuts on snug (don't torque yet), put the car on the ground, now torque to proper value. Press on the brake pedal a couple of times to seat the pads against the rotors before you start the car and move it. As long as you didn't get grease on the rotors when you assembled the caliper and pads to the bracket, you should be fine. I'm sure there are steps people take to 'bed' the pads, but in my experience, it's not really necessary. That being said, I wouldn't go out and try to go from 60 to zero in 3 seconds... :stirthepot:

Yeah, I put the wheels back on so I can drive to the shop. They straightened out. And I plan to just daily drive to bed them in. There is not many places i can go from 60 to 20 constantly in KC.

victorofhavoc 04-16-2015 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilianz (Post 3170183)
Yeah, I put the wheels back on so I can drive to the shop. They straightened out. And I plan to just daily drive to bed them in. There is not many places i can go from 60 to 20 constantly in KC.

Freeway ramps on i70 would work just fine...I used them for this purpose.

There are some pads/rotors that don't need a bed in process, and some really do. If yours do and you daily drive it without bed in, you'll notice some discoloration that looks like warping on the rotor. The only thing it will do is age your rotors faster (how much is arguable). If you ever track the car you'll notice some pedal vibration that will feel like brake fade, but isn't.

Gilianz 04-20-2015 04:01 AM

Alright, well here is the finished product. Also has anyone added a fog light to their Z yet? I'm thinking it would be something cool to add but looks complicated with all the wiring needed to be done.
http://i.imgur.com/ci9vSejl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/TO7hQD6l.jpg

m3chhawk 04-20-2015 08:59 AM

Looks really good dude.

The fog light is easy. You just need to pull one of the tail lights. There is a DIY floating around on here that shows you which wires to tap. Just get a couple of high quality, insulated in-line wire taps and you won't have any issues.

Gilianz 05-08-2015 05:32 PM

Hmm, so I'm entertaining the idea of selling my Tomei and going for a full replica partial carbon Zele and custom exhaust, If the guy hadn't sold it yet. My question is how much do you think it would be to get it painted? Unfortunately my car is not silver so would like to know before I make any decisions.

tower74 05-11-2015 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilianz (Post 3192542)
Hmm, so I'm entertaining the idea of selling my Tomei and going for a full replica partial carbon Zele and custom exhaust, If the guy hadn't sold it yet. My question is how much do you think it would be to get it painted? Unfortunately my car is not silver so would like to know before I make any decisions.

Hmmm. I've still have a REAL rear ZELE rear never installed. I will almost give it away to get it out of my house. Hell, I will even deliver it...if it isn't to far.


When I had the front Zele installed, it cost me about $500 for them to paint the front. I also preinstalled it before giving it to them. That way they couldn't charge me for installation or fitment issues.

Gilianz 05-11-2015 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tower74 (Post 3194248)
Hmmm. I've still have a REAL rear ZELE rear never installed. I will almost give it away to get it out of my house. Hell, I will even deliver it...if it isn't to far.


When I had the front Zele installed, it cost me about $500 for them to paint the front. I also preinstalled it before giving it to them. That way they couldn't charge me for installation or fitment issues.

Hmm, well I would be all over that however I have a tomei that just would not fit unless some things were done to the bumper.

victorofhavoc 05-11-2015 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilianz (Post 3194567)
Hmm, well I would be all over that however I have a tomei that just would not fit unless some things were done to the bumper.

easier to mod the exhaust than the bumper. There have been several people around the forums to make their dual tip into a quad to fit the Zele rear


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