Yeah, I'm selling them for 800 picked up

After I get it repainted... I'm gonna get it clear bra.

Cool Kai...

Tuner fest in Portsmouth if anyone's down.

Flex agent can severely yellow your paint. Byproduct of trying to get it to be more flexible. That's fiberglass so there really won't be much in the way of flex. If you get enough flex to chip/crack the paint, you'll be looking at bigger problems such as cracked/broken fiberglass. I wouldn't even suggest they add more flex agent. Get it painted and clear bra the front end after the paint has fully cured. This takes about 30-45 days.

Suggestion for when you go to pick it up from the paint shop. Make damn sure the paint matches. My paint guy had a seriously hard time color matching my **** and it isn't even the 40th color. Lots of shops tend to veer into the reds. Mine was yellow and then red after the repaint. You won't get an exact match but make sure you are ok with it before you roll out.

Also check the fitment around the light housings. Push where the tabs are supposed to be and see if it pops in and then back out when you release. That'll tell you if they actually fitted it correctly. Sometimes they start sanding and cutting and it'll create serious gaps that you won't initially notice. Check and make sure your fender liners are tucked and locked in like they're supposed to be and not hanging free.

Also, MAKE SURE THEY FIT THE DAMN THING BEFORE THEY PAINT IT!!!!!

If there are fitment problems you have to contact the vendor before they paint it or it is on you!

3M has a new clear bra product out that is incredibly thin (almost like plastic wrap) that is remarkable in effectiveness. I know a guy with a new GT3 that got it on the entire car. Can't tell it is even on there.

:supergay:

John, I might have you stop by the shop with me before I pick her up. LOL... I am paranoid that I will get a rock chip if I waited 30 days because this is my DD.

Lol. If I'm available I'll join you. But yeah man. That's part of the hell that is modding your dd. I had several rental cars for several days at a time. Sucks. But I think that once you do this you will soon find that you'll want a cheap beater for a daily. Not to beat this again but... Fiberglass. Trust me on this. If you go through the trouble to do all this work, get a dd. Repairing fiberglass, while not the worst thing in the world to do, is still a bitch. Not to say it can't happen on a weekend cruise in the sticks, but it is less likely than typical day to day driving.

This is my 3rd body kit that I've owned, but the first for my Z. I know the aches and pains of keeping it clean... I won't drop my ride this time (so stressful getting in and out of driveways) and I will get a clear bra this time around.

BTW, I found a good deal on some Volk GTS in phantom black. I think that would look good with the ZL kit.

Does anyone know of a reputable exhaust shop? I need to weld some SS quad tips to the FI exhaust. I hope it does not change the sound of the exhaust too much...

I am thinking about this for the ZL rear bumper...

http://www.the370z.com/members/bkngo...ad-tip-top.jpg
Requires welding onto existing pipe.
•Sharp Edge - Highly polished stainless steel.
•Double walled tips.
•Dual outlet - Single inlet.
•Slant cut.
•Round inlet - dual round outlets.
•Inlet Diameter: 2.5"
•Outside Diameter: Dual Round 3"
•Overall Width: 6.38"
•Overall Length: 9.5"

I'm going with this for the mesh sheets:

http://www.the370z.com/members/bkngo...black-mesh.jpg

Oh ok. Gotcha. Well good luck no matter what!

If you find an exhaust shop that can do some good welding let me know. I'm still looking myself.

John, I will... I might even ask some of my HT friends :)