Thanks, I wanted to know your point of view so thanks guys, you have confirmed my doubts about open westgates, I'm going to have the recirculated as I previously disscused that with Sasha.

If you have some thougts about what else should I think about with this awsome kit feel free to share.

I'm going to choose Apexi avcr boost controller, heard that they do the job perfectly. I imagine that it is a must to limit the boost at first two gears.

First gear is kind of self-limiting in that since the engine doesn't really see enough load to hit full boost. You'll break the tires loose first. In second gear my tires break loose at wastegate pressure, so no boost controller is going to help too much there. Just go ahead and get rid of the idea that there's any traction in first and second. :rofl2:

You beat me to it. I haven't even tried to go full throttle yet and still have traction problems in the first 2 gears :rofl2: I'm starting to think a good old fashion manual boost controller might be the way to go after all. I'm trying to see if I can find one local today before my tune tomorrow. If not, I may just toss in the 10psi springs as Sasha suggested.

When it's cold out, first is a 1/4 throttle gear. Second will allow 1/3 throttle before the tires break loose. You either baby it through the top of second or short shift into third and go WOT.

That sounds pretty much spot on. It's going to take some finesse to put the power down.

And that's on 285 rears. Next time I'm going with 305s and seeing if that gives me more useable power in second.

I've got 305s but with the cold weather they still break loose easily. I'm sure it'll be a different story once it starts warming up though.

In the heat of summer you'll be down 30-50whp or so, so they'll hook just fine.

:(

Plus the tires won't be the equivalent of hockey pucks.

What kind of tires are you guys running? I still have my stock nismo tires. They are still at like 85% tread. No point getting rid of them so I figure I would just use them up.

Hankook V12s

I'm on OE Nismo tires.

Yeah, so you'lll be able to use 1/2-2/3 throttle in second. First is still useless, there's just a higher margin for error launching the car.

What kind of tires are you guys planning to run after burning the current ones up? I am thinking about Toyo R888s

Not sure just yet. My tires are basically brand new and I don't put a lot of miles on the car so I have some time. I've heard good things about the R888s and they're definitely on my list of possible replacements.

Can't you just turn the gain down on your boost controller?

You know all about that? :bowrofl:

I had to man. Couldn't resist.

You can't run less than waste gate pressure.

That's cold :rofl2: All in good fun, Cosmo :tup:

Wow! LOL

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So I've been noodling on this and might know why the boost reading is off. Ideally it would calculate boost using the SAE.MAP PID but that's not available on our car. So instead it calculates CALC.MAP using SAE.MAF, SAE.IAT, SAE.RPM, CONST.ENGINE_DISPLACEMENT, and CONST.VOLUMETRIC_EFFICIENCY. Since the SAE parameters are all available, we just have to put in the engine displacement (which is straightforward) and the volumetric efficiency in the vehicle settings. The tricky one is the volumetric efficiency. There are rough calculations you can do if you have your peak torque value. I'll have that after the tune tomorrow. I can calculate it off of my baseline run but that's not accurate with the turbo now installed. I might play with it a little tonight to see if I can dial it in by trial and error.

And most of third...

I'm on Michelin PSS 305's

Have them measure boost on the dyno and then calibrate the volumetric efficiency as they do dyno runs.

Yeah I was basically going to use the max boost from the dyno runs as a target and adjust the VE to match it. Just curious, how do they measure boost for the dyno runs?

Never done/seen it before, but I would assume they just tee the source on the charge pipe.

They will T-into whatever boost reference source is available (probably charge pipe).

Have you ruled out adding a boost gauge/sending unit of some sort? I really like the idea of having a measure of boost at the intake manifold separate from any calculations or ecu interpretations so that I know exactly what the engine is seeing. I have mine tapped into the rear of the intake manifold, which was very simple. Just my :twocents:

:iagree:

I haven't ruled it out. I was hoping the electronic gauges would work better. PLX does make a boost sensor module that I could hook up and use that value instead of a calculation. It just sucks because I have the original kiwi wifi and would need to get the newer one to hook up the sensor. I might just bite the bullet and do that though if I can't get an accurate reading from the calculation method. You're really never 100% sure with readings anyways. I had a boost gauge on my STi that was off by a couple psi too. My tuner called the gauge "optimistic".

My boost gauge is off by .2 psi.

There's a lot of guys selling gauges and stuff since they're changing their mind on boost. You might be able to vulture a gauge for cheap.

Post up if you ever figure out the DashCommand settings...would be nice to use that. I'm running Ventus RS-3 305/35/19 on the back and have a hard time keeping good traction when driving hard 1-3 gears in low 60F temps....really have to be sensitive w/ the throttle and pay attention to the boost coming on. I had 295 Michelin PSS just a couple months ago and they weren't any better...having an aftermarket differential helps a little I think.

I agree, the boost gauges are never 100% accurate. I had a PLX boost sensor on my car when I had my PLX gauge setup. It worked well. My only gripe was that it only showed boost OR vacuum, not both. Maybe they have fixed that by now. If you are planning on running an electronic boost controller, that can serve as a boost gauge as well.


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Yeah not saying they're all off, but they can be. I'll keep an eye out for deals but I like the idea of having it all on screen and not having to mount a gauge somewhere :tup:

Will do ;) Although it would likely need to be tweaked a bit for your setup. Based on your peak torque number (race tune), I'm calculating a VE of 185% for you :icon14:

Glad the boost sensor worked well for you. I'll be running it through Dash Command on AppRadio which has customizable gauges. They show vacuum and boost on the same gauge :tup:

Alex at Motion Lab came through and is going to have a manual boost controller waiting for me when I arrive for the tune tomorrow :tup:

This whole time I never realized you were in NC lol. Motion lab is awesome and tuned my supercharger and turbo setup. If I'm free I might drive up there to check it out.

:rofl2: Yeah man swing on by if you have time. I'll be there at 10:30 and I'm guessing the tuning will start around 11:30.

I just went out and played with dash command a little. You can definitely dial in the boost readings by adjusting the VE. I settled on 99% for now. That was showing a peak of 8.1 psi during a pull in 3rd gear. I still wasn't full throttle so I'll probably need to play with it some more but I just wanted to kind of prove that it can be dialed in.

Lets see how much a comedian he is when we meet one day and I guarantee you I will be the only one laughing.

Easy fella.

Anyways, I figured out that rattle. My h-pipe was knocking against the crossmember. I couldn't get the exhaust adjusted any higher so I used some washers on the crossmember to get some more clearance. Took it for a spin and that solved it :tup:

Puckshaw did you think about move up the rev limiter by the tune? I know some guys set it higher (8k RPM) with NA but do not know if it is safe with FI setups.

It's not safe with NA or FI applications. The guys running 8k redlines are asking for trouble. The oil pump will beat itself to death. Its internals are crappy sintered metal and they will come apart at high rpm.

I've heard the same about the oil pump. I don't see any need to chance it.