Yup I was impressed with how well everything tucks up in there. No concerns about scraping on anything :tup:

This is true. I will hold a level up to the subframe and snap some picture this weekend.

I am still a bit nervous though because I'm pretty low and I had scrape marks on my factory cats.

Now that's what a call picture of the day!

bigger is always better but the advantage of the T25 is less turbo lag so it all depend on the customer needs right?

insane!!!! :yum:

Ahh, but remember, with a twin scroll you have the energy of all 6 cylinders driving only one turbine wheel, while utilizing the power of exhaust scavenging due to equal length primaries. So nothing is really lost as far as spool goes.

ugh such a gorgeous kit :yum:

Well crap. Can't get the car to start. It turns over strong but won't fire. Scavenge pump is working and I believe I can hear the fuel pump prime. No engine codes. Can't find any missing connections. Not sure how to track this down :(

Did you load the tune? Did you get the fuel pump in and connected correctly? It's most likely a simple problem.

Yup loaded the tune. The scavenge pump is loud as hell so at first I couldn't tell if the fuel pump was priming. I disconnected the scavenge pump and turned to ACC on and heard a short noise come from the fuel pump area that I assume is the pump priming.

You did install the 340lph fuel pump? I don't think you can hear it inside the fuel tank.

Sent you an email on things to check. The scavenge pump will be very quiet once engine oil starts going through it.

Yeah I installed the new pump. I hear something from that area when I first turn to ACC on. Not sure what else it would be.

Thank you sir ;)

Confirmed the fuel pump is working. It sprays fuel when switched to ACC on.

I guess I am going to have to drive to NC to get that thing going for ya.... Recheck all electrical connections....................................... ........ Come on man get that thing going!!!!!!

Oh you'll hear it. I'm thinking fuel. Might have to re heck fuel pump setup.

I'll be back home in a few hours to work on it some more. Can't find any missing connections but I'm going to keep looking. Was thinking of pulling a plug and getting someone to crank the car to see if it's making spark. Bad idea? Going to check all the fuses first. GTR plugs come with the proper gap set already, right?

Is there a good way to check if the injectors are working?

Fuel pump is good. Tested it this morning and sprayed some fuel in a bucket.

Spark plug gap would not cause this non start condition, and they are gaped properly out of the box. I also emailed you on the harness....it is easy to forget to plug the injector harness to the main engine harness..double check that. You can pull the spark plugs to see if they are wet. This is the best/safest way to find out if the injectors are working.

Will do. Should be home in a couple hours and will report back on what I find :tup:

What is that small air filter for and what is it's functions? Great build BTW! :tup:

My vote is on the main injector electrical plug

That's the next thing I'm going to check. I'm almost positive I connected it but I'm going to take a look. I just pulled a plug and can't really tell if there was fuel in the cylinder.

Those are crankcase breathers. This is to prevent boost from pressurizing the crankcase.

Winner! Fuel rail harness was on but wasn't clicked in all the way! Reassembling now and going to give it another shot. Fingers crossed!

She fired right up! Holy crap that's a relief! Thanks everyone for the suggestions and another shout out to Sasha for going above and beyond with his customer service. He was trading emails with me at 1am last night helping me diagnose the problem.

Ok now to button her up again and check for any leaks. :tup:

Wouldn't he then get a thin film of oil all over the engine bay?

Not at all....has never been an issue.

Nate, glad to the hear that all is well.

Wo WO WO!!!! You paid a guy that doesn't even live in our country and got your kit within a month. That's crazy!!!

LOL Puck your car is awesome congrats brotha I'm very happy for you and I'm sure you 'll get the little gremlins out pretty quick.

Lol GTM still hasn't even gotten me my refund yet and I've already bought and installed another turbo kit.

Just took the car for a spin. Ho lee sheeet. This thing sounds incredible :D It's cold and wet out so as soon as I start making boost the tires just spin. Never broken the tires loose at 60 mph with partial throttle before lol. I do have a small exhaust leak at one of the v bands that I haven't been able to square away. Might need to just use some gasket maker and let it sit overnight.

Tomorrow should be better weather so I'll take some videos.

excited to see another one of these kits tearing up the streets... in for vids :)

Congrats on getting the install done! Can't wait to see this thing in person!

glad you got it figured out, cant wait to see the end results

The rear v-band on the down pipe leaked on me the first time. Take everything "after" the v-band loose to remove the tension. Then tighten the v-band and snug up everything else. V-bands no like tension.

Congrats on the start and drive!

Congratulations on a job well done. You're gonna need to get that refund from GTM to keep you in tires!!! :p

>>>>>Puckshaw's Boosted Performance Twin Scroll Single Turbo Build<<<<<
 

Thanks guys!

Yeah both rear v-bands are leaking. I loosened everything from the waste gates back to the y-pipe but just couldn't get them to line up flush. They're really close, but off just enough that they leak a little. I put some red rtv on them both and tightened everything down. I'll check it in the morning and see if that did the trick.

Tune is scheduled for Friday!!!

you almost make me want to purchase the kit ! ...
hhehe

The V-bands are a bit of a pain because the flex couplers are stiff when new, and ther is always slight warping no matter what you do when welding. I have tried to tack weld the V-bands in 8 places before doing a solid weld, but they still warp ever so slightly. You will never hear an exhaust leak though..because the warping is very minimal, invisible to the naked eye.

After a few heat cycles the manual calls for re-tightening things, because it takes a bit of time for everything to "seat". I am assuming you have some condensation leaking, and that is normail at first. It will go away once you drive the car and park it again...may only be present on cold starts.

The most important things is that there are no leaks before the turbo, and on the downpipe where it clamps on to the turbine housing. This would mess with spool, and the wideband reading. That is why I made the modification to the down pipe, so there is no chance of it leaking at the turbo.

If there is anything else I can do/help with...I am only an email away :tup:

You are local..I think...and with an A/T. Maybe we need to get together in the spring, to see if there is any way I can make the kit work with the A/T transmission.