How do you like the stance coilovers since they have been on your car for awhile now? Im about to get the stance pro comp 2's with the swift springs. How have they survived the spirited driving?

Don't think they make those for the Z34, but either way...

The coilovers are great for the money and have held up fine to the one autocross and ~200 street miles I've been able to put on them.

I can't really speak to their long term durability, however, Spohn has put hundreds of track miles on his set and swears by them.

Best true type rear coilover for the money by far, I think.

I called them up. They do make them but it's make to order and said it would take 4-6 weeks. I just am interested In Build quality and durability. But if there are a few people here with them and happy then I think I'm going to go for it. I guess they also have an option for swift springs as well so I might go that route. Thanks for the info though.

Spent 3 hours working on the dash wiring harness.

Not even close to half way done.

What a mess!

I feel your pain! Mine took forever.

That's three hours you could have spent making endlinks. Just sayin. I heard a clunk under the car today. That means you're on the clock. :rofl2:

I'm strapped on R&D funds until May. I'll put together a parts list, get a price, you paypal it to me and I'll buy the stuff and build them. ;)

You dodged a bullet. I threw it up on the lift and it was my imagination. That bought you time. Still, go ahead and get me that parts list and I'll take a look.

KK.


Since you have the same bars as me, it'll be easy to make the alignment perfect. I think you'll like what I come up with.

Not a lot of "progress" to show...

Working on trimming down the dash harness, gotta extend and adapt all the various switchgear connections to put them into my own enclosure with simple/compact switches and buttons rather than the bulky OEM stuff.

Also mulling over how to re-locate my chair a bit.

Oh, and I am thinking about a Stillen front lip to seal to a splitter. Dunno tho, still on the fence.

So I F-ed up and cut the harness for the multi-switch stalks out.

Whoops.


So Now I have to wire in replacement switchgear for the Headlights and Wipers. Because this car is so heavily CAN-bus-driven (compared to cars I've worked on in the past, though it holds not a candle to, say, a Benz) I was initially concerned that this would create a problem for me, but alas, it's super simple.

Attached below are sloppily annotated wiring diagrams.

Three position switches (I am thinking some boss looking rocker switches) will be used for both solutions.

For the wipers, it will be setup like this:
1) Off
2) Low Speed Circuit
3) High Speed Circuit

For the headlights, I want to try
1) Off
2) Low Beams (HID)
3) Low AND High Beams

I figure, if I am using the headlights at all, it's because I am on the track in the dark. If that's the case, and I feel the need for high beams, why not turn every stinkin light on that I can? It looks to me like they are individually fused, so I just need to be sure the supply to the battery (which is like 6 inches from the relays in question) is of sufficient gauge to handle the increased (almost doubled) current draw, and if not, replace it with heavier gauge.

Wipers:


Headlamps:

cool, can't wait to see how it works.

I am also working on a cheap/easy treatment for the steering column that eliminates ~10 lbs and cleans up/secures the steering linkages.

More info on that once I am further along.

^ Nice, in for details!

Here are various photos and info.

Full Assembly:

Snap rings on both ends. One bearing pressed into the steel housing closest to the steering wheel. The other pressed into the aluminum housing and secured with a snap ring.








Snap rings removed and shaft assembly removed from the two housings. A lot of pulling with the pullers and hammer-based encouragement needed to get this far. Puller is mounted up here as I am pulling the steering lock collar off.



And here is the removed shaft. Need to find heim joints that fit these diameters. I am fairly sure I'm going to need to get the fat end turned at a machine shop to bring it down to 1" (minus a few thousandths for clearance) as heim joints larger than 1" seem to be pretty damned rare.


You also need to remove a bracket from the top of the column assembly. This is the bracket that the instrument cluster attaches to. It's fixed to the steel half of the assembly, the part that is closest to the wheel.

More info on that in the next post...

It appears that the steering shaft telescopes in and out on splines. I believe this is how they accommodate the telescoping steering wheel adjustment. I plan to fix this in place using sway bar lock rings. Simple and effective. They'll be used to fix the shaft with the heim joints as well so that it cannot move in the Z axis at all.