wstar's Journal

SPOHN

I didn't have any issues with the dust shield. But you and I run totally different rotor setups. I didn't see a point in the shims either so I tossed them.

The ducting wasn't bad. I ran it at full lock then tucked it in with the ties. I ended up cutting the slack out at the front flanges insted so I could manipulate the hoses in the wheel well until all was complete. But here again I run a 19x9.5 on 265 tire. But stil have lots of clearence.

I flirted with the idea of making a cut in the fender well but decided against. Good thing I could always still do it. It is a tight fit the way Stillen does it but it will be fine being they did all the testing in this location and got the claimed results.

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wstar

Well, my issue wasn't rotor related. Now I wish I took pics . But I'm referring to the curled up "edges" on the back (away from the rotor) side of the metal outcropping that holds the flange, hitting the fixed (relative to it) suspension member behind it.

Yeah I did my cutting at the front as well, way easier. Did you route as their pics show (i.e. the final tie on the lower suspension around way out to the back)? That was what caused the most problems for me. There didn't seem to be any way to tie down out there and have both enough slack for the stretch direction, and not have it crumple up right into the side of the tire in the opposite lock direction. Your tires aren't that much skinnier than mine, either. Did you check the "short" steering direction not rubbing?

Yeah I don't get this at all. On the passenger side, I could've done a tight fit with just Stillen's recommendation (removing that small plastic square) and doing some extra bends. But on the driver's side, even when you remove the little plastic square in the wheel well, that only solves half the problem. There was no other hole on the other side (more towards the bumper) to reach that area in the first place, without cutting the vertical plastic piece that has the little built in round hole in it. Did you just force the hose to work with that hole? Seemed small for it to me, but it was moot since I have cooler lines running through there already, and both certainly can't fit.

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SPOHN

I see what your saying. It is funny and this is where every inch matters. After full lock I got a tad bit more and count on the duct to flex as it should to work. Here's some pics.

This is the full lock and I installed the tie around the lower coilover bracket.



Here's when wheel is straight.



It is very tight and you have to use the push pull technique to get threw as you see above. Below is a pic of passenger side.

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wstar

Ah, I see what made that work for you that I didn't do: that last tie going around near the base of the shock absorber. Mine would "bulge" out in that area when turned the other way (compressed instead of stretched), rubbing into the wheel. I solved it a different way, we'll see how my routing holds up As soon as I get my parts to finish up my rotor business I'll be back in the wheel wells again and get some photos.

Yeah I get that on the passenger side, I routed it like that once before I just decided to cut things and go straight. But the driver's side, I don't even see a hole to squish through. Unless you're talking about sending the pipe up very high (over some other plastic bits, several inches "up" out of its natural line).

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Journal thread / Car setup details