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I need a reducer for the two 1" lines returning from the A2W to the swirl pot. The two lines will reduce to a single 1" line. I have three 1" NPT bungs that will need to go into an aluminum box.
Before hitting the metal break with aluminum, I used heavy paper stock (picture frame board) to get the dimensions. The box will end up next to the passenger side headlight near the swirl pots. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Glad I made the paper box because the first one was too large. I mean, It would probably work but it just didn't need to be that large for the purpose I needed. So I made a new template. I changed the template to two separate halves and then took it out to the shop. I then remembered that I had bought nice square aluminum stock previously... That is great news! Because it's 90% done with no welds!
Someone on my IG had reached out to me and then informed me that the square stock would be really bad for the pump due to the dead spots in the corners. Looked up the information and sure enough, he was right. There would be a high likely hood of air bubbles being produced as well. Simple solution was to 45 the ends. Now to weld.... But first, the waste gates needed to be broke down because they need to be Cerakoted too. I talked to the Mr. Coating Dude and he said that my parts were due for coating Wednesday, and its the day before Wednesday when I broke them down. What that means is money was saved because all the coating is being done at once and secondly... there's a 3-4 week delay for the coating process because he is really backed up. Actually.... he is backed out WAY more now. Point being... I got lucky getting it in when I did. Pan on the transmission had to be dropped for the Lokar Transmission Dipstick. It was a pricey item to purchase for essentially a tube. However, upon installation I saw why. The quality of all of it was great! The dipstick comes with a transport plug that locks in it doesnt leak. When the transmission is back in the firewall mounted line can lock back in. First picture shows the transport plug and the second picture shows the line plugged into it. Build quality for the Waste Gate is top notch. The thing that surprised me was that the valve inside the gate is made out of inconel. The valve is quite heavy due to that BUT it will not melt down. I'll find a video of it. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
woooooooooohoooooo. Getting closer buddy!
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Started the drain/fill procedure to get rid of the heavy crude from my tank. The tank was drained and then filled with ethanol. Ethanol should break down any of the sludge in the tank. The first fill already looks WAY better than before.
I have new stainless steel high flow filters for my pump. The old filters will not be used. A buddy of mine offered to help with some thermal protection for the alternator. He made a comment to someone on my FB that sums it up pretty well so I'm just going to copy and paste what he wrote: We make the exhaust for the current Ford GT. The muffler is completely wrapped in this material. The material is 0.2mm 321 stainless steel with a small dimple pattern for strength. Under the shield we use Unifrax 3mm thick thermal mat which reduces radiant temps up to 200*C. All the straps are 304SS BandIt straps applied with a pneumatic gun that tightens, locks it and trims the excess. This is a five hour hack job that came out pretty nice. This will work way better than a SS or Ti wrap. ------------------ So yeah, it's not perfect but it will suite my needs nicely. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
that's some nice looking creosote!
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I guess I could say ceramic coat but this is the name brand Cerakote.
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I know this post will not seem like a lot because there wasn't a lot of work done last night. BUT. sometimes that's just how it goes. I feel it's worth while showing not every night you can get a lot of work done when working on a project. Sometimes getting out there and doing SOMETHING is better than NOTHING.
Exhaust manifolds are on with BTR multi layer steel gaskets, firecore wires on and ARP exhaust manifold bolts (hey, good bolts need a mention). Take a look where the Lokar Oil dipstick ended up. The Lokar transmission dipstick needs to be mounted... but I need to find some threaded inserts for that so I can bolt it in. Exhaust manifold shielding will work absolutely beautiful. I have a couple lines that will run on the bottom side in proximity. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Flushed out the tank again. Looks like the bottom needs a slight scrub and then I'll be good.
Passenger side up pipe went on reasonable well. Driver's side has a tad too much heat shield and insulation. Looks like I will need to remove the belt and alternator before that goes on. Alternator will likely get touched by the ginder too. I took the opportunity to paint the BSI letters on the gates with white VHT paint. The paint dried for 24hrs. The gates were taped off and then hit with high temp clear. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Turbo Guard came in, only took 1 month. I'm surprised how well they match to the turbo's color.
The alternator was removed from the car so that the exhaust manifold could be attached to the up pipe. WAY easier that way. I'll need to see how much material I need to remove from the alt now... shouldn't be too much. I can probably blast the up pipe with a hammer too. The foil can be knocked in a bit. Waste gates are finalized on the car. Pushlocks will be used for reference lines from the turbo. Down the road I'll use compressed air on top of the dome so I can program some traction control. I triple checked that the fire rings were on the gates before I put them on. Fun fact... I lost one and I had to order a new one. Shipping sucked from Canada. lol https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Start that damn thing for fck sake! LMAO
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Trust me, I want to.
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Off the heels of a month hiatus of my car, I'm back at it now. I had to buckled down and study for a GIAC GCFE test:
https://www.credly.com/badges/c43dd6...5-f76b17941d7f Which now brings me to my two week half days at work so that I can work on my car. 1st up. Fix the Lokar dipstick. I wasn't satisfied with the angle and how it was nearly on the manifold. Moving the dipstick into the first hole allowed for equal spacing and didn't cross over a plug. FINALLY I got around to dropping the tank. All in one day? Yup. I did have some help so that sped everything up massively. After the tank was on the ground, I shook the hell out of the tank and turned the clear fuel to milkshake (that smelled like a bad bar). A new low volume fuel pump was used to pump the ethanol into a 5 gal bucket about three times. After the fuel was out we wiped it out with a rag and brake cleaner. Today... Fuel pump goes in, fuel lines, fuel filter and tank back in... I hope. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Went to Lane Automotive, It's like Summit but a 40min drive, to get more fittings. I also picked up an Optima Red Top battery and an ICT billet hold down. Unfortunately They forgot to pick my battery hold down and I left with out double checking them loading the car. bummer.
I had to run through all the fittings like 10 times minimum in my head before heading out to Lane Automotive but I nailed it all down. I even found a trick -10orb to -8orb coupler that I can use to plumb in the dual -6 to -8. A bit of massaging was needed for the CJM fuel hat to make the -8 return work. If you check out JCHammond's build, he has crimped lines that flow like -8. Or something like that. It's far more impressive than my hood rat grinding solution. However, I needed to make what I have work. Lastly, I added some bad *** high flow mesh screens to the fuel pumps. I suspect that the tank can go back in tonight now that all the fittings are here. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
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