Definitely does. But the goal with the spreadsheet is, as much as possible, to start giving solid data. Since my field (Aerospace QA) is heavily reliant on statistical data, I wanted to do what I could to start providing that data to other people - and to figure out my own list of mods when I was planning to stay NA.

Making my self-appointed task much harder is how often people provide incomplete data. STD or SAE? 4th vs 5th gear pulls? Dyno type used? Manual vs automatic? Ton of variables. So if you're reading that list, and you want good data as a bench mark for real performance, look for data taken from the dyno you plan to use. And if you use a mustang dyno, expect that the useless hordes of mouthbreathers will say idiotic things like "lolz dude ur whp is sooo low!"

As a side note, it did help. I based my mods off of Rusty's, and with a very similar list, on the same dyno and with the same tuner, we made almost identical whp/wtq.

wellllllll you got me on there and never asked me for the information gaps lol

and to be honest i actually forgot what the difference is between SAE and STD i just know no ones wants the latter :bowrofl:

checked mine and it was on a dynojet dyno. no idea if it was SAE or STD, and i assume it was in 5th based on having the 7AT which is the 1:1 gear.

True enough! I actually collected a lot of data from dyno files people posted, and signatures.

Besides, I know you well enough to know you underwent STD testing ;)

Also, 5th is a logical gear BUT a lot (the majority) of dynos do it in 4th because of the strain it places on the dyno and car. 5th should actually read a little higher. And SAE reads lower than STD.

Morning folks!

.........:wtf2:

but dyno numbers are blah. i like my buddies shirt that says "whats your dyno trap speed?" :bowrofl:

speaking of that i need to take the GTR to do a 1/4 mile run. i really think based on my runs at that awful backwoods track is an indicator i'll be in 10s stock.

well sadly the dyno sheet they gave me was super simplified and had minimal info on it like just a trophy piece but made sense since at the time i believe i hit the biggest number with minimal mods.

Seb told me that the highest HP hes seen on an NA was like 330 something.. and the dude spent 30k on his mods.. ouch! :confused:

i was tuned/dyno'd 3/2012 and with just intakes and exhaust hit 324 which back then was unreal. i was expecting 310-320 and my baseline prior to tune was already 309.

Agreed - dyno is just a tuning tool. That's what most (idiots) forget. Your next post is on point too, if you're looking for maximized performance per dollar, you picked the right mods.

Of course since I bought used and found some amazing bargains on part outs, I feel like I did alright myself. Can't pass up FI LTH's for $425, and a $700 cbe.

This is again one of those places where you have to be careful - remember the lesson we just learned in the posts above! The dyno you use often determines your outcome. I don't have a ton of data for Seb's but I can tell you his does appear to read fairly low by comparison to other dynojets. A better indicator in cases like that is the delta, difference between your pre & post numbers.

Yah but theres so many variables that for me, Dyno numbers just give you a ball park number as far as actual HP. Not to say that you cant base your gains from different mods as long as you stick with the same Dyno. I was there for the tune, the Dyno numbers were just a bonus. Id be interested in seeing how much switching to Shell 91 would bump me up, but not $100+ interested (for another Dyno). lol

agreed 100%

im just running TP's and CBE plus intakes. literally that is what i first bought and never changed. thinks like intake mani and lower mani piece would net me like 5whp? for another 1k? nahhh im good on that lol

added an oil cooler though. that was a must.

Yah, but how many stickers do you have????:rofl2:

i have 2 - Z1 stickers, a sticker i cant remember what is is (all on my quarter windows. and 2 AAM stickers on my tower brace in the engine bay.

:tiphat:

I was just kidding with the sticker thing, we all know theyre the best bang for your buck for power! hehe.. but I cant imagine spending 30k on mods plus...say at least 20k on the Z if it was used and still being under 350hp..lol.

I'd be interested to know what he managed to spend 30k on for power. I did intakes, upgraded them, 63mm TB's, ported upper mani, LTH and CBE for uh... 2k total.

yea hence why i stopped when i did. i can easily do ported mani and whatnot but the return jsut isnt there for me.

I shouldve asked Seb what power mods he had. Or the dude had a rocket bunny kit, bagged, wrap, 20" wheels, carbon fiber interior.... and and axel back..hehe

Im about $2500 in on all my mods including the tune. Only thing left for me are new wheels and maybe upgraded brakes...Dont really need the brakes as I dont track it.. just for aesthetics ...so < 7k, Im happy.

custom mani and tbs way before anyone made them.

also think did a engine build as well for sump pump and compression.

Dude spent stupid money and then immediately turned around and sold the car for a loss. All in the chase I suppose.

:ugh:

what was his name on here?

wasnt it like elmoz or something?

Any mod'ed car would be sold at a loss though. But for what he spent is a bit over the edge.

That assumes the buyer knew the car was once modded, and that the mods were bought at list price, not removed or resold.

True. I know that with body mods, youd look for missing paint on bolts, fitment issues, paint mismatch etc... what would the signs be for performance/engine mods?

Easiest one to spot would be the holes cut (enlarged) for aftermarket intakes. Otherwise, most bolt-ons don't leave a lot of indicators.

I know that for the next one, I'm getting an oil cooler. I'm not sure about the Stillen G3s, but I suppose that if I'm going to take the bumper off to install the oil cooler, I might as well do the CAI AND a better horn.

I passed on the G3 because after installing the oil cooler, I didnt want to fiddle with trying to stuff the CAI in there. Alot of people said the stock air boxes are more than adequite, so spending the extra 500 didnt seem reasonable. But definately yes on the oil cooler! I was regularly seeing my oil temps get to 240-250 even with moderate driving in 80 degree temps. Now I've yet to see it over 220

my intakes i just had to shave a little bit but im sure it's still noticeable if youre looking for it.

That's what I did. Installed both at the same time, plus the power steering cooler.:tup:

That's why you buy a CAI used for $300. Sure, the stock boxes are "adequate" in that they supply enough air for the engine to run, but they certainly aren't more than adequate, or you wouldn't make any gains by going CAI, and every dyno ever done shows gains.

also the heat.

long tube intakes lower the air temp going into the engine. :tiphat:

**** if I remember. Too much college resin to remember small details like that.

Yeah to a point but it’s whole different level when your mid total is the price of the car.

1slow370

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...vhr-build.html

Been looking at new tires for my PowerWagon. Thinking on these.

https://www.ntwonline.com/41x14-50r1...mper-9001.html

Hit 10k on the Camry @ lunch today & then temp read 100 leaving work.
Very long day,,,got some paperwork done early-but Work is really piling up. 2 of my 8 guy’s were out.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5a19b3ce6c.pnghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...db64f1f3d4.png


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