Z1 headers + Motordyne Manifold
 

Hello guys,

I am planning to buy Z1 Motorsports VQ Performance Headers + Motordyne manifold but before i do it i need a word of advice from you.

The first thing is, i have already installed ARK DT-S exaust + Berk HFC's so my question is will the headers fit in my current exaust configuration?

Do you think i will benefit from the headers (hp/tq), approximately how much and if there is better alternative please recomend.
And are these headers going to make the car louder?

Second, Ive read the dyno facts for the motordyne manifold and they seem pretty good. What is your opinion on this manifold? doest it worth the money?

thanks in advance and sorry for the bad english :)

First off as far as I know the Z1 headers will not fit on your current berk HFC. I believe the flange configuration allows for the DE cats/ test pipes to bolt up. When you open up restriction there are improvements ie. headers exhaust etc. Have you looked at the Z1 dynos with their headers and components? This will give you a good idea to ballpark gains. Yes, headers will make your car louder as you are reducing restriction along with your berk HFC. From what I have read BERK cats have some rasp to them so I am sure this will be amplified. As far as weighing between the Z1 manifold and motordyne I say research, research, and research. The Z1 will be less cost wise and they have comparative dynos on their website with motordyne. Either way both companies have been around for sometime and supply quality parts. I personally have Z1 manifold and love it. I am not a VQ guru just observations I have made from reading the forums for quite some time.

The Z1 Header requires 350Z DE test pipes or HFCs

Go with the Z1 intake manifold over the Motordyne, same gains under the curve but with more up top.

Assuming you have stillen gen 3's already, the Z1 Intake Manifold, Z1 headers, some decent HFC's and the exhaust should net you somewhere between 330-335 WHP with a tune. You might get a few more with test pipes in place of the HFCs. Keep in mind you WILL need a tune after doing an intake manifold swap

I think i will leave the headers thing for some other time..

For the manifold i will probably pick the z1 because it is cheaper and ive never heard complains about it..

Currently i have ark dt-s ex. + berk hfc's + stillen gen 3 intakes and now when i add the z1 manifold what will happen if i dont tune my car?

Here in my country it is very hard to get tune especially for this type of car...so is it that bad if i dont tune my car?

The car will be unreliable with an intake manifold without a tune. Thats what I was told by Z1. If you cant get a tune, I would stay right where you are and not add any more bolt ons.

Can you give me recomendation on pulley?

Personally, I would never mess with a pulley, if the replacement a few grams off of balance, it could cause long term issues with the engine. THAT BEING SAID, some people will say what I just said is BS, and that it wont hurt the engine, and im sure one of them will comment on here with a suggestion.

I will however suggest a lightweight flywheel if you're looking to rev faster.

One more question :)
Do you think i can self tune my car if i buy osiris tuner?
As i said here in my country is very hard to find tuner so i was thinking if it is good idea to buy osiris tuner version and try to self tune my car, with your help normally :D

have you ever tuned a car before? If not then no don't do it if you cant get a local tuner go with standard and find a reputabale shop to E-tune your car (you send them logs, they correct a rom for it and email it to you, rinse and repeat until it runs right)

Sorry, a lot of bad info here.

You do not NEED a tune, just let the ECU work it out for 100-ish miles before you stomp on it. If the A/F ratio is off, you'll get a CEL, if it knocks you'll get a CEL. Both of which are rare if not non-existant occurrences. ESPECIALLY for a single added bolt on mod. I have every bolt on mod for the 370Z, Momentum headers. TPs, pulley, the lot. Only CEL I have had was for the TPs. And before the headers I put down 322WHP in 4th (hit the speed limiter in 5th) and on an auto.

Engine is internally balanced. If you think the cast iron, mass produced and cast OEM one is balanced, I need what you're smoking.

DE I know that you know your stuff and I respect you greatly, but Z1 did tell me that a tune is 100% required with their intake manifold

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Save all your money you are talking about and buy a boosted performance turbo kit instead...I have the z1 headers still on my car, they look nice but in terms of power, eh, not so much. Vinced pulled 322 whp out of mine as well and 272 tq, so in the end it was a waste.

just go buy their package of TP headers and the manifold

Hey, I didn't mean to come off as a prick, sorry about that!


And fair enough, I still don't see it being REQUIRED unless they change the diameter of the MAF tubing, which isn't being changed obviously.

They are of course covering their ásses, for good reason, that IF you have that .0000001% of motors and you get that "bad batch of gas" and if you are irresponsible and install a mod and immediately drive like a bat out of hell causing knock or something, then you'll blame their product, which isn't their fault. It's the end user's fault.

And YES, there are other advantages to getting a tune, but let's not go into that.



I guess that IF Z1 says that you NEED a tune to run their manifold, then you need one, but in my (maybe not so) humble opinion you don't a tune, just take it easy for a bit to let the ECU adjust

Don't they have a mail in flash service? Just send them your ecu and they put a tune on it based on your mods.

Not that I know of. Not worth wasting your time on a tune like that anyways

Z1 will do a email tune but it will not be as good as a dyno tune but can be refined if you send them your logs. I will second that Z1 specifically told me I needed a tune to run their intake manifold. I do have Gen 3's and FI exhaust as well.

Guys ive placed an order on PPE Long Tube Racing Headers with full options (ceramic coated, stainless steel...). So, now my setup will be PPE LTHs + the existing ark dts exaust. What do you think how much hp gain should i expect over the berk hfcs and stock headers?

5-7 WHP tops

i hope it will be noticeable :). What about the sound change? do you think it will be louder?

I kind of agree with the existing exhaust setup...
the potential gain is higher though...

adding to the mix of the fairly new parameters in Uprev ... that gain can be even higher than what we been used to.

Yes, I'm not favoriting how good the tuner is though, just as a rule of thumb, the FIRST of a set of breather mods gives the most power and the rest give marginal improvements. Law of diminishing returns.

Normally, from HFC to test pipe there is a gain of 3~WHP. Now, going LTH is better, but again, it's the law of diminishing returns.

:tiphat:

I am waiting to complete all the bolt ons and then i will tune my car to get the max hp out of the n/a setup.

And what about the sound change? Do you know if it is going to be louder?

Yes, louder, raspier, and hissier because you're taking that cat out

Guys what do you suggest to go with first, NST Underdrive Pulley or Motordyne manifold. Keep in mind that my car will stay untuned.no tune after mods...
So what do you think is better performance wise?

Get the MD, and order the NST because that will take a while
Untuned is ok. Again, I have every breather mod, and no tune with no issues, you'll be fine, just take it easy after you reset the ECU. Let it learn

Great! I contacted NST and they said they will have them in stock in 2 weeks :)

I'm installing the Z1 intake manifold, Stillen headers, Stillen HFCs, & Stillen full cat back exhaust system. ( also the Z1 25 tow oil cooler, but that doesn't mean anything for this question? Do you think I should get it tuned or just let the ECU relearn? The shop says the UpRev tune will eventually go back to the original settings ( ie- I will eventually lose the tuning anyways ) Since it's all bolt ons and ( I've already got K&N dual Ram intakes ), what do you guys think. Spend $700 for a tune? Or save the $ for the next set of tires I'll need? Any help is appreciated. Thx

Did you already buy the headers?
Sell them and buy the Stillen G3 instead.

And needing a tune is opinion. We have a thread just on this topic

I think its 76.54 miles for the stock ECU to complete its self tune.

/sarcasm

De5.0- you think the G3 intake is better than the Stillen Headers? Why swap my K&N typhoon intake setup for G3 ( minimal HP gain doing intake swap ) and keep the stock headers? Guess I'm missing something in your post response. I've got everything ready to go, you just don't think the headers will add that much HP compared to a better intake setup with stock headers?

Stillen headers aren't shown to add much power, others are better, especially considering that the stock headers are pretty good. G3s and other long tube intakes are shown to increase power, especially up top, and are very effective at reducing heat soak.

Plus header installation is a PITA and intake installation, even long tube, is pretty easy.

Like others have said, you are best off keeping the stock headers. The G3 is a better intake than the typhoon, better gains without question.

If the K&N intake isn't a CAI, stock is better, much less a Stillen. Why do people still buy short ram intakes on these cars?

The K&N typhoon intakes were on the car when I bought it. The only mod done so far ( 2009 Touring Coupe with Sport Package and 7 speed AT ) - don't wanna just toss the intakes when I live in AZ & the heat is so bad that the G3 intakes aren't gonna make a HUGE difference. Going to keep the stock headers, go with the Z1 intake manifold, Stillen FHCs, & Stillen Dual Cat Back Exhaust, & Z1 (25) row oil cooler. The tuning company wants $750 for the UpRev tune, but won't let me keep the cable. If I want to keep the cable, it's $750 + $450 for the tune - I think I'll pass on that unless I'm running really lean. Isn't there a good tuner that I can purchase and keep in the car that will at least let me control the fans & the throttle? Hypertech tuner looks interesting. Thanks for everyone's advice, much appreciated.

The only option is Uprev.
The way they do it is:
-Tuner is able to tune the car and you pay a license fee & dyno time. License fee is 200 dollars and the tuner time is usually 75-100 per hour
-Tuner cable is what they are offering the 750 (which seems high) plus the 450
-Pro tuner this is if you really want to tinker and get access to locked features that are not fully tested and really no warranty if you play with them.

I believe you can buy the cable directly from Uprev but do not know the exact cost after you have a license. On the other end of things that 750 seems a bit high for a N/A tune. I paid $500 for mine years ago but know there was a small discount (50-100 dollars) the tuning shop was offering to get people in.

Uprev: www.uprev.com

That's backwards. If it's really hot, the Stillen intake will make more of a difference. And those tune prices are absolute rape. Is there no one else around? No one runs hypertech. It's Uprev or Ecutek.

I meant that just swapping intakes isn't going to make so much more of a noticeable difference that I should install a G3. Obviously CAIs are going to give more than typhoon, but it's not worth it for maybe 5 HP max. - spoke with the shop who is going to do the bolt ons, the guy I spoke to said the stock headers are fine, so the a Stillen headers are going back. Still think saving the $ for the tune is worth more than paying for a G3 intake setup and tossing the ones already installed. Appreciate the help, I think Ecutek might be the way to go, but no master tuners in AZ for Ecutek, just UpRev. Since the ECU will relearn I guess I'll just see how lean it runs and if it gets bad, cough up the funds for the tune. Thanks guys

Maybe just find a good used set of hfc, not sure why your stuck on stillen but there is also berk hfc. While your at it find a used exhaust. With that money saved get actual cAi or stock air boxes and kn filters and go from there.

EXACTLY with all of the above!