So stock air boxes with K&N filters are better than what I've got already? Makes no sense. I already have the dual typhoon setup installed. So I should just swap it back to stock? The money isn't the issue, it's WASTING the money that's an issue. Stillen makes solid products & I dig their cat back setup with their HFCs. I just want some solid info, & between the shops and online I keep getting different opinions. Get a tune, don't get a tune, keep the stock headers & throw the ram air intakes away for a G3 CAI. I just want to do the right thing the first time. I'm COMPLETELY lost as to how stock boxes are better than what I've got as far as intake goes. I get the G3 is the best as far as CAI is concerned. If I want to swap that later, I can, it's the easiest mod to do. Right now I just wanna get the HFCs , exhaust, manifold, and oil cooler done. Keeping the stock headers like everyone says. I'll look into the berk products now, I've already had the Stillen parts on hold at the shop ( they had it in stock ) and I don't wanna be a **** and change everything tomorrow when I go to pay for everything. I've already switched from a Stillen oil cooler to the Z1 oil cooler as well as the Z1 manifold instead of the M370. I really appreciate everyone's advice, I guess I'll be on here all night going over everything again.

I can go with berk HFCs ( new models, BT1407-metallic substrate ) and the berk BT1409 dual exhaust system for the same price as the Stillen setup. If you guys think that's a better choice, I'll go that way, the place I'm getting them from can't get too pissed off, they're still getting my $.

Ok, let's talk intakes.
The goal is the coldest most O2 dense air.

The K&Ns dyno high because the good is open. In the real world with the hood closed, the heat from the engine, which is immense, is trapped under the hood. This then heats the air going into the intakes. That is why a lot of us call them WAIs, warm air intakes.
The stock boxes have ducts that pull air from in front of the radiator, outside the engine bay, which keeps inlet air temps down compared to the K&N typhoon. We suggest adding K&N panel filters for less resistance and sometimes "post MAF tubes" to replace the accordion hoses leading to the engine to combat turbulent air. (The smoother the airflow, the faster the air FLOWS)
The G3 does everything, it moves the cone/filter out of the engine bay, in front of everything, and the airflow is as smooth as possible.



That is why K&N Typhoon<Stock<stock with upgraded filters+pos MAFs<G3

Stillen's headers are worthless. Once you have ONE exhaust mod, the value of the headers is null and void.
The OEM headers are pretty damn good for what they are.
Their HFCs are good, they do the job just fine, my only issue with them is that I feel the inlet diameter isn't as big as it could be, restricting flow. The design using OEM gaskets is great though.
And their CBE, it is THE ONLY exhaust that weighs MORE than stock. But the weight is at the àss end of the car, which isn't bad IMO because the rear of the car is too light, worst part Of it is that it loses value to high hell because no one wants a heavier exhaust (hell, it's the exhaust I run, and I like it. I also have or have had almost every Stillen product)

As an FYI, mods do not add power in a traditional fashion.
The equation is NOT: CBE+HFC+Headers=gain (18+16+16=50 HP gain)
It's more like CBE+a couple+a couple=smaller gain (18+4+2= 24 HP gain)
Law of dimishing returns.

Thanks DE- I think I'll just go with berks products after checking out their website & get the G3 intake setup and throw the typhoon unit on craigslist. So now it's berk HFCs, berk CBE, Stillen G3' z1 intake manifold , z1 oil cooler, stock headers. I like that berk gives you all the gaskets needed for installation, Stillen doesn't - thanks for all the help. Last question, should I ask the installation shop to let me keep the stock exhaust for resale ( the guy told me they just scrap it, seems like a waste to me, someone out there could use it? ) I spoke with the other place in town and they will do the UpRev tune for $600 out the door. Looks like I've got everything lined up right now. All help is much appreciated.

Great choices. May I recommend getting Z1 header to cat gaskets, they're well worth the $30.
Please go to a meet and listen to different exhausts in person.

Also, buy used if you can, saves money and things like an oil cooler and exhaust don't really get worn. At LEAST shop our forum sponsors, some of their prices are so low I don't think they make money...

Resell all your parts here. There's a buyer for everything. Stock cats aren't worth much, but I'll take your set!


Tune is up to you (I have every bolt on and run without it), and it's better to get the "tuner" version, has better resale value and gives you better options.




Lastly, please, read the forum. I'm trying to be nice by helping you out vs telling you to use the search feature.

I have Stillen G3 CAI, Z1 plenum, Z1 HFC, Stillen CBE & Uprev. recently added the intake & HFC so she's going in for a tune this afternoon at Horsepower logic. I'll post the dyno results. It's a bit noisier in the cabin so I will be putting dynomat in the rear. Stay tuned my friends

Damn, yeah I forgot the z1 header to test pipe route. Proven power right there. Damn op might as well just get the z1 power pkg.

For anyone interested: i was at Horsepower Logic and had Jack make a few pulls.
The previous readings of 267WHP was with Sillen CAI & CBE on hi test pump gas.
Todays run showed 286WHP with the addition of Z1ported plenum & Z1 Hi Flow Cat.
Jack was not very high on the ported plenum. He said he had tested a bunch of em and none had shown any power gains. He said the prior pull was a bit under what other Z's run with the G3 & CBI. He also said 286 is a fairly normal reading for the mods I've done.
IMO...I would hold on the ported plenum and put the money toward the suspension.

How many is "a bunch" and I think your gains are good.

HFCs after you added a CBE isn't going to account for much. And when was your last dyno run? How was the weather in comparison to most recently?

We didn't get into specific's on the number he'd done. But he seemed a bit biased as soon as I mentioned it. He thought I waisted the $$$. Risk vs reward, I got no regrets. Not much else for me to do other than forced air & I'll hold on that.
As far as temp & humidity, hell it's south florida....it's alway 85+ 95% humidity
As I remember the last time on the dyno was Sept 2012. I will say today the humidity was a wee bit lower than usual as we had a front come thru.

Thanks for sharing your dyno results. Was there a huge difference in performance after the tune? I've been thinking about doing the CAI, intake manifold and test pipes.

Not too surprise on the intake manifold.

they probably went a bit light on the production intake manifd porting since they made a piece for their shop car.....

If anybody search more deeply into this. They will discorver the first pictures of that intake manifold had a lot of porting done to it by the runner entry vs some production unit that some guys showed picture which had barely any porting sign as in comparison of their first one.

Dont get me wrong they are probably doing it by safety of not scrapping the unit by making a hole it it and having to do some repair after....

hey Black_, from first hand knowledge the trick to these motors is getting cool clean air in & out as quickly & efficiently as possible. There seems to be a wide variety of opinions on headers. It seems headers will sacrifice low end power and you will loose some off the line ummff for top end performance. That's why I went with stock manifolds and the HFC's to the Stillen exhaust. Across the board everyone seems to agree (rare for any forum) the stillen G3 is the best intake and will give you good hp gains for the $$ spent. As far as the exhaust I liked the sound of the Stillen and the fact they add some weight in the *** end made sense since many people say the car is a bit light in the rear.
I went for the Z1 intake kinda blind as this my first go round with a plastic intake. I'm way more familiar with aluminum that has an e on it. If you don't know what your doing and start hacking away on your intake you can wind up going backwards and decreasing the air flow and power output. Unless you have gobs of experience or a flow bench that can measure air flow you just guessing. I figured what the hell for the $$ it's way cheaper than a motodyne & better than taking a stab in the plasitc.

Guys, i was wondering, as dyno tuning isnt option for me because there isnt tuners around here is Uprev e-tune good option?
I am almost done with all of the n/a mods and i will stay n/a (not going fi).
Any experience with e-tune?

I would venture to guess a ported manifold would really come alive with a set of camshafts.

Slapping one on without the ability (beyond bolt ons) to move more air is probably going to provide minimal gains, but synergistically speaking it would probably become critical in something beyond a basic bolt-on setup.

the VVEL can be as aggressive as an aftermarket cam is .. don't forget it get up to 280 duration and close to 11mm of lift (cant remember exactly on lift..)

I’m a little late on the thread, but does anyone still consider the R2C short ram intakes as an option? They pull air from the original factory vent hole in the radiator support, have filters with large flow area, smooth short intake tubes and air boxes that seal against the hood to reject hot air in the engine bay. Some early dynos (2009) showed them to produce more mid range power than the Stillen cai’s

I don't think they're an even half decent option. They won't actually PULL air from the factory holes.

If you want maximum NA power out of your Z, get the intake manifold and Z1 headers with test pipes. Yes you can get 320whp with just an intake, exhaust, test pipes and a tune, but if you want almost 340whp, you'll have to add headers and the intake manifold.

On a strictly cost benefit, intake and test pipes with a tune will get you 310whp and that's not bad.

That's I high number man, I was sitting at 300 WHP with Takeda cold air( Same as stillen) true dual catback' and FI RHFC's with out tune, No way was going to pick up 20 WHP with the tune, maybe 12-15. The heders you'll get close to 230WHP and till someone just bolts the manifold on with out anything else EX TP's or HFC's. Well never know if it makes any power? Maybe I missed it but a dyno of a I:E and manifold would be nice.