Which intake Should i get??
 

I know most of u went trou. this alreadty but plz help me out!!
I want intake for my z and not sure which one i should get...

I'm thinking K&N typoon or k&N drop in!

What ya think??

grammar <- use it (ok i'm done nagging)

most people are getting either the stillen Gen3(it shows the most gains but is harder to install and requires a tiny bit of cutting, the injen intake about the same but mounts the filter really low so if you get lots of rain or drive through big puddles you risk hydrolocking(=bad)

the cheaper and easier route that is showing some good results is the K&N drop in filters and the HPS post mass-airflow silicone tubes(which are backordered almost everywhere. also these will not sound like the stillen ones

either intake works better with air piped in from the fangs (check the DIY section)

and try to search more starting a new thread is easy but as you said it has been heard and said before so see the search in the top right? try "best intake"

which intake should i get (stillen gen 3 or k&n)???
 

Stillen Gen 3 for $510

OR

K&N for $306

Shop around for the GEN III's. The K&N's are not as effective as the Stillen's.

This is probably the most frequently asked questions on this site. If you search around for the threads, there are tons of comparisons.

I have the G3 intakes as a reference. I love them, wouldn't have any other intake system.

Neither, post MAF tubes and drop ins :rock:

Depends. Are comfortable removing the bumper (which is easy by the way) ? Go with the Gen 3's. Also requires some cutting of plastic pieces for the tubes. Gen 3's will def net you more gains. The K&N isn't a long tube/cold air intake and won't be any better than the stock air box & some drop-in filters performance wise.

Im thinkin the g3 but ima look up the tubes and drop ins (i have no problem removing the bumper i have practically takin apart every plastic piece on the car)

S T I L L E N. End of story. No questions asked. They look good too! :)

In on another thread with a massive display of cognitive dissonance.









For the record, post mafs with k and n is the way to go;)

I heard taking the intakes completely off is the way to go. Or, was it removing just part of it? Maybe taking the filters out? OMG what will give me the most powers!?

What do you think??!?

Stillen has shown to produce the most power gain... if you are going to go with K&N typhoon, then do a search for ModShacks fang vent system.

I heard if you replace the OEM filters with cotton balls you will gain around 8 hp to the wheels due to increased air flow

Bang for the buck, ease of installation = high flow panel filters + smooth intake tubes (cost is < $210)

Money to burn, better gains, but a bit more work to install = G3's (ideally found on sale, say < $400)

The short ram cone filter intakes don't have very good shielding, and may lose some whp over keeping the OEM airbox and just getting the high flow filter and tubes.

Now, now, don't be snippy. I've amended my recommendation.

I just need to borrow someones' G3's and do a back to back test...

read someone's post who had done a dyno test with the K&N SRI's, it made 6 whp on a heartbreaker dyno which would amount to I guess 9-10 whp on a standard dyno jet. Obviously that isn't the gains the G3's produce.. but if one were to do custom airboxes with a fang kit... what might that do? Though the price would be up there with the G3's by that time... you still may wind up with close to, or the same gains as the G3's.

Let's face it, cold air is what an intake is all about in the end... make it colder and make more power.

i have the stillen gen 3s and and did fang ducting to get air to the front of the filters. i also cut 2 modest holes from my front bumper and cut out sections of the styrofoam so that it would have somewhat of a "ram air" effect. i have just been too embarassed to post pics cuz i dont want to get flamed for cutting holes in the bumper. im personally happy with the set up though and dont think i would go with any intake system other than the stillens. outside air really seems to be the way to go sir

That's in the ball park for the tubes + high flow panel filters. I was just skeptical of the claimed difference for the G3's.

I'm less skeptical because I've recently found better evidence that it will make 8-10 more whp at various points in the rev range rather than 3-5, but in all probability the truth is probably somewhere in the middle (say, 6-8).

Anyway, because of that recent finding I've changed my conclusion on what price sounds (at least to me) reasonable for the difference in power one might hope to gain with the G3's over the modified stock set up (i.e. I used to say ~$250 was good deal, have changed that to ~$350 being a good deal -- retail is closer to $500!).

I still think bang for the buck, and ease of installation, you can't beat the panel filters and tubes, but the G3's defintely deserve more credit than I had been giving them (for whatever my 2 cents are worth to anyone...).

Regarding SRI's, I've seen more evidence that tend to either lose power or do no better than the modified OEM airbox, at least on this motor, and the underhood temps it produces.

Now with fang vents, you might see gains with an SRI on par with the G3's (that might be the ultimate bang for the buck arrangement), but, at least to my knowledge, that set-up remains largely untested.

Good, honest post. Here is the issue though. The Stillen's Injen's are king when it comes to gains because of the simple fact that they are getting the coldest air possible... period.

There is NO way to get air any colder than ambient for obvious reasons, so no matter what set up you have if you are getting outside air in... that's as good as it's going to get.

The only way I would know (and i'm no mechanic) would be to increase the amount of air going into the engine and of course we could do that with FI, but without it, I suppose maybe a filter that has a higher CFM, but then the question has to be asked... how much air can an NA engine actually take in? You can design the most elaborate system in the world, but that doesn't mean that all of the air is going to be able to be sucked in and used efficiently.

As far as bang for the buck, I agree the post maf tubes and better filters are going to be the best way to go. I don't know how much power the fang vents would add, but it would have to be at least a few hp I would imagine. Here the problem is yet again though, how can they be tested? You could put a fan in front of each fang and test it if you knew the mph of the air and how much it was cooling the engine, but then, how accurate would that be?

If the stock set up with fang vents would work... where would the power band be? Would the ram air be able to compete with the G3's at the top end with that air being forced and sucked in at the same time or would it fall off?

All questions that really cannot be answered in all reality. There are 2 ways to tell, a dyno and 1/4 trap speed... i'd be interested to see myself.

Just got mine G3s from another member for 265 had to wait a while though =)) just bc I was waiting on some used ones. But let me tell you everyone says they're the best and look good as well, can't wait to install them this weekend.

cool... I wish I could find a used set.

Jordo, I assume you have seen this Stu’s 370Z Dyno Tune | Specialty-Z The numbers aren't to bad, however there is no HFC's or TP's ... which as we all know is the most restrictive part of the Z... if one of the 2 were installed, it would likely be quite close to the set-up with the G3's would it not?

Both the OEM airboxes and the G3's take in air from the same place -- in front of the radiator. There's ducting to the OEM airbox, so it is just as much a "cold air intake".

Fang vents on the OEM airboxes wouldn't hurt, but it's unlikely to make THAT much of a difference.

The key difference on the G3's is most likley just that cone shaped filters tend to flow better than panel filters.

The SRI's usually lose the OEM ducting to the bumper (at least as far as I know), and are open on the top, so they may get more heat soaked. Fang vents for those might fix the problem.

Not sure if it would show on a dyno... it's an empirical question.


THAT is an awesome deal. Even if the gain over modified OEM was on the low side, that's only about $50 more bucks over the cost of tubes and panel filters. If I could find the G3's around that price, I'd happily experiment with the swap!

Those numbers look about right for those mods and a tune (compare with mine in the Proven Power Dyno Thread). Wish I could see the correction factor used tho'.

If you look at the difference between mine and the other car that dynoed last time (one of my recent posts) there were two places that showed pretty decent gains, everywhere else differences were fairly trivial, including the very peak values... that's why I have been skeptical of the value of G3's.

Still, the gains at points under the curve appear to be a bit greater than I thought, which is why I see them as being worth more $$$ than I had originally thought (but I still think ~$500 is too much!!! That's me -- I'm just being frugal :p ).

On the other hand, if you have the cash, don't mind pulling the bumper, love the sound, etc. etc. then by all means go for the G3's -- they do make more power than the modified airbox -- but they aint cheap.

I'd still like to see a definitive back to back comparison. If I can get hold of a set, I'll definitely do it to see what the gians are with everything else held constant (the compariosn between me and the other car wasn't a perfect one).

Jordo... interestingly enough, there is a group buy on the R2C's and a G37 guy did a back to back with only HFC's as his other mod and got 14 whp and 7 wtq. I will post the link if you are interested. With some cold air ducting... that would probably bring some pretty nice gains. I've always had a feeling about that set-up.

:ughdance:

Thanks, but I think I'll pass :tiphat:

I don't want to have to build the vents and ductwork, so if I experiment with another intake it will be the G3's.

Also, at the moment I'm shopping around for parts to upgrade my brakes :D

I was actually just asking if you were curious to see the post and such for the numbers sake.

Not necessarily true. Yes, they do pull "cold air" from the bumper but they also suffer from heat soak due to those big long metal pipes. From recent threads, dynos for the differences of the Post MAF Tubes and Drop Ins vs. G3's when you do other modifications (Exhaust...), makes the difference only a few HP. So if a few HP is worth $300 more to you, then go and get the G3's...

So, as mentioned earlier, if your looking to get every last HP, then G3's but bang for buck, MAF Tubes and Drop
Ins...

EDIT - Methodical, just realized you were in the last thread lol...

To OP - Here is a link to the other thread regarding the gains of Post MAF Tubes vs. G3's if your interested...

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...ins-worth.html

where did you see this?

just picked up a 2013 370. stillen gen 3's should fit right?

what are the gains after exhaust and/or other breather mods are on?

Ive seen dynos on here for the HPS tubes and drop in filters, after exhaust that net 8 - 10 hp. Thats good for after breather mods... To me, doesnt make sense to buy a stillen for similar gains and $100's more...

yes

Uhh...Israeli_Z's post was from 2010, I think he sold the Z.

Thread necro ftw

Uhhh..."necro" translation please.

for the cai intake guys: was it hard to remove the bumper?

all thread necro means is to try and get some use out of a thread after its dead.... i'll let u figure the rest out


i was apprehensive about this at first too, but its actually very simple. takes about 10 min with an extra set of hands to help

No.

It wasn't, but putting it back on definitely requires two people if you want a smooth reinstallation. It helps to jack to car up to get the bottom screws out too.

A second person does make it much easier, but jacking the car up to access the lower bolts is unnecessary... They are all easily accessible.