THIS is why you dont use RTV

LostSol · 12-15-2013, 10:37 PM

Depends on the quality of the shop......

1slow370 · 12-16-2013, 03:06 AM

even the best silicone is only good up to 500F so it will fail eventualy on manifolds and cats that can reach temps well above that.

synolimit · 12-16-2013, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LostSol

Depends on the quality of the shop......

Doesn't matter. No ones gonna pay 3 hours additional labor for a TP job.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370

even the best silicone is only good up to 500F so it will fail eventualy on manifolds and cats that can reach temps well above that.

RTV copper is 700*. It never failed me on a 1600* turbo, but I use a gasket with RTV on both sides.

Chuck33079 · 12-16-2013, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Aren't the directions put in on, tighten only a little, wait a few hours, then tighten to spec. After 24hrs its gtg. I can't see a shop doing this!

That's what I've seen on the back of every tube I've ever bought. Every time I followed directions it worked flawlessly. The only time RTV didn't work for me was when I was using it to redneck-engineer something and it was the wrong tool for the job.

critical · 12-18-2013, 03:11 AM

My high temp copper rtv gaskets are working, but I wouldn't mind adding those z1 gaskets to my wishlist

Thx for the idea

luigi90210 · 12-18-2013, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

Ummmmmm... Yeah they do... How else does it seal?

And my bet is that the RTV didn't have time to harden. Red RTV sets stronger than the copper stuff too from what I've been told

No they don't. The cat flandges are offset and the pipe physically sticks into the header. I'll upload a pic later today but when I took my cats off. No gasket

synolimit · 12-18-2013, 02:18 PM

Didn't you buy used? Looks like someone modded your car before haha. Looks like a crush gasket to me on that. But what do you think 9 and 18 are?

Chuck33079 · 12-18-2013, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Didn't you buy used? Looks like someone modded your car before haha. Looks like a crush gasket to me on that. But what do you think 9 and 18 are?

Yeah, that pic shows a metal gasket squished around the pipe.

synolimit · 12-18-2013, 02:24 PM

Here's the 09 PDF, same as the 13 pic above, gasket at every location.

Joepro · 12-18-2013, 05:03 PM

I have been using the COPPER as others have said the COPPER RTV for years. Both mating surfaces must be clean, real clean. Place a good sized bead on the TP flange, then tighten it up, but not torqued down. I let it sit for an hour, then torque it down, done. NO leaks long after gaskets start leaking. 8 bucks at advance for a tube enough to do a whole exhaust.

luigi90210 · 12-18-2013, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Didn't you buy used? Looks like someone modded your car before haha. Looks like a crush gasket to me on that. But what do you think 9 and 18 are?

OK so there is a metal crush gasket that only fits on the cat. There isn't anything like the pic you posted on there. I bought my car used but it was bone stock down to the air filter.

Staples · 12-18-2013, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by luigi90210

No they don't. The cat flandges are offset and the pipe physically sticks into the header. I'll upload a pic later today but when I took my cats off. No gasket

This is a donut style gasket. If you want a leak-proof design, this is the route to go. Unfortunately, I can only think of one company that makes aftermarket test pipes where the piping protrudes the flange to allow this type of gasket to be used, Motordyne ART pipes (newer version).

I've used RTV sealant by itself, with gaskets, I've tried Z1 metal gaskets (which are still on the car). They all have leaked on me, on the passenger side where the manifold bolts to the upper flange on the test pipe. This is on two different sets of aftermarket test pipes - as I thought it could be the way the pipes were produced and not allowing them to sit flat on the flanges to bolt down, causing them to leak.

The Z1 metal gaskets held up the best and the only way to actually tell it's leaking is by listening through a stethoscope, pretty minor. You can't see much black soot around the flanges as you could with the other gaskets and just using RTV sealant, so from the naked eye it looks fine.

I finally got a hold of a set of newer ART pipes that will go on the car once the weather gets warmer.

synolimit · 12-19-2013, 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by luigi90210

OK so there is a metal crush gasket that only fits on the cat. There isn't anything like the pic you posted on there. I bought my car used but it was bone stock down to the air filter.

Now its bone stock, wasn't before.

synolimit · 12-19-2013, 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Staples

This is a donut style gasket. If you want a leak-proof design, this is the route to go. Unfortunately, I can only think of one company that makes aftermarket test pipes where the piping protrudes the flange to allow this type of gasket to be used, Motordyne ART pipes (newer version).

I've used RTV sealant by itself, with gaskets, I've tried Z1 metal gaskets (which are still on the car). They all have leaked on me, on the passenger side where the manifold bolts to the upper flange on the test pipe. This is on two different sets of aftermarket test pipes - as I thought it could be the way the pipes were produced and not allowing them to sit flat on the flanges to bolt down, causing them to leak.

The Z1 metal gaskets held up the best and the only way to actually tell it's leaking is by listening through a stethoscope, pretty minor. You can't see much black soot around the flanges as you could with the other gaskets and just using RTV sealant, so from the naked eye it looks fine.

I finally got a hold of a set of newer ART pipes that will go on the car once the weather gets warmer.

Sounds like an over tightening problem. Without cheating and looking, tell me the torque spec? I bet you bent the header flange. You'll need a straight edge and you'll have to check the surface of it. In the manual for example it says the header flange to the head is out of spec if there is like 0.028" gap.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/2013/EM.pdf. Page 41 and 145

Staples · 12-19-2013, 01:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Sounds like an over tightening problem. Without cheating and looking, tell me the torque spec? I bet you bent the header flange. You'll need a straight edge and you'll have to check the surface of it. In the manual for example it says the header flange to the head is out of spec if there is like 0.028" gap.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/2013/EM.pdf. Page 41 and 145

That's what I thought too until I ran the stock cats after the fact without any problems / leaks whatsoever.

However, thinking about it, it would be pretty hard to bend the flange if you're using just a socket wrench and not an air impact wrench. Plus it wasn't gorilla torqued whatsoever.

12-15-2013, 10:37 PM	#16 (permalink)
LostSol Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Orlando Posts: 1,021 Drives: 2010 370z 40th A.E. Rep Power: 15	Depends on the quality of the shop...... __________________ 2010 Nissan 370Z 40th Anniversary Edition #762/1000 \| Forgestar \| Michelin \| Swift \| TRS \| Z Speed \| ARK \| Z1 \| Hawk \| CFE \| Evo-R \| GTMat \| Stillen \| Seibon \| Whiteline \| Pioneer \|

12-16-2013, 03:06 AM	#17 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7250	even the best silicone is only good up to 500F so it will fail eventualy on manifolds and cats that can reach temps well above that. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

12-18-2013, 03:11 AM	#20 (permalink)
critical A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Washington Posts: 1,252 Drives: 09' 370z 7AT Rep Power: 15	My high temp copper rtv gaskets are working, but I wouldn't mind adding those z1 gaskets to my wishlist Thx for the idea luigi90210 likes this. __________________ Quaife w/ gears \|Stillen Gen 3\|SOLD FI Resonated Test Pipes \|SOLD FI 18'' \| 25row Stillen Race \| Progress 35mm/25mm sways \| Swifts/Koni\|Volk G25's\| Stoptech SS lines\|\|SPL Front/Rear Arms\|

12-18-2013, 05:03 PM	#25 (permalink)
Joepro A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Athens ohio Posts: 1,213 Drives: Company car Rep Power: 33	I have been using the COPPER as others have said the COPPER RTV for years. Both mating surfaces must be clean, real clean. Place a good sized bead on the TP flange, then tighten it up, but not torqued down. I let it sit for an hour, then torque it down, done. NO leaks long after gaskets start leaking. 8 bucks at advance for a tube enough to do a whole exhaust. luigi90210 likes this. __________________ Swift\|Koni\|SPC\| FI CBE\|Z1\|Stillen\|Sbend\|Zspeed\|R/T Tuned\|523 whp\|458 tq\|10.5 psi\|SOLD Joepro's Journal\|Joepro's Boosted Performance Build \|Pittsburgh-Western-Pa-Ohio-Wv-Group

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