O2 sensor backups have been recommended for a couple years now. With the latest round of guys getting headers done, it's come back to the forefront with so many guys busting their O2 sensors. 2010 and below use different pre cat O2 sensors than 2011's and up. Biggest issue I ran in to is the guys who extended my O2 wires crossed some of the connections (also flip flopped the locations; Precat was in J tube, post cat was in free stream)... I went through 3 sensors before figuring out what they did. I don't believe you have to extend the sensors on these correct? Other common issues are stripping the threads or damaging the sensors it's self just trying to remove it through brute force or air tools. If you or a shop is doing these, make sure they are removed before attacking it with air tools.

I have trouble changing battery in smoke alarm in hallway. I leave this stuff to the professionals

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i agree with the o2 sensor.. my car was stuck at the shop for 5 days because of the o2 sensor... Canada was all out of stock.

btw,
is anyone having trouble with the exhaust hitting the rear sway bar? i had it readjusted twice now and changed all hangers. Seems like the test pipe and y pipe made the whole exhaust sit higher.

So nervous just waiting......and there is nothing on tv..

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Driving up at 12:30 to film the dyno tuning session. Considering my original dyno tune was jan 4th and 47 degrees I'm guessing being that its much warmer than that today I wont be dissapointed if the numbers arent great.


I guess we'll see....

Provided no problems or delays should have results up by around 3pm. Later

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Good luck man.

My results
 

it was indeed 90s today during the dyno however judging by numbers alone I'm a bit depressed.

my dyno from jan 4th this year, 47 degress with everything except z1 headers, AAM test pipes:

317whp, 266 wtq

today, 90s something:

321 whp, 257tq

so, gained 4 hp, lost 9 wtq

comparing these is difficult though because of the difference in temps. anyway though it is what it is:


I had to drive home in rush hour traffic so couldn't really get on it too much but some worthwhile observations:

the smell, didn't notice at all. I thought I was supposed to smell gas/fumes with test pipes, I guess you can slightly but nothing like I expected.

at idle and low throttle hard to even tell it sounds any different when it didn't have the headers or the test pipes. start laying on the throttle and it becomes noticeably cool sounding ;) I try to grab some internal audio tommorow for those interested.

Butt dyno - couldn't really get into much coming home so I can't really say yet. I don't like that my TQ numbers are down but just from driving eh, can't tell but I didn't really lay into it yet.

overall:
I'm bummed at the present time. I will take it up to capital drag this weekend and hope it stays in the 90s because I know before the headers and test pipes the heat affected the quarter from 12.9 108 to 13.2-13.5 from 105 down to 103 for the trap so if it stays this hot I should have a decent comparison judging how it does in 90s heat vs 70s and 80s at the track.

anyway sorry if I bum anyone out. right now I'm thinking probably not worth the investment but I'll give it some time to grow on me. It certains sounds better and surprisingly it isn't obnoxious unless you start really getting on it and even though not really unless noise frightens you ;)

not even gonna take them time to take a pic of the dyno, but if someone really wants to see it I will but I'm just not happy enough to put it up right now.

Peace

Dang. Maybe the revised Z1 versions are not 100% identical to Momentum? Any one else planning to dyno Z1s version?

Did it make power else where and not just peak hp/tq? I was pretty bummed about my tune and dyno in 86 degrees until I looked at the sheets. I made power everywhere and just a tad bit up top.

All of your dissatisfaction is due to the ambient temps. Go re-dyno in similar conditions for a true comparison.

wow, sounds sick! thx

what he said!

I believe we are all getting tied up in peak HP, myself included, when they told me I was just over 320 whp, I was shocked, I was expecting 330ish...My final run was at 82 degrees, and I also remembered that I had the m370 on, as do you I see, which lose peak HP. Seach around the forum, most say we would gain 5-10 hp from ditching the manifold. Peak HP is just a dumb number, how long is your car at the peak HP spot? I rather gain 10 whp under the curve vs 15 or even 20 peak hp...I plan on doing some power pulls on a local dyno in the fall without the m370, I bet my numbers will be darn good with cooler air, the "internet standard" is 1% power per 10 degrees, so to "estimate" your current power level with your 47 degrees number(lets say 40 degrees and 4 % difference), 321 x 1.04 = 333... bingo!

with that said, I crushed your tq # ;) just saying!

Man, I love the sound of that exhaust. Do you have a lot of rasp? I put ART's on my FI and it made it sound raw which I like, but I do get some slight rasp from them.

I haven't compared the sheets yet but I'll post it tommorow but it looks like maybe a build WTQ faster or in a steeper curve. I did drive it a bit to see how much louder under full throttle. not obnoxious but louder than before in the attached video. after driving a bit and stomping on it a bit it feels really good. whether faster who knows but it does feel good.

No rasp that I know of... But this is my first import and I'm a dummy when it comes to them. But I love the car itself. Thank you guys for the nice comments on the sound. Not really knowing what all is out there I was thinking maybe I would get ran in the dirt. 370z forum has some great people. Look forward to learning from you guys.

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just noticed my CF is SAE so thats supposed to mean that it's accounting for differences in temp, etc.....

I've no choice now but to stop caring because I'm certainly not having stuff removed.

as much as they say SAE accounts for things like that.. it doesn't really.

You can go back to the same dyno shop 3 days in a row and see variances in your numbers.

I've seen my stock numbers at 279, go to 292 with an exhaust go down to 280 with same exhaust go down to 260 (bad gas that time) etc. No mod changes.

If you truly want to always see changes, before they did the install, they should have done a dyno on that day, done the install and then try another dyno. Even then there will be slight variances (not sure where you are but the temps in GA can start out at like 65 in up till like 9 am and then skyrocket to around 92+ by 1-2pm)

you know I'm just getting more pissed by the moment because I think the tuner maybe should have spent a minute with me explaining some of this but what I got was "321, lost some torque" and that was it.

and the damn dyno sheet I got isn't the same format as the original so I can't even compare it properly.

this is the first time I can say that I'm not too pleased with AAM considering they've done alot of work on my car but this time I am mainly because they didn't take the time to explain the difference.

the car does run great, no complaints there, regardless of the dyno I'm happy with the work and the driving result. What I'm not happy about is I got less than 1 minute with the tuner and I thought that was supposed to be a bit of a two way conversation or at least something other than how it went.

I'm looking somewhere else for my BBK purchase and install.

Came here to say this.

Dyno again in December or January, until then, try not to hate life.

(I am in a similar boat, I put 2 grand worth of performance parts on the car and "lost" 20 HP. It's due to the tune needing an update and being balls hot, but it still bothers me, so I feel ya.)

Has anyone heard anything at all in regards to updates on the header with the HR flange?

Same here; I was bummed about my numbers until I looked at the sheets. It made power, just not peak. I'm fine w/ that; I'm dynoing again anyways :D

@Eighties Meta, what format is it in?

A few weeks or so.

It's supposed to be back from the welder soon and on to a test car... I don't understand why to be honest... ANY welder should be able to do it easily

Just out of curiosity,

What would YOU pay for a set of BRAND NEW, authentic Momentum Headers?

More than the Z1s? Less?

If you'd pay MORE, and you want to buy a set, PM me ASAP, offer will be on the table for only a few hours

I'm done. All this money for a car that is barely faster than a bone stock 370z. what a dumbass I am. Soon as the rattle is fixed, whether it's from the install or something else I'm trading it on something else that is turbo from the factory, an STI, a bmw 335i something along those lines. done with these cars.

you going to part out your quaife when you get something else?

I feel ya. Your not the only one.

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...-na-parts.html

But have you thought of boosting your z?

The chase for hp is an endless one and you will always want more. I realized that the car was fats enough for me to get into trouble already and i have never been in a situation where I thought to myself "I need more power right now'. Every time I think about turbo or whatever, I always remind myself of this. Having all that power is great, but how often will I get to use it. I'm more concerned with just making the car fun for me with mods like the 4.08 gears. Who knows, maybe some day my mind will change and I will have a second car and enough extra cash lying around to say f*k it, let's turbo or get a new stingray (or Z if it's a turbo 6 from the factory and is lighter but I doubt it). Until then, the car is plenty fast and fun now and I am happy with it. People who want huge hp gains either need to boost or should have gotten a different car to begin with.

I'd be interested in selling my quaife if the price was right

I don't NEED a quaife but if a disgruntled Z owner was going to get rid of ti at the right price, I might be interested and eighties meta seems pretty disgruntled...

I will be trading it and just eating it. I didnt want massive power. I wanted it to be right at 400 bhp or rougly 335-340 whp. No part out. The quaife was the best mod, spend the money, that is worth it.

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Dyno queens own supras....j/k...no but really...OK

If you are truly unhappy with the car as a whole, that is what you should do, but many here have already told you how to hit that number if that is really what you want...Ditch the m370 and dyno in the winter, problem solved.

How many NA z's have even broken 13 in the 1/4? You did it before the headers and retune, running high 12's in a fun street car I think is more than acceptable...this car is not cheap to mod, I think we all know that, but parts can be bought and re sold...I buy as much as I can used as long as it is in good shape, that save a ton of cash. Between tuning and "HP" mods I bet I have 4000k or a tad more in the car(including purchase price of the car I would say 32k overall with all mods, and for that price point I cannot find another newer car I would rather drive, but that is me) and at 322 whp, but oh well thus is life, still most stock z's put down what 270-280 bone stock on a dyno jet? That is roughly at 40-50 hp gain....here comes the boost argument... Cheapest kit is stillen which nets just over 400 whp, is not to terribly reliable(and looks like hell, sorry it does), and do not forget about supporting boost mods that are needed, its not as cheap as people think, to boost these cars properly I estimated 10k with a gtm 1.5 sc kit and supporting mods, tuning etc, that's with me doing the labor...even at that point how many cars will put down over 500whp for just over 40k(in my case I paid 26.5 for the car)) and still have all the Z has to offer?

I have a friend and co work that has over 15k in his civic si, and it put don 221 whp and run 14's, he has as much in his car as I do mine, but he LOVES his car and is proud of his mods and hard work, that is what it is about.


I could go on, but it seems you are using this "failure" (which it is not) as an excuse to ditch the car. If you are unhappy with the car, by all means, do it, just don't buy a friggin mustang, so tired of seeing them, and no I do not care they are faster, and BTW I know a guy with a new 5.0 with intake, exhaust flash and is only running 12.6-12.8 consistently...

and finally, the Z is NOT A 1/4 MILE CAR, buy suspension parts and make it a street go cart, a good set of sways,coils and tires you have a darn good handling car.

72 degree night at the drag. Two runs both 13.1 at 106. Somehow 2600 bukcs and backwards in performance and I could feel 3rd not pulling quite as good. Thats what did it. Thats why im so pissed off.

the rattle is also quite loud now. it has to be related to something with the headers and test pipes, otherwise its a huge coincidence. don't even wanna drive it, like driving a crapper with that rattle, it's loud enough people turn their heads to see whos crappy car is making that noise. oh just me....

if the labor wasn't so expensive I would without hesitation have my original headers and HFC put back on the car and and be done with it but I'm not paying a grand just to revert, they just gonna have to fix whatever is wrong.


With the lsd and springs and swaybars it still retains being a nice track day car but thats the only chance I keep it. Imay just keep and czve in and send my 1997 z-28 to lingenfelter or whatever the shop name and have it built back to glory.

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Sounds like its pulling the timing...Im no expert but me thinks you has a poor tune. If the rattle is a result of the install, I would be barking at those who put them on.

:iagree: and once you decide to run a tune, if your tuner isn't 100% proficient, a LOT of problems and oddities can be attributed to a not perfect tune

I hope that's the case because otherwise, this is pretty disappointing. I think everyone is hoping for at least 15-20whp after all this hype and it needs to not be CAI peak only whp. Where are all the dynos from recent people who ordered these with the DE HFCs or TPs? Would love to see before and after dynos on those if possible, not just peak numbers.

Here's my post to a reply in my own thread (I got genuine Momentum headers)
EDIT: My car is out of commission and will be for a good amount of time, so don't expect to see the dyno sheets in a week, but I hope at latest it'll be a month

Well, I will have a more realistic dyno.

I had "full bolt ons" before, Stillen G3 intake, Megan TPs, Stillen CBE, Stillen UD pulley, and no tune

NOW I'll have the Stillen G3 intake, Megan TPs, Stillen CBE, Stillen UD pulley, no tune, and the difference is only the wrapped Momentum headers, 99% of mods have decreasing returns, so lets see how good these things really are


And yeah, the collector is nice and polished, all the insides of the tubes are sanded too.

Can't wait to see your results since I think most people are in a similar boat with most bolt-ons already and are wanting to see what these headers will do a modded Z, not a stock one. Do you plan to get a tune as well? I just thought there would be more people with these by now since they seem to be the hot item right now. Surprised to not be seeing more reviews on them.

The only thing mine didnt have was tp or headers. The hfc were relaced with the de tps. Anyway....others, good luck.

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what's the difference between the Z1 and momentum headers? looks like they aren't living up to the hype

I don't think there is a difference. From what I've read, they're basically copies of the Momentum ones since Momentum went out of business.